table leg size

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Building a welding table with a 3.5' x 5' x 3/4" top. The top weighs in at over 500lbs. Any opinions on the wall thickness for the legs? I'm looking at 3 x 3@3/16; 2.5 x 2.5@3/16; or 2 x 2@3/16.......Does anyone feel like 1/8 thickness would be fine?If the price was not a consideration, would you prefer 3 x 3@1/8 or 2 x 2@3/16? I'm not opposed to overbuilding....The base is going to be very simple: a rectangle for the table to lay on with a single cross member supporting the middle of the table, four legs, and a crossmember at each lower end with a single member connecting them down the middle.
Reply:If cost was not an issue I would use some good steel and would have a ground 4' x 8' top 40" thick that has been pocket milled for a chair.Last edited by riceburner; 05-04-2011 at 06:15 PM.
Reply:3" x 3" x 3/16" if price is not a consideration. Make it a sturdy SOB.
Reply:Heck yeah if price difference is negligable go with the thick material.  If you decide one day to set an engine or other big item you'll be glad you went big in the beginning.  I would look around here and a couple of other forums to get some ideas to incorporate into yours.  The reciever boxes for interchangable tools is very popular. leg jacks to level and allow it to roll is another.  And there are tons of pics of some very functional and well thought out tables that were built cheap and have some interesting inovations in them as well.  Just a thought while your considering the legs...BobI'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys?  Trade?
Reply:Plenty of great info here.....in fact, I've read every single post and reply under the search terms "welding table"......so I'm not gonna flog the topic any more than necessary.That research and input has lead me to a straightforward design...and most of my questions were answered there. The simplest design criteria seems to be: Build as strong as possible. So I'm leaning heavily toward the 3 x 3@3/16.I'm relatively new to metalworking, especially welding. I find the idea of having some holes in the top for clamping to be very appealing. I was about to have the yard punch the holes for me with their mag drill.....but I've decided to hold back and work with the table for a while to see what I might like or need. I can always punch the holes later right where I need them.I unloaded that plate from my truck today.....geeez......a forklift or crane would have been nice - not happening in suburbia. I really didn't appreciate how heavy the thing was. I really would rather have had the frame done so I could just pull the top over it from the truck....but the price was really good and I didn't want to miss it. I really have no idea how I'm going to transition the top from leaning against a wall to the frame.....more creative rigging I suppose.
Reply:Originally Posted by jtbinvalrico I really have no idea how I'm going to transition the top from leaning against a wall to the frame.....more creative rigging I suppose.
Reply:If you have a Harbor Freight near by, get a 20% off coupon and purchase a 2 ton shop crane for 167.99 +tax.  Shop cranes work great for safely maneuvering heavy objects by yourself.
Reply:Not a bad idea.....either of them. I'll have plenty of help and rigging on hand.
Reply:I designed this table for a former employer when I worked there.  The top is 3.5 or 4 inch thick steel and I think it was 3' x 10'.  The box tubing is all 2x2.  If my memory serves me right, I designed it as 1/8" wall, but then we had a bunch of 1/4" wall, so that's what the frame got made out of.  Based on column buckling calculations, it could hold something ridiculous like 20 tons.   Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by dbotos..... it could hold something ridiculous like 20 tons.
Reply:Mine is 5x5 0.25 wall but it was drops from a job at work so yes it is overkill.  My top is 54x32 and 1" thick and weighs about 500 lbs too.  The table is about 30" tall.  Think about rolling it around and moving it once its built.  I used a HF 1 ton shop crane to set the top.  It worked but it was kinda scary.  Going to build a bigger shop crane soon. Attached Images
Reply:I would think that the 2x2x3/16 would be plenty strong.  But for the cost difference i would use 3x3x3/16, and for piece of mind when you want to plunk something "really heavy" up there.  I did a QUICK search for costings and this is what i came up with for 12' of material.2 x 2 x 3/16 = $852-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 3/16 = $1003 x 3 x 3/16 = $132To me whats $40 for something that will be used FOREVER?
Reply:85cj7......that is one stout table. I like the caster set up. Do you just turn the solid feet up with a wrench to have the wheels down?.....I also like the cut ins from the side for clamping.I'm looking at about 39 feet of square tube.....the 3 x 3 @3/16 would run me $257 and the 2 x 2 @3/16 would be $157.
Reply:I would just go with 1/4" angle..Tie it together with 1/4"X1" flat stock about 10"up from the floor..I put over 2 tons on mine once in awhile.......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by jtbinvalrico85cj7......that is one stout table. I like the caster set up. Do you just turn the solid feet up with a wrench to have the wheels down?.....I also like the cut ins from the side for clamping.I'm looking at about 39 feet of square tube.....the 3 x 3 @3/16 would run me $257 and the 2 x 2 @3/16 would be $157.
Reply:There is an old saying : There is never enough money to do it right the first time, but more than enough to do it right the second time. I say go for the gusto and make it stout as possible since money is not an issue and do it right the first time. You will be happy you did.We are on our way to being farmers! Our site is always under construction so check back often for updates.  http://www.philosophyfarmstyle.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterI would just go with 1/4" angle..Tie it together with 1/4"X1" flat stock about 10"up from the floor..I put over 2 tons on mine once in awhile.......zap!