Im thinking of tigging 5/16 steel then capping with stick7018

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Im building some  larger metal stands  the metal is 3/16 and 1/4 and 5/16 im trying to save time so thinking first tig it then cap with 7018 stickI have   200 amps max to play with right now pros and cons to this ideaim guessing I have to bevel if Im going to tig it first ?
Reply:if you've got stick, do it all stick. Or do it all tig. No point it doing both. thats set up time for both and you still have to clean it up once you've done it with the stick welder.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Yea thinking all tig as I wont have to chip anything off after. wish I had a mig welder
Reply:Out on the jobsite I see tig hands, tig the root, hot/filler and then cap with stick. They say its faster like that. I don't really tig so I havnt a clue.
Reply:It would be alot faster just to stick weld it. If you tig it there would be more prep time because everything has to to be nice and clean and you would have to grid off all the mill scale.
Reply:Stick all the way out hands down, but what are your capabilities, let us see both!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:not sure where you are getting tig is faster. I know in school when I stick a pipe all the way out, it takes half the time if i tig it. but I have more experience with stick.... either way id stick it lol- Christian M.C3 Welding & Fabrication - CNC Plasma Cutting-Mobile Welding-Custom welding and fabwww.c3welding.com
Reply:With that thickness, I see no reason to TIG it at all. Just weld it up with stick. Faster prep, faster deposition. It's not like you're going to have it xrayed afterwards. For anything over 1/8", I think you should bevel it. But if you bevel 3/16" and then weld it up with 1/8" rods, you can just do it in a single pass, no problem.Last edited by joshuabardwell; 08-02-2013 at 10:36 PM.Everlast PA160-STH... and that's about it!
Reply:Originally Posted by Bigrich954rrYea thinking all tig as I wont have to chip anything off after. wish I had a mig welder
Reply:Tig is too slow and more expensive for this work.Stick is the way to go for this material. Higher rate of metal deposition and less expensive.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1MILLER REBATE program is still in progress !!! they have the 211  http://www.millerwelds.com/landing/build-with-blue/I agree on the stick, tig is just to slow. I don't see beveling it being a issue. What's it for ??
Reply:Bevelling light structural is overkill.Put a gusset on it, which you probably have in the plans anyway.
Reply:well 6 hours into it so far  thinking Im going to stick it  tig went great after about a 30-45 mins  of prep for a joint . then I rushed a joint with about 20 mins of prep stopped for today as I was  starting to rush stuff.So tomorrow will just be a grinding day. im use to alum , SS and even the thin steel  I have welded before have very little mil scale this new steel its like a plating of crap yea there a lot of gussets and a leg brace for the finished thing.    one weld   with 4 feet sticking free air I jumped on it im about 235lbs it rocked the 4x4 2500CC dodge cummins  truck  hard. when I figure out how to post a pic I will. http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...DD34BEBAB1.jpgQuestions for MIG  can I run a mig wire were I  don't have to get all the mil scale  and dirty crap off and it will still weld great ???Last edited by Bigrich954rr; 08-03-2013 at 09:52 PM.
Reply:Stick weld with 6010 1/8'' 5 P and it should burn through whatever is on the steel. As far as miggoes with mill scale it depends on how bad it is. I am not a real mig guy yet, but I use the .030 Lincoln L- 56 in my 211 and it works great. I did have a couple spots I hit with wire wheel.
Reply:.Get the 211Not only for the MIG aspect, but FCAW process is also well worth having.I use it a lot on thick section like your project and outside. .Miller MVP 211HTP Invertig 221ESAB PCM-875
Reply:you can fluxcore thru all kinds of crap, but why can't you clean it?
Reply:Working in a factory and having to deal with some real greasy dirty parts constantly, mig can weld through quite a bit, I don't recommend it though, most days I would scrub my parts, other days I would just weld. Mill scale never was a problem until you get you into the 3/4" + range, and then we would have the parts sandblasted.Working for myself now I take the time to clean the grease off and make a pass over the joints with a sanding disc. But I'm with everyone else, a single pass of 6010 should do it, no cleaning needed.
Reply:Originally Posted by Bigrich954rr when I figure out how to post a pic I will. http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...DD34BEBAB1.jpg
Reply:Originally Posted by Bigrich954rrwell 6 hours into it so far  thinking Im going to stick it  tig went great after about a 30-45 mins  of prep for a joint . then I rushed a joint with about 20 mins of prep stopped for today as I was  starting to rush stuff.So tomorrow will just be a grinding day. im use to alum , SS and even the thin steel  I have welded before have very little mil scale this new steel its like a plating of crap yea there a lot of gussets and a leg brace for the finished thing.    one weld   with 4 feet sticking free air I jumped on it im about 235lbs it rocked the 4x4 2500CC dodge cummins  truck  hard. when I figure out how to post a pic I will. http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...DD34BEBAB1.jpgQuestions for MIG  can I run a mig wire were I  don't have to get all the mil scale  and dirty crap off and it will still weld great ???
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloYou really should be clearing off the mill scale, REGARDLESS of which welding process you are doing. Stick and fluxcore can cut through it to a point.
Reply:Originally Posted by WPSalvationStick and flux core will completely cut through it... I agree that it is good practice to do so... But if you're sticking it and getting in there with a grinder is a task on its own... I say to hell with itSal
Reply:lol I am cleaning the metal but it just not going to be as clean as needed for tig work I believe. Im not getting porosity just looks kinda rough vs when I weld in the shop All the welding is done in the field  no water to clean with  a few  rags and little acetone  All power is coming from a genset  so not looking to spend hours grinding and trying to cleanTrying to run this fast and cheap  this is a warm up project  to more heavier out door stuff and thinking tig is not the way to goThanks for all the help all the small tips and idea help a lot with which way im going to do things  and what new things to buy as money comings aroundLast edited by Bigrich954rr; 08-04-2013 at 06:20 PM.
Reply:If you don't want to clean, then you need to switch to stick or fluxcore.You can weld TIG outdoors, you just need to turn your argon up or build a windbreak. If it was me, I would weld that with stick, either 6010/7018 or straight 7018.