Welding with wooden walls...???

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I see what looks like a lot of people who weld in their home garages. We have a 60'x40' shop we keep our lawncare equipment in, the floor is cement and we have an aluminum roof, but the walls are wooden. It wouldn't even concern me so much if the wall was solid all the way up, but they put plywood only about one sheet high from the floor. Hence, if you drop a screwdriver down that little hole it's gone forever unless you cut a hole in the bottom of the plywood. lol! There's nothing covering that hole where the sheets end... I hope to get my own welding equipment soon and it would go in the shop; we already have a 230V outlet in place from when we built the shop over 5 years ago. My concern is when I'm welding carbon steel sparks flying down into one of those holes and burning the thing to the ground. I most likely will be doing mainly aluminum tig, no sparks = no big deal. But what do you think I should do when stick or mig welding carbon? I could move into the middle of the shop but that still leaves 20 feet; I know they say the sparks can travel up to 30 feet, but even then I most likely wouldn't be doing very heavy-duty welding with high amps on thick material...Should I just get a fire extinguisher and be very very cautious? Or should I also get crazy and get some welding blankets and build shields/walls to put around me  ??? hahaha thanks
Reply:Finish the walls, problem solved.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:It is always better to be safe than sorry! Your call. Weld On!
Reply:I would suggest the same thing Dave suggested... Finish the walls all the way up and if that's too much work then cut some plywood to cover the hole all throughout your shop. Although I hear plywood can catch fire either way, doesn't need a hole to catch fire... especially if it's dry  Maybe a better option would be to take off the plywood that is currently on the walls, I doubt the plywood is bearing any weight although applying plywood to a wall helps reinforce a wall.I don't know about you but I'd feel pretty uncomfortable trying to concentrate on my welds and worrying about the walls lighting up at the same time. My welds are bad as it is, can't picture what'd they look like without my full attention at the puddle Last edited by aav1996; 10-07-2013 at 07:43 PM.
Reply:Just do Tig...problem solved!Motorboating...in the Cleavage of the Tetons
Reply:That's a lot of plywood and a lot of mula. And it isn't my shop, it's my dad's. I'll just be welding in it til I move out It is better to be safe than sorry, Henrymac.  I might get some welding blankets and make the stands to hang them from. I'll put those around me while welding CS (in the middle of the shop) and I'll do only aluminum near the walls.  and a fire extinguisher hahaha
Reply:Thanks, guys!
Reply:I love tig, it's my strong-suit whether I'm doing CS, SS, or aluminum. But I'll probably also be doing some stick and maybe some mig...
Reply:Weld in the middle.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Sheet rock is your friend. Less expensive than plywood and rated by code as fire resistant for use as a firewall between a garage and living quarters.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:It isn't the welding so much I'd be concerned about, it's the sparks from GRINDING!  They go in every which direction at once!  Clamp a work piece in a vise and start cleaning it up or reshaping it with an angle grinder and watch where the sparks go!  My suggestion is to finish covering the walls, preferrably with moisture and fire resistant gypsum board.  I know everyone has a budget, few people have bottomless checking accounts, but it's money well spent.  The garage where I do my metal work has two poured concrete walls and two mortared granite block walls, but the ceiling is 200 year old rough-sawn flooring on top of exposed 200 year old log joists.  There is wooden furniture and antique lumber stored upstairs.  I also have an 8 foot long 2x4 and plywood table separating the work bay on the end of the building from the other two bays where vehicles are often parked. If the place ever catches fire it will flame up like a tinder box!  My eyes are always checking the ceiling and the wooden table for hints of smoke if I have been grinding.  By my own rule I don't leave the premises for at least 1/2 an hour after doing any grinding or welding of any kind.  It usually takes me that long to tidy up the shop!- MondoPS there is no better way to show your appreciation to your Dad for letting you use his premises than covering those walls for him!- MondoLast edited by Mondo; 10-07-2013 at 08:22 PM.Reason: add post scriptMember, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.
Reply:Mondo - I do the same "fire watch" after welding and grinding. I've seen enough stuff spark up that I'm pretty careful. Down the road a farmer had sparks make it outside and burn down his shop.My house burned inside about 6 years ago, started while I was sleeping. Still smell smoke sometimes when I try to sleep.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Cover the walls with drywall, or take it outside.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveMondo - I do the same "fire watch" after welding and grinding. I've seen enough stuff spark up that I'm pretty careful. Down the road a farmer had sparks make it outside and burn down his shop.My house burned inside about 6 years ago, started while I was sleeping. Still smell smoke sometimes when I try to sleep.Dave J.
Reply:You could add some tin flashing to the top of the plywood with screws, then fold it over to contact the exterior wall and attach it there. This will let the sparks roll off and out onto the concrete floor, so long as it is angled some and not flat level. Won't cost much for that, mostly your time to do it.
Reply:Originally Posted by MondoWoW!  It is a good thing you survived or we wouldn't enjoy your illustrious companionship here today!I know a welder who got burned out of his 1800's farmhouse welding in the attached barn about 20 years ago.  He put down the stinger and ducked out to the auto parts store only a couple miles away and while he was at the counter the fire trucks went screaming by.  He'd been gone about fifteen minutes and a neighbor called in the fire.  The attached barn and all his gear in it was a complete loss.  There was enough water damage to the house he had to tear it down.It is remembering that incident that I maintain my 1/2 hour rule like my life depends on it!- Mondo
Reply:5/8 gypsum board (drywall) is fire rated.  Wall cavities should get fiberglass or rockwool insulation.  Plywood is fairly resistant to sparks or flames as long as it is not an exposed edge, the flat face will char but not easily support flames, a fire resistant paint would make it fairly good to resist grinding and welding sparks."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:You could buy some of the harbor freight blankets and hang them above the wood. Not too costly if you use a 20 % off coupon.http://www.harborfreight.com/8-ft-x-...ket-67701.html
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1You could buy some of the harbor freight blankets and hang them above the wood. Not too costly if you use a 20 % off coupon.http://www.harborfreight.com/8-ft-x-...ket-67701.html