Welding solid 4130 Chrome Moly...

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Little "T" type screw for I just welded it..2" OD solid round threaded on one end and then coped for the other piece..Done in the positioner set up "Backwards" compared to the way I usually do things..Pre heat  both parts dull red with the rosebud..Tack..Weld then re-heat to dull red again and let cool by itself..1/16" 70S-2 filler..2 passes..Note last pic weld end..That's what they should look like.I get all the fun jobs.....zap!Last edited by zapster; 12-16-2011 at 12:05 PM.I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Zap, for starters, I'm not critiquing your technique, I'm looking for some trick of the trade.Do you ever use thicker filller metal?  Seems to me that everything I see you post is done with 1/16" filler rods.  Have I just missed it when you switch to larger TIG rods in your previous posts?  How do you keep that small diameter TIG rod from balling up when you're running enough amperage to fuse that joint on such thick material?I was taught to size the filler rod to the tungsten electrode(amperage needed) and the size of the joint.  But there have been times when a smaller TIG rod would have helped me keep the puddle size under better control.  But I have the devil of a time keeping those thin TIG filler rods from balling up when I'm running what I feel is the right amount of amperage....Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Originally Posted by A_DAB_will_doZap, for starters, I'm not critiquing your technique, I'm looking for some trick of the trade.Do you ever use thicker filller metal?  Seems to me that everything I see you post is done with 1/16" filler rods.  Have I just missed it when you switch to larger TIG rods in your previous posts?  How do you keep that small diameter TIG rod from balling up when you're running enough amperage to fuse that joint on such thick material?I was taught to size the filler rod to the tungsten electrode(amperage needed) and the size of the joint.  But there have been times when a smaller TIG rod would have helped me keep the puddle size under better control.  But I have the devil of a time keeping those thin TIG filler rods from balling up when I'm running what I feel is the right amount of amperage....
Reply:Zap, I don't usually argue with results.Thanks for the explanation. -DaveBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Looks great Zap!
Reply:Zap. awsome. Can you explain your technique to get that overlapped look. I have been trying and I cannot seem to get it. Are you adding filler at the toe and then moving north to the other toe and adding again and then to south and repeat.Or it might be east to west ?T.J.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:Why the solid round if you're only going to put a weld that penetrates 1/8th inch into the perimeter?  Not knocking your weld but the engineer/mechanic who asked you to make the weld.  It seems like he added a significant level of cost and difficulty because the solid dictates preheat and the the extra material costs.
Reply:Looks nice Zap,love it!
Reply:Obviously, I am not knocking your welding.  You have to know that the probability of that weld failing is pretty high considering the material choice and size.  You really should make it clear to the customer that they are getting what they asked for.  Being a T bolt of that size implies that there is a pretty significant load on that T.  Hopefully, it's not a critical load.  Maybe it's all aesthetic and material that was laying around.Rene
Reply:Originally Posted by TJSZap. awsome. Can you explain your technique to get that overlapped look. I have been trying and I cannot seem to get it. Are you adding filler at the toe and then moving north to the other toe and adding again and then to south and repeat.Or it might be east to west ?T.J.
Reply:Originally Posted by zerepenerObviously, I am not knocking your welding.  You have to know that the probability of that weld failing is pretty high considering the material choice and size.  You really should make it clear to the customer that they are getting what they asked for.  Being a T bolt of that size implies that there is a pretty significant load on that T.  Hopefully, it's not a critical load.  Maybe it's all aesthetic and material that was laying around.Rene
Reply:nice work zaptackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Zap,I'm just curious, do you line the jaws of the positioner with brass to prevent marring on the threads?  Is that positioner variable speed?  I have a smaller indexing head around that size and am considering turning it into a positioner.  I was thinking of some replaceable brass inserts for the jaws so just curious as to how yours works in that respect. Originally Posted by SundownIIIDon't get me wrong.  They are just as ill informed about politics as they are about welding, they just post more on that subject.
Reply:Originally Posted by jmtebbensZap,I'm just curious, do you line the jaws of the positioner with brass to prevent marring on the threads?  Is that positioner variable speed?  I have a smaller indexing head around that size and am considering turning it into a positioner.  I was thinking of some replaceable brass inserts for the jaws so just curious as to how yours works in that respect.
Reply:Oh, I know how nice they are!!!Here's my big one.I want to convert this small dividing head into one. Originally Posted by SundownIIIDon't get me wrong.  They are just as ill informed about politics as they are about welding, they just post more on that subject.