How would you fix this?

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I am a novice welder, mostly teaching myself and learning from experienced welders on this site.Recently, I started a project using rusty 2" pipe which involved cutting a bunch of saddles and welding the pipe together.I used a plasma cutter to cope the ends of the pipes and a coping template I found online to trace the pattern.  The rest was done with a grinder.After coping the ends of all seven pipes I started welding them together and found that on one of the pipes I had missed the mark and cut it off center.  All the rest of the pipes fit well enough to weld.I had already welded one end of the pipe to the frame and then fit it up to the other side and noticed the poor fit.  There was a gap on both sides big enough to stick my little finger in and about an inch long.I could have cut off the welded side and redone it, but I chose to weld it up.One of the best ways for me to learn things is to watch an experienced craftsman fix problems that crop up.  What would you have done to fix this problem - other than starting over?
Reply:Not knowing any details, I would probably cut the pipe square and rotated the end ,and weld it up.
Reply:Didn't think about that.  I assume you mean somewhere in the middle?  How would you make up for the kerf?
Reply:It took me so long to understand what the problem here is.What are you making?
Reply:This is just a platform 18" off the ground to hold a large round bale of hay.  There are sides to it that extend out an an angle just to keep the bale from rolling off.  The platform has four legs, each 20".  There are two side rails and 5 rails in between them that the bale sits on.  It was one of these 5 that I had cut wrong.
Reply:Originally Posted by mshearneDidn't think about that.  I assume you mean somewhere in the middle?  How would you make up for the kerf?
Reply:little finger an inch long? That's nothing. I would take a 1/8 7018 and beat the flux off, then use it like a TIG wire in my stick rod puddle. You would be surprised how quick you can fill a gap like that.
Reply:Need picture(s) with this question to help you better.   I'm really slow. Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:SuperArc, I appologize, but if I don't take a picture right away of a weld that I don't like, then it's a gonner.  This project is already in the pasture doing its job (although I need to bring it back in and make the sides spread out more - it pinches the bales too tightly now).Anyway, if I could describe the problem better:  imagine that you have a 2" pipe that you have coped and are going to weld it to another 2" pipe.  Then, rotate it about 20 degrees to one side.  Now, the only part of the pipe that touches the uncut pipe are the sides of the saddle.  This will leave a sizable gap on the sides shaped like the coping cut.As far as using the 7018s like a TIG, I think that is something I would like to practice with.  But, I don't normally keep a lot of these around since it's so humid here and I don't really do that much welding.  Mostly on hand are 6011, 6013, 7014s (various sizes each).  I just remembered that I found a tin of opened 1/8" 7018s that has been in the barn for at least 10 years.  If I'm going to knock the flux off, these should suffice.  Not real sure what I would use to weld them with though - probably 3/32" 6011?
Reply:Yeah, your best  is 6010 (DC) or 6011 (AC or DC) for those gaps. Weld layers, chip the slag and weld on top of your last bead.   Repeat until the gap is closed.   It will probably look ugly, unless you're CEP, DSW, Lanse or Jody.   :. But.......  It will work to close that wide gap. Again, I didn't say it would look pretty.  You could then put multiple cap passes on it with 7018's just to make it look nicer.  I doubt an angle grinder would get into that joint nicely to smooth it all out.  Just allow longer cooling times in between the weld beads.   Someone here with more experience will probably have a better idea however. Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:This is actually pretty close to how I chose to deal with this - except I used 6013s.  Bad choice of rods - too much slag.  But I wanted something that was high deposit and low penetration.  Maybe a 7014 would have been better.  Still wouldn't be able to get to the slag inside.
Reply:6013 is fine.  Keep a tight arc and slow travel to build the height of th bead