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Tired of grunting, pushing and pulling bulky things onto my trailer, so I built a mounting bracket to bolt a hand cranked winch onto which should make loading a dead 4 wheeler or other odds and ends onto the trailer much easier. The winch only has an 1100lb winching capacity and I'm no structural engineer, so hopefully my design will hold up to loads underneath that amount.
Reply:Might work fine as is, but I think it would be stronger with those two straps welded on where the original tongue jack was or somewhere else torward the front of the tongue rather than angled back as you have them now. Put the ring for the winch hook on the upright that holds the winch so it won't be in the way of anything on the deck.
Reply:What are you going to do when a load wants to be pulled low? Maybe you could mount an additional load wheel just above the floor that is removeable (adjustable height, too) so that it stays out of the way and is easy to slip the cable in and out of. There's my $0.02, nice trailer, too. When a welder tells you to "stick it", what do they really mean?"In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act." - George Orwell
Reply:Bistineau, I designed it like this because I have a dog that rides in the bed of my pickup every place I go. I leave the tailgate down where he gets out and gets under the truck for shade or cover when I'm stopped somewhere for any length of time, thus the reason for putting the straps toward the back so the tailgate clears in turns. I have a two piece chain with a turnbuckle in the middle to attach one end under the mount and the other end where the old jack used to be and can tighten it to relieve strain when winching and then simply remove it when driving.Bearston- Not a bad idea, I might design a snatchblock to hook onto the front of the trailer bed to run the cable through for that purpose you suggested.... Thanks |
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