Walk the cup advice :-)

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Ok so I have welded in just abut every industry except pipe.  Siemens is hiring and I would like to do good on their pipe test.  I also want to be good at walking the cup.Here is a pic of my 6G 1” thick coupon where I did the root no with a couple of spots of LOP.  My questions:1. Is this a type of joint that would be TIG welded, it seems maybe a little impractical since the large groove would be faster to use another process.2. I have a root pass, and 3 other layers and I’m starting to have a problem walking the cup after this last layer.  Not sure if my cup is too small because it doesn’t want to sit very good on the sides.3. When I get to the cap pass it seems that it may be difficult to walk it around without dipping my tungsten.  Do you do a full circle or just sort of move it side to side.  I have watched a bunch of those videos the "home made twin turbo the "right" way?” and can’t seem to really see a good view because nobody shows it under a hood where the cup is at.I feel I can make a great bead up until I run out of groove for the cup to rest on.  I could not walk it but I’m not really good a completely free handing it, at least it is really hard to have my hand not resting on something and that pipe is going to be pretty hot to rest a finger or hand on.  So if I could rest my hand on the pipe I would be fine, but I know you guys walk it all the way out. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by arcboyOk so I have welded in just abut every industry except pipe.  Siemens is hiring and I would like to do good on their pipe test.  I also want to be good at walking the cup.Ibut I’m not really good a completely free handing it, at least it is really hard to have my hand not resting on something and that pipe is going to be pretty hot to rest a finger or hand on.  So if I could rest my hand on the pipe I would be fine, but I know you guys walk it all the way out.
Reply:a guy over at weldingtipsandtricks.com (no plug for the site btw.) preaches about the "tig finger" may be worth checking out. Beyond that... you are currently speaking some dialect of ancient greek to me. good luck with your test!
Reply:Originally Posted by slow6ia guy over at weldingtipsandtricks.com (no plug for the site btw.) preaches about the "tig finger" may be worth checking out. Beyond that... you are currently speaking some dialect of ancient greek to me. good luck with your test!
Reply:The chain grip brace idea is a very good one!
Reply:I'll check those out. I still want to know what to do to cup walk it better. I probably should have put this thread in the process topics instead. So if someone wants to move it feel free :-)
Reply:As you add layers, you need to go bigger on your cup size. I like a small cup for the root, maybe a 4 or 5, and go up as you move out. As long as you're in the groove your cup should ride both sides. To cap I like a fairly big cup, an 8 or so. It will give you a better walk than a small cup, more forward motion as you work it, if that makes sense...the bigger cup will help you keep from dipping, too, as your tungsten is farther away so you can get a better angle into the pipe. Take a grinder to your pipe surface to get a nice clean outer wall, it will help your cap wet in better at the toe. Clean the ID with a flapper wheel, too. It will make your root much nicer. Your pics look pretty good so far...stay with it!
Reply:Originally Posted by welds4dAs you add layers, you need to go bigger on your cup size. I like a small cup for the root, maybe a 4 or 5, and go up as you move out. As long as you're in the groove your cup should ride both sides. To cap I like a fairly big cup, an 8 or so. It will give you a better walk than a small cup, more forward motion as you work it, if that makes sense...the bigger cup will help you keep from dipping, too, as your tungsten is farther away so you can get a better angle into the pipe. Take a grinder to your pipe surface to get a nice clean outer wall, it will help your cap wet in better at the toe. Clean the ID with a flapper wheel, too. It will make your root much nicer. Your pics look pretty good so far...stay with it!
Reply:Does anyone have a picture of the 'chain grip'? I would like to make myself one.
Reply:Do not rest your hand.... It's not doable, and not going to cut it, and it'll get you bounced from the test IMO....You cannot rest an arm or hand in tig.Start to finish:knife edge @ around 37.5 degrees, No landing3/32nd gap, Use 1/8th fillerTurn it up 10 and run the hot pass.Turn it up more and run the fillers.Cap for 6g is 3 stringers. bottom to topThere are two ways that I know of to run the root.1) walk it, weeave it with a smaller cup that fits inbetween the grooves nice.1a) Lay your wire in/on top of the groove and follow it, weaving the tungsten back and forth and making sure to break down the walls.KEEP THE TUNGSTEN POINTED DOWN! Do not lift it up. Your wire will run away from you.Tungsten always down.2) Freedhand the root by keep the tungsten on the wire and simply follow it. Slight weave freehand to make sure your breaking down the walls. Don't worry abotu feeding the wire through the pipe...Not needed 99% of the time IMO and a little too advanced for now. Just lay the wire in the groove, keep the tungsten on the wire. Don't lift up, make sure the walls break down.TIP: YOU want the tungsten out further than normal to run the root. As far as walking the cup lol.. Start at the beginning.. You need to take a week to learn the basics... Turn the power off, take the tungsten out and learn to walk the cup. Put the metal in a 5g position and learn. Learn the correct pressure to put on the cup. Learn not to slip. It's ****ing tough and may take a while....just to learn the pressure points.Then in 1G learn to run it with just tungsten and power.Then learn to lay the wire and run it.Then learn to feed it.Then learn to perfect it.Then learn 5GThen maybe think about 6G.On the underside you hold the torch differently. Angled towards you LOL...then switch it to regular on the next wire.You can make your wrist motion like an infinity symbol for a larger weave. Best way I can describe it is grab a ratchet and lock it into something and turn it. Or ratchet it.That back and forth motion is the basic motion to have a tight weave.Go slow, TIG is slow.....Painfully slow at times.Keep you tungsten stupid sharp.Watch this guy for cues....He's the freaking truth...[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G11Osma3bWc[/ame]Last edited by jsm11; 07-01-2011 at 01:21 AM.1981 Lincoln SA 200Miller Trailblazer 302gMiller 211 Mig Welder w/ AutosetI'm learning to stick metal together
Reply:Originally Posted by arcboyOk so I have welded in just abut every industry except pipe.  Siemens is hiring and I would like to do good on their pipe test.  I also want to be good at walking the cup.Here is a pic of my 6G 1” thick coupon where I did the root no with a couple of spots of LOP.  My questions:1. Is this a type of joint that would be TIG welded, it seems maybe a little impractical since the large groove would be faster to use another process.2. I have a root pass, and 3 other layers and I’m starting to have a problem walking the cup after this last layer.  Not sure if my cup is too small because it doesn’t want to sit very good on the sides.3. When I get to the cap pass it seems that it may be difficult to walk it around without dipping my tungsten.  Do you do a full circle or just sort of move it side to side.  I have watched a bunch of those videos the "home made twin turbo the "right" way?” and can’t seem to really see a good view because nobody shows it under a hood where the cup is at.I feel I can make a great bead up until I run out of groove for the cup to rest on.  I could not walk it but I’m not really good a completely free handing it, at least it is really hard to have my hand not resting on something and that pipe is going to be pretty hot to rest a finger or hand on.  So if I could rest my hand on the pipe I would be fine, but I know you guys walk it all the way out.
Reply:Wow, he's really working that torch!...I can't go that fast...
Reply:Go to the biggest cup you can on the cap.  Then all you need to do is barely rock it side to side.  Remember, you don't need to crank down on the thing, just enough pressure to keep it in contact with the pipe's surface.
Reply:I’m just outside Charlotte, NC so If someone lives near me I’ll be glad to get any help :-)I have tried going clockwise and counterclockwise and it doesn’t seem to matter.  I seem to be trying different locations of filler and smaller and larger circles.Its kind of hard to tell but do you even do circles?  Looks like more of a progressive side to side half circle thing.Supe, says barely rock it side to side.  Is this just on the cap or do you do it in the root and hot passes also?Thanks, these are all really helpful tips.I think I can do just need some bigger cups and more practice.
Reply:What does API or ASME say about bead width?  D1.1 for SMAW is usually 2.5 times the diameter and has limitations for FCAW for each position like vertical has a max single pass of 1/2"