Benefits of more expensive helmets.

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Discuss. I have the rebate/freebie that came with my TA 181, but honestly, all I do is Tig, and I cain't see shee-ite. It's either too dark, or blowing my eyes out! Really would like to find an auto with a big viewing lens that goes down to 8 as well...Opinions on this important topic?Motorboating...in the Cleavage of the Tetons
Reply:There are tons of post on AD helmets. I like the Miller Digital Elite.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:im just getting one that I feel most comfortable in and can lay a sexy tig weld.If the conversation isn’t money, then I’ll see you later.
Reply:Just be careful. Once you find a hood you like then anything else will just suck. When I first got my TIG I decided to upgrade from my Harbor Freight auto darkening hood. My LWS had a barely used returned Radnor Crusader 54Vi that I got a really good deal on. All in all it's a pretty good helmet. At my job there was a shop hood that sucked. It was auto darkening but only one darkness and it took me a while to realize that it was the reason I had so much more trouble welding at work. I decided to get another helmet and I wanted something a little nicer than my Radnor. After a little research I decided on a Speedglas 9100 hood. My Radnor had the large viewing window so I decided to get the Speedglas. I found a good deal on a barely used hood on ebay and decided to go for it. I wasn't paying enough attention to notice that the window size was the difference between the 9100X that I got and the 9100XX that I wanted. When I got the hood I was blown away. Compared to all hoods I had used before the Radnor was amazing when it came to visibility but after using the Speedglas I could barely stand using the Radnor. The Speedglas also has a much lighter tint when it's not darkened. This is great for welding in low  light. The smaller window never bothered me one bit. I could see maybe in some strange odd position some day maybe it would come in handy. The 9100X has a decent sized window and more than enough for me. After all once you start welding you really need to see about two square inches of surface. On top of that the head band was 10 times more comfortable. After a while the Radnor started to hurt my head. I can wear the Speedglas up or down all day long. Another detail that I quickly noticed is the Speedglas tension knobs don't change. The Radnor and many other hoods have a tendancy to tighten one side and loosen the other so you are constantly needing to adjust them. The Speedglass is good for days. Now I can't stand the Radnor which new was a $300+ hood and anything less than that is just about unacceptable hehe. I'm spoiled now. If you plan on doing a lot of welding, get a good hood. You won't regret it.Lincoln precision TIG 275Millermatic 140 MIG
Reply:miller performance or the elite  or jackson nexgen or truesight other then that i prefer over them all a nice glass quality gold lens the ADs can not touch the clarity of a quality gold lensMiller Xmt 350Lincoln Ln-25Ahp 200xSmith Gas Mixer AR/HTig is my Kung FuThrowing down dimes and weaving aboutInstagram http://instagram.com/[email protected]
Reply:I have the Miller Digital Elite and the Speedglass 9100. I like the Miller best for TIG. The X-mode is the $#!t.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:Optrel E680 is a very very good helmet, people always forget to mention them.Miller Maxstar 200 SDPiperliner #10 Gold
Reply:Originally Posted by Silicon-basedI have the Miller Digital Elite and the Speedglass 9100. I like the Miller best for TIG. The X-mode is the $#!t.John
Reply:No pro here,  but I learned the hard way that not being able to see the arc cause a 9 is too dark is from either alot of ambient light entering the back of the helmet or needing a cheater lens.  Not sure how old you are, but when you start having problems seeing close up, your pupil tries to constrict a bit to help you focus.  So your pupils don't dialate to let the light in and you can't see the dark puddle cause you can't see close either.  If this sounds like you, order a cheater lens, wear a hoodie sweatshirt over the back of your hood and give it a whirl.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Interesting. I totally forget to mention that was a big issue. Just turned 46. I have been using 1.75, 2.25 cheater lenses, and reading glasses as well. I never knew I had any vision issues (I have perfect far vision) until I started welding last year. Funny thing happens, when I weld a lot, my near vision gets worse, ad if I don't weld for a week or two, my eyes go back to 'normal' (near perfect close vision as well) I went to the optometrist las week to have him check it out, and he basically said the same. But he did say a good helmet wouldn't hurt!I just can't really see with the Tweco. Just to repeat, any good AD's that go down to 8, but are fast darkening when I hit contamination, etc? It is REALLY holding back my welding, IMO. Thanks, guysMotorboating...in the Cleavage of the Tetons
Reply:Never had any luck with a auto helmet when Tigging. They always malfunctioned no matter what I used. Miller, jackson, etc. Just get a cheapo flip down and put a shade 11 in it. I have been doing that for 10 years with the flip down, no problems. I do use a jackson auto helmet when Migging though.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:Fixed shade for me for the last 20 years.
Reply:I can't say that I notice any difference between a passive lens (have not used gold), a cheap autodark and an expensive one when welding. Not that I ever went from one to the other back to back so I will go with it don't matter much if at all.
Reply:Originally Posted by mikecwikI can't say that I notice any difference between a passive lens (have not used gold), a cheap autodark and an expensive one when welding. Not that I ever went from one to the other back to back so I will go with it don't matter much if at all.
Reply:Originally Posted by WookieWeldingorder one of these http://www.phillips-safety.com/weldi...4-25-gold.html and you will see a night and day difference in a passive Glass Gold Lens and for the big window http://www.phillips-safety.com/weldi...5-25-gold.html
Reply:The best gold lens on the market today is the Omni-View, it is clear and crisp without the orange glare.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Originally Posted by mikecwikI was just asking about the gold lens on another forum such as differences  between brands.The link is dodgy at best. Are these glass, for the price I would think? There is also no brand listed so it is like they can send you anything or is this all of their own brand?
Reply:I prefer a good ol fixed lens Jackson, with a 4" shade 11 gold. Never had a problem with it.... You can weld anything under the sun with it. Best thing about it is that it was like $30, so if it breaks then oh well. At the same time its nearly indestructible anyways.