Bucket teeth.

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Same machine as my other bucket thread. My buddy asked me to put new teeth on the backhoe bucket. After looking closely, I seen many cracks."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:"Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:"Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:These are vert up"Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:McKay 7018XLM 1/8" @ 115A (I think. I forgot to double check amps.)Customer wanted bolts for teeth, instead of pins. I cut excess and tack welded nut."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:buckets are tricky..if you're not livin on the edge, you're takin up too much room..
Reply:I wondered why you used bolts. He's probably going to quickly learn why pins are used instead of bolts after he digs a bit. I can almost bet by the end of the 1st job or so with serious digging he'll have snapped all them off. If he's been having difficulty keeping teeth on, it's probably due to worn shanks and not the pins..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:pins are expensive.. just had to buy about 800 dollars worth of stow pins (what is that?.. like 3?) for the jib on one of the groves we just used due to not puttin the dang things where they go... but i agree.. teeth are gonna come right off with the bolts... oh well.. return customer..if you're not livin on the edge, you're takin up too much room..
Reply:First job! I give it less than an hour of digging. Weld the snot out of it.
Reply:Originally Posted by transitFirst job! I give it less than an hour of digging. Weld the snot out of it.
Reply:I generally start the weld just back from the lip of the bucket to avoid cracks like that, along with preheat.Cracks like that need to be chased right back with either a gouger or grinder.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWI can't tell how bad the cracks looked, but I would probably ground them out deeper myself. All those cracks tells me the operator beats on this machine. You have rock where you live don't you? That or he likes to break up side walk by smasking it with the hoe teeth.
Reply:" It should only take you a few minutes to weld this up...."" It's a quick Job..."" Just run a quick bead..." Yeah RIGHT!!!.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by Stick-manMcKay 7018XLM 1/8" @ 115A (I think. I forgot to double check amps.)Customer wanted bolts for teeth, instead of pins. I cut excess and tack welded nut.
Reply:the shank typically fully supports the tooth, the pin just hold it on the shank, I don't know what this bucket digs in but those bolt heads and nuts are going to wear out super fast, if it had bolts in it when you tour it apart, I bet he changed them out daily, I never heard of pins costing that much money, unless it's on some big stuff. the cracks where the shank is welded to the blade I bet was due to bad welds to begin with because everything looks straight"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal"   -Henry Ford
Reply:Originally Posted by eyeball engineerthe shank typically fully supports the tooth, the pin just hold it on the shank, I don't know what this bucket digs in but those bolt heads and nuts are going to wear out super fast, if it had bolts in it when you tour it apart, I bet he changed them out daily, I never heard of pins costing that much money, unless it's on some big stuff. the cracks where the shank is welded to the blade I bet was due to bad welds to begin with because everything looks straight
Reply:people do marvelous things with stick welding.  stick-man, you get my props.
Reply:Those cracks are usually caused more by prying,  getting the teeth under a rock, asphalt, concrete and then rolling the bucket while pushing out on the stick, using the bottom of the bucket as a fulcrum.  I've had "operators" break the whole lip off of the bucket doing that.
Reply:Grade 8 bolts will loose their strength when welded so no worrying for using them...My Babies: HF Drill pressHF Pipe Bender3   4.5" Black and Decker angle grindersLincoln Electric PROMIG 175that´s it!
Reply:I see the cracks in the grindout, but as far as the rest??Pix set on Post#2 is stick I guess?  The high rounded crown on the beads suggests too little heat.  And you can see it in the toes too.  The toes didn't wet in properly.You have two choices when setting the heat according to the rod size.  You can set it high, and hope for the best.........or you can run the rod in the middle range and tighten up the bead/puddle.....maybe no more that twice the size of the electrode.A larger dia. rod capable of carrying more current would have been a better choice, and keeping the bead narrow.Post #4 ain't vert up no way, no how, by the looks of it.  It looks like a flat wire weld.  And again...........too cold.  High crown, no wetting on toes.A large mass of steel (the teeth) will absorb a lot of heat.  The larger mass acts like a heat sink.  Setting the heat to weld the heavier metal, and washing the puddle down onto the lighter metal, will give fantastic results.  Set amps for the thicker member, and smoogie the lighter stuff"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammPost #4 ain't vert up no way, no how, by the looks of it.  It looks like a flat wire weld.  And again...........too cold.  High crown, no wetting on toes.:
Reply:its amazing to see the difference in machines that are owner-operated and those that are abused by employee operators......i always use run-on/run-off tabs when running a weld to the edge of plate like that. you don't get cold start/stop problems, and they are easily gouged off once the job is done.
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmLooks to me like he just forgot to take pics till after he rolled the bucket....  I wouldn't have a problem claiming those.  Not everything needs, or will allow 100% penetration.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammI see it now, my badI get the A Hole of The Month Award
Reply:Here's what I mean by heat, and wetting.The welds were made on 3/8 plate.First pic.........the actual build (modifying a gooseneck hitch pocket on a flatbed)Second pic.........two beads which formed the foundation for a builtup weld, these were 7018 1/8 in the high end of the 130amp range.  Very slow progression, rod angled to keep the puddle at bay so it wouldn't overrun the arc.  A really hot slow weld.Third pic...........a builtup weld on the edge of 3/8 plate.  Two foundation beads were 7018 1/8 again in high 130amp range.  Final pass was 7018 5/32 in the high 180amp range.  Again a slow hot weld.  3 passes is a lot of work for a lap joint like this, but I know I have good penetration at the base and good fusion between passes.A little note on the builtup welds......... I used to try to cover a larger area, and build more metal with one pass.  I found that the results were better when doing tight focused beads and making the extra passes.I've found that keeping within the limitations of the rod size is the key.  Trying to build up too much, or make a wide bead is trouble.  Also, you can slow your progression by easing up a bit from a close to vertical rod angle, pointing the rod into the puddle allows you to travel slower and dig deeper.  Had I done the tooth you did I would have used a bigger rod for the heavy flat welds.  It seems the bigger rods are able to carry a ton of extra current and really get the job done.  A slight grind gouge into the cracked area would have insured really good penetration, but maybe it wasn't necessary, I don't know what thickness you were working with.No criticism is really friendly  It's criticism, and nobody likes it.  A "suggestion" would probably be better Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/nice job what size hoe is that hoe bucket on?
Reply:looks like it could have been a two or three pass job. and before I saw your post saying "not verticle up more like 45*" I was thinking no way that he ran a bead verticle up by dragging. not bad work all together. Good job
Reply:Just an update. The regular, grade 5 bolts I put in this bucket are still holding strong! Although this machine is only used on average, 2 to 5 days a month, it is not used lightly. Here is a job we were on the two days before Thanksgiving. Some pretty crappy soil with lots of bricks, rocks and broken concrete."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:How thick is the base edge ? It dose'nt look like the cracks were gouged in anyway or pre heated looks to me like it might have to be welded again soon if the base edge is 3/4 or thicker looks cold to me and in in the first pic on the top left when I zoom in I think I see cold cracks? PaulAnother day in paradise You only have to be smarter than the metal".   WeldiniMaking an honest living is nothing more than stealing from someone who can afford it and everyone feels good when it's over .      Weldini
Reply:Originally Posted by Heavy Metal ServiceHow thick is the base edge ? It dose'nt look like the cracks were gouged in anyway or pre heated looks to me like it might have to be welded again soon if the base edge is 3/4 or thicker looks cold to me and in in the first pic on the top left when I zoom in I think I see cold cracks? Paul
Reply:Heavy Metal Service, Those repairs were done almost two years ago. I just happen to get a pic with smoke coming out from the teeth hitting concrete during the dig. Then I remembered how guys here, rightfully doubted the bolts would last. Well, two years later, the welds and the cheap bolts held up! I figured I would post it up for the heck of it."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:Originally Posted by Stick-manHeavy Metal Service, Those repairs were done almost two years ago. I just happen to get a pic with smoke coming out from the teeth hitting concrete during the dig. Then I remembered how guys here, rightfully doubted the bolts would last. Well, two years later, the welds and the cheap bolts held up! I figured I would post it up for the heck of it.
Reply:Originally Posted by Heavy Metal ServiceNo sweat I'm not questioning your weld just the prep if ya worked for me I'd fire ya for wasting grinding wheels  and not gouging the cracks lol no offense mentPaul