Welding Cast Metal

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Hi All,I am a novice, although I have welded a lot of things together, including buildings that are still standing in the desert wind.I have a broken linkage arm from the Kwikee steps of my motor home (broken near the drive shaft) which is cast iron, I think.  My neighbor, who also welds as a non-pro said cast metal was a tricky task.I have an "old standby" Lincoln stick welder (only running on 30 amps) and a 120v wire feed.My question:  Which should I use...........or...........should I take it to a pro.Many thanks,Jim Attached Images
Reply:Brazing might be your best option. Try sticking it with 7018, if it doesn't work, take it to a pro.http://www.facebook.com/LockhartMetalArthttp://www.facebook.com/pages/Grumpy...44306259043484
Reply:Check to make sure it's not cast zinc first. Does a magnet stick to it?Miller Dynasty 200DXMiller Spectrum 250DMiller Millermatic 200Bunch of old blue dinosaurs....
Reply:Originally Posted by grumpycricketBrazing might be your best option. Try sticking it with 7018, if it doesn't work, take it to a pro.
Reply:Originally Posted by desertjimNow "that" is definitely above my pay grade .  Thanks grumpy!!
Reply:Originally Posted by grumpycricketBrazing is not difficult to learn. If your location was declared, a nearby member could possibly help you. If it's zinc (white / pot metal), it's best to tig it, AC polarity, using Aladdin 3 in 1 filler rod.
Reply:Use a nickel rod.  I know there are different qualities of these.  Also probably do some preheat and then weld it.  You'll probably want to have a needle scaler handy to hammer the area you weld to help relive some of the stress from the weld. Then wrap some insulation or something around it to cool it slowly.seabee78
Reply:Oxy Acetylene brazing would be easy enough, granted the author didn't suggest that he a set-up for that.  Someone near enough may be able to help out with that.
Reply:Originally Posted by desertjimAre you kidding me?? No one lives anywhere near me, unless they got lost, couldn't find their way back to civilization and just settled down .I live in New Mexico, between Deming and Silver City.  See????
Reply:Muggyweld has awesome electrodes you can use for cast metals.  Check out their website. http://muggyweld.com/Here's a couple of their videos:Last edited by ANVIL; 09-13-2013 at 01:40 PM. "Hey I didn't come to look and learn, I came to turn and burn.... If I can't light up, I'm gonna light out!"-JodyIdealarc 250 "Fatman"MM 252MM 211 "Little boy" Victor Torches
Reply:I had a couple of "problem jobs", both were solved with this rod:http://www.castolin.com/en-US/product/eutectrode-66661. Cast iron bathtub used for watering horses, its ancient & rusty, freezes solid in the winter. Developed a 16" crack in the bottom, tried every variation of cleaning, preheat, nickel rod, iron powder, welding only 1" sections then cooling, etc. LWS gave me some samples of 6666, worked great. Gouged it with an angle grinder and ran a continuous bead, no further cracks or leaks. Many years now, its still holding. 2. "Cast metal" radiator housing on early 1940's IH crawler tractor. Unclear what the metal really is, but it developed a big crack, nothing would hold. Anything I put on it either wouldnt penetrate or it cracked immediately. Same game, clean it well and preheat it to get rid of coolant residue, weld, crack, weld, crack, drill holes in crack, weld, more cracks, etc. Nickel, iron powder, 6011, 7018, plus ER70S-6. A lot of grinding and reworking. Wire worked about the best, but still cracked. Stubbornly determined, I did a "build up pad" which continued to crack and leak. Finally went over the top of the pad with 6666, now holding tight. A couple of knowledgeable people said wartime (WWII) metal shortages, equipment mfgrs would just use whatever was available, mix it together to make a casting. Unknown composition. The Eutectrode 6666 composition didnt appear to be much different than any other lohi rod, but it certainly worked better. Frightfully expensive & special order, but well worth it to keep the old dozer running. Still use the rod occasionally when regular stuff doesnt work.Hobbyist - At what point is a "hobby" out-of-control?
Reply:Originally Posted by FORTEALLOYI had a couple of "problem jobs", both were solved with this rod:http://www.castolin.com/en-US/product/eutectrode-66661. Cast iron bathtub used for watering horses, its ancient & rusty, freezes solid in the winter. Developed a 16" crack in the bottom, tried every variation of cleaning, preheat, nickel rod, iron powder, welding only 1" sections then cooling, etc. LWS gave me some samples of 6666, worked great. Gouged it with an angle grinder and ran a continuous bead, no further cracks or leaks. Many years now, its still holding. 2. "Cast metal" radiator housing on early 1940's IH crawler tractor. Unclear what the metal really is, but it developed a big crack, nothing would hold. Anything I put on it either wouldnt penetrate or it cracked immediately. Same game, clean it well and preheat it to get rid of coolant residue, weld, crack, weld, crack, drill holes in crack, weld, more cracks, etc. Nickel, iron powder, 6011, 7018, plus ER70S-6. A lot of grinding and reworking. Wire worked about the best, but still cracked. Stubbornly determined, I did a "build up pad" which continued to crack and leak. Finally went over the top of the pad with 6666, now holding tight. A couple of knowledgeable people said wartime (WWII) metal shortages, equipment mfgrs would just use whatever was available, mix it together to make a casting. Unknown composition. The Eutectrode 6666 composition didnt appear to be much different than any other lohi rod, but it certainly worked better. Frightfully expensive & special order, but well worth it to keep the old dozer running. Still use the rod occasionally when regular stuff doesnt work.
Reply:No on the tub, yes on the dozer. Dozer preheated with a big propane torch. Not sure how hot, but long enough to get rid of the white vapor from coolant which had leaked thru the cracks. Slow cooling accomplished by jamming a big wad of fiberglass insulation tight against the area immediately after welding.Hobbyist - At what point is a "hobby" out-of-control?
Reply:Originally Posted by FORTEALLOYNo on the tub, yes on the dozer. Dozer preheated with a big propane torch. Not sure how hot, but long enough to get rid of the white vapor from coolant which had leaked thru the cracks. Slow cooling accomplished by jamming a big wad of fiberglass insulation tight against the area immediately after welding.
Reply:LWS said they can get it, special order. 11# container, $15 a pound + S/H, sold in full containers only.Not sure if I can post their contact info, PM me if interested.Hobbyist - At what point is a "hobby" out-of-control?
Reply:Originally Posted by FORTEALLOYLWS said they can get it, special order. 11# container, $15 a pound + S/H, sold in full containers only.Not sure if I can post their contact info, PM me if interested.