Suggestions for steel table that can be disassembled

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I've got a small 3x5" cnc table in my basement. It's currently bolted to some wobbly aluminum stilts and I'd like to get something a bit more rigid. best case would be a fully welded frame, but I can't fit that down the bulkhead. I was thinking 1x3 for the top so that I could simply bolt my 3x3 extruded aluminum cnc frame to it. 3x3 legs and 2x2 cross members. What's the best way to build this so that I can assemble it in my basement? Attached ImagesESAB Heliarc 252
Reply:Ok I have to ask.. You'll cut with a CNC plasma in the basement but won't weld the frame there? Am I missing something?.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWOk I have to ask.. You'll cut with a CNC plasma in the basement but won't weld the frame there? Am I missing something?
Reply:sleeve and boltsidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:Ahhh!!! Silly me, when you said CNC table, my mind added plasma since this is a welding site. Opps. See I was missing something! .No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by prop-doctorsleeve and bolts
Reply:cut table in half long ways and sleeve inside tubing or outside tubing drill through and run bolts thru and tighten only way to make it portable is make it break down drill holes for top and counter sink bolts this is if you do not want to weld solididealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:ok. based on the 3D drawing you've got, this it what I would do. I would weld the table up like it were two coffee tables. with the lower coffee table having a smaller section of square tubing coming out of the top of the legs, say 3"-6" out. The top of the top table should be on top of the legs as opposed to welded to the sides of the legs. This increase strength and reduces stress on the welds.I don't know what size door you're trying to fit through, or the overal height you're trying to make the table, but most people are working with anywhere from 32"-40" of height. Either way if the veritcle is cut in half, than it will fit through any door you can. If the clearences are tight than you can always bolt the sleave into both the top and bottum, instead of welding it to the bottom "table"The benefits of this design are 1) you've got fully welded top to bolt your CNC to. 2) you're able to have a shelf on the bottom half. 3) Bolts are only optional. If the legs are sleaved together there is no need for the bolts, as the forces on the legs will be verticle and gravity will be holding them together. the sleaves will pervent the top table from coming off the bottom table if it's bumped. 4) you're able to get it in and out of your basement as needed.Last edited by ThorsHammer; 09-22-2011 at 12:11 PM.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by prop-doctorcut table in half long ways and sleeve inside tubing or outside tubing drill through and run bolts thru and tighten only way to make it portable is make it break down drill holes for top and counter sink bolts this is if you do not want to weld solid
Reply:what is the wall thickness of the 2x2? if it's 1/8"(.12) than you'd get 1.75x1.75 OD square to slip inside. no need to cut anything beyond the length you need.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerwhat is the wall thickness of the 2x2? if it's 1/8"(.12) than you'd get 1.75x1.75 OD square to slip inside. no need to cut anything beyond the length you need.
Reply:based on the gear shown in your sig, the project, it's use, and the carpenters mentality of "cut to fit". I wouldn't worry about it to much. just stick to the thin stuff and stay away from trailers. at least welding on them.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Also, if you don't have the right size sq tubing for the sleave, two peices of angle Iron on oposite corners will work if it's not something that needs to be structural. If you went with my suggestion, it would work. If you're cutting horizontal peices, than I'd make sure you're using the right size sleave for the joint, and then sleaved bolt holes.on my suggestion the "sleaves" (cause I can't think of a better word to use) are just there to prevent lateral movement. there is not structural need for them.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:This is how I would do it.  You could actually make each post with lugs on it.  Then the length and width would be adjustable.  It would easily break down for transportation and I think it would be pretty rigid.  It looks like you are using Sketchup, so I included the link to the drawing on 3D warehouse.  It will probably be easier to see that way:http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehou...b97bd228fca721
Reply:Originally Posted by kazlxThis is how I would do it.  You could actually make each post with lugs on it.  Then the length and width would be adjustable.  It would easily break down for transportation and I think it would be pretty rigid.  It looks like you are using Sketchup, so I included the link to the drawing on 3D warehouse.  It will probably be easier to see that way:http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehou...b97bd228fca721
Reply:why do you need the top to be able to be adjustable? if you're bolting your CNCto the top then it's going to be a perminant fixture. if you need support for a longer peice of wood than work supports would probably work just fine. If in the future you want to upgrade the table you could always cut the horizontals and and and the appropriate lengths of material with the appropriate sized sleave.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:You could just put tabs on the ends and bolt a piece of MDF for the top.  I think it would be really solid...and MDF is cheap.
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerwhy do you need the top to be able to be adjustable? if you're bolting your CNCto the top then it's going to be a perminant fixture. if you need support for a longer peice of wood than work supports would probably work just fine. If in the future you want to upgrade the table you could always cut the horizontals and and and the appropriate lengths of material with the appropriate sized sleave.
Reply:how about aluminum extrusion for the table?tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Originally Posted by brucerhow about aluminum extrusion for the table?
Reply:I would just use angle iron for the legs and bolt that to the outside corners of two rectangular welded frames for your top and your shelf/brace."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:nothing wrong with that design. what do you use to lock it down and keep it from rolling on you?There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger