16 Gauge to 3/16ths 6011 tips

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I had to try welding some 16 gauge sheet to 3/16ths steel on a trailer for the fender the other day in the vertical position.  I had been welding all day using 3/32 6011 at 55-65 amps DC.  When I tried the sheet lap joints to the trailer the sheet material was melting away.  Any pointers?  I couldnt go much lower than 50 amps or the rod would stick.  I am wondering if going to a smaller rod would have worked wonders?
Reply:You could try some 1/16 6013 or 6011 run dc straight polarity and keep your heat on the 3/16 side and wash it over quickly to the sheet, run vert-down.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:16 gauge is tricky for 3/32" 6011, you could try to pull back and let the filler blob off the electrode or go to 7014. The high iron content in 7014 allows for instant re-strike (as fast as mig at tacking).You could make a bunch of tacks and then do as DesertRider33 mentioned above directing the heat to the 3/16 and washing towards the 16ga vertical down.Matt
Reply:Matt,A small disagreement with you.  Using a bunch of tackwelds is not a good idea.  The OP is better off using the smaller 1/16" 6010/6011/6013 electrode, DCEN, and welding 1 continuous bead vertical down.  This is a trailer fender,and there's already been 1 recent posting about having a weld fail and a fender fall off of a trailer.  Barring that, a TIG welder would allow for much better heat control and would enable the welder to avoid burning holes in the sheetmetal.A bunch of tack welds makes for many more opportunities for a hidden defect that will accelerate fatigue failure in the weld.  1 continuous weld will likely be a higher quality weld that is less likely to fail.Fenders suffer from a high level of cyclic loading from vibrations as they go down the road.  Add to this the fact that many are not properly supported with bracing, and it's a perfect recipe for failure.  A weld overtop of a bunch of tack welds is likely to have lots of lack of fusion defects, where the top weld fails to remelt the tacks completely and fully incorporate them into the final weld bead. Originally Posted by Matt_Maguire16 gauge is tricky for 3/32" 6011, you could try to pull back and let the filler blob off the electrode or go to 7014. The high iron content in 7014 allows for instant re-strike (as fast as mig at tacking).You could make a bunch of tacks and then do as DesertRider33 mentioned above directing the heat to the 3/16 and washing towards the 16ga vertical down.Matt
Reply:Well that brings up a new question but along the same lines.  I am going to start trying TIG for the first time.  One thing I plan on TIG welding once I am up to speed is 1/8 hinges to 1/4 plate (lap).  When you TIG weld do you set the amperage for the thicker material, thinner material or dead middle.  Direct heat more towards the thicker or stay central etc.  I am open to amperage ideas and TIG setup for such a scenario.  I assume I can use my 3/32 Thor Tungsten8 cup?Amperage say 180?Filler 1/16th or 3/32 ISH?Now before you go blasting me I do plan on getting loads of seat time on scrap prior to this project but curiousity is killing me.  I plan on going bac to that fender with TIG too once competent on the process.  For now it is solid enough to stand on and we riveted it as well to be extra sure but as mentioned the defects may pop up over time.
Reply:Miller Electric's website has a good online tool for getting welding parameters.  Check there for a starting point.Set your heat for the heavier material, and keep the heat on the thicker side of the joint.  Wash the puddle onto the thinner material.I would start about 120-140 amps max on the machine, and moderate with foot pedal or finger tip control from there.3/32 tungsten is fine and I would go with either 3/32" or 1/8" filler.  I don't like using really thin filler on thick base metal.  You've got to push a lot of wire into the puddle to get it to fill up properly.  Match the filler metal to the thickness of the base metal.  That way they're metaling at about the same rate.... Originally Posted by edjamakatedWell that brings up a new question but along the same lines.  I am going to start trying TIG for the first time.  One thing I plan on TIG welding once I am up to speed is 1/8 hinges to 1/4 plate (lap).  When you TIG weld do you set the amperage for the thicker material, thinner material or dead middle.  Direct heat more towards the thicker or stay central etc.  I am open to amperage ideas and TIG setup for such a scenario.  I assume I can use my 3/32 Thor Tungsten8 cup?Amperage say 180?Filler 1/16th or 3/32 ISH?Now before you go blasting me I do plan on getting loads of seat time on scrap prior to this project but curiousity is killing me.  I plan on going bac to that fender with TIG too once competent on the process.  For now it is solid enough to stand on and we riveted it as well to be extra sure but as mentioned the defects may pop up over time.