Anyone with some gunsmithing/welding experience?

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Recently I inherited a "parts kit" for a firearm.  Don't worry--totally legal/compliant parts...Anyway, there is a reciever--it's made of sheet metal (4130 from what the manuf. says), 1.5mm thick.  Then there are 2 guide rails that need to be attached.  they are the same alloy/thickness.The rails guide the bolt, and work as the ejector for spent shells.  the rails are maybe 3"x3/4" The most common way to join the 2 pieces of sheet metal are spot welding them in 4 or 5 places.  Some folks use bolts, and it seems to handle the beating.  I don't have a spot welder, and the bolt-job is just plain ugly.  I was wondering what you guys thought about drilling through the outer sheet metal, then using nickle-brazing with a MAPP/Oxy setup.  If everything was clean and hot, the capillary action should provide a very strong bond for a good distance around the hole.  The fit-up of the 2 parts should be very good--both should be perfectly flati know that gas welding can produce some extremely strong welds--pleny strong for this application.  What I do not know is if I will have a problem with work hardening, or some other reason they will fail some time down the road.Anyone with experience or opinions?  Gas welding, bolts, or spending the money on a spot welder (which I would use exactly once)It's better to curse the darkness than to set yourself on fire.
Reply:Chaski has a gunsmithing forum. Might be worth a check in at that site. Regeistering there is as easy as here or the others. http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/...eaa222a65d16e0"The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:It wouldn't by ant chance be  an old Sten gun kit, would it?.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thanks for the heads up on a gunsmithing forum.It's a kit for an under-folder AK.  I carefully read the ATF laws, and it ended up costing me another $100 for "compliance parts"--but I REALLY don't want to get into trouble with them!It's better to curse the darkness than to set yourself on fire.
Reply:AK-builder.com will answer it all. have fun and make sure you head space before firing!
Reply:When I built mine, I just spent the $90 at HF and bought a spot welder.Had to modify the tips to fit into the receiver, but it worked great.You know that you have to heat treat the ejector and the receiver pin holes, yes?Best of luck.-RJ-[RedneckJazz]Miller Bobcat 225Miller S32p FeederMiller 251D Hi FreqMillermatic 211
Reply:thanks guys.  I do have a heat treater lined up.  Actually, it's a friend who works a local heat treat specialist.  I think I could handle it--but I don't know about doing a critical part like that with a MAPP torch and some old motor oil!  (I bet it would work--the AK is an amazingly simple and rugged design).I got the rest of the stuff I need from AK-builder.  Excellent service and decent prices.  I'd go with them again.  The barrel is already installed and headspaced, and I may leave it that way and bolt the receiver in place, or get ambitious, pull it, rivet, then re-instsall it.  We'll see.I might just break down and go with an HF spot welder.It's better to curse the darkness than to set yourself on fire.
Reply:Good luck ... Remember to tie it to a tree and use a looooonnnnggggg string to pull the trigger when you first shoot it ... Murphy's Law just loves to bite people in the backside ...I have been there, done that ... I have taken the scars and left the smiles to prove it ...  U.S. Marine extraordinaire ...Wars fought, tigers tamed, revolutions started, bars emptied, alligators castrated ...
Reply:Originally Posted by JohninWIthanks guys.  I do have a heat treater lined up.  Actually, it's a friend who works a local heat treat specialist.  I think I could handle it--but I don't know about doing a critical part like that with a MAPP torch and some old motor oil!  (I bet it would work--the AK is an amazingly simple and rugged design).I got the rest of the stuff I need from AK-builder.  Excellent service and decent prices.  I'd go with them again.  The barrel is already installed and headspaced, and I may leave it that way and bolt the receiver in place, or get ambitious, pull it, rivet, then re-instsall it.  We'll see.I might just break down and go with an HF spot welder.
Reply:Originally Posted by magusjinxGood luck ... Remember to tie it to a tree and use a looooonnnnggggg string to pull the trigger when you first shoot it ... Murphy's Law just loves to bite people in the backside ...
Reply:I do some tig repair for an old gunsmith guy And he has me use 308 stainless for almostAll his parts.......been doing his stuff for 5 Years and no problems?  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Plenty of build info. http://forum.saiga-12.com/  Also www.youtube.comTypically there is spot welding of the rails.