New to TIG am I

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I recently got a crackerbox welder that would allow me to do TIG as well as stick.  I am practicing with the TIG and have some questions.I'm welding two pieces of scrap steel together using a 3/32 tungsten electrode, 25 psi argon, 3/32 70S-6 filler stick and running around 108 amps.I started this piece at around 75 amps and kept sticking the electrode to the work.  Is this a sign that I am not running enough current?I gradually increased the amps to 108 and things seemed to go better.Does it matter what kind of filler I use?  The 70S-6 is all I had on hand.The crackerbox came with several different sized ceramic cups.  How do I know which one to use?The picture I have included is my second attempt to weld something.  I started on the right and made a mess, then moved to the middle with some changes and welded to the left.  I moved back to the right and continued toward the middle where I ran out of filler and just went back over the area to the right and washed it.How many times can I go over an area and remelt it?  Do I have to worry about slag inclusion like I would with stick? Attached Images
Reply:The 70-s6 is a good rod for slightly dirty metal, but that layer of rust needs to go for a good looking tig weld, there is no slag with tig you can keep welding over the same area, but if you start seeing porosity you have gone way hot. Turn the gas down to under 20 CFH, Practice on some sanded down metal, clean enough to eat off, then we'll be able to see the giant HAZ from welding at too low an amperage. Cup size is the least of your worries (that's what she said!)Last edited by Brazin; 10-05-2013 at 01:04 AM.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:I'd keep the gas around 20cfh... turn the heat up. How thick is that metal? I can't really tell. For 3/8" steel I go anywhere between 110 and 140 amps. You can run it hotter if you can handle it. Move faster the hotter you go. 108 seems like a good set. Cup size for something like that won't matter much. It's more for whatever you feel comfortable using. Definitely, definitely grind that metal first. You want a nice shiny surface to weld on and you'll see how smooth tig runs. I don't do much tig that's not on pipe though. Just sayin'.
Reply:Thank you.  I'll turn the gas down some.  I had a #8 cup on the torch and dropped it.  Went to get a replacement, but the closest they had was a #6, so I'll use that for now.  The steel is about 1/4" or a little less.  These were pieces of scrap laying aound and pretty rust covered, so I took it to the bench grinder and ran it under the wire wheel and then ground down just the immediate area that I was going to weld on.  It's hard to tell since I've weleded right up to the edge of the rust.What does it mean when the electrode sticks to the work piece?  Is this just sloppy welding technique, or is it an indicator that I need more current?
Reply:It sticks when you touch it to the workpiece. You need to maintain a gap for the arc to cross.
Reply:Your filler is way too big..1/16" is all you need....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Filler - 1/16" - Thank you, how can I determine what size to use in the future?Also, if I'm going to get another tube of a different size, then what is the best filler rod for me to get.  I will be using it on regular pipe and scrap steel.  Nothing exotic.If I take a while to get back to the forum, I apologize.  I will be spending all day in the tractor.
Reply:yup, You do not want to touch the tungsten to the work or let the filler hit it either. Starting out it will happen a good bit. The more you practice the steadier you become and it is less of an issue.... So no its not too low of an amperage causing it to stick.- Christian M.C3 Welding & Fabrication - CNC Plasma Cutting-Mobile Welding-Custom welding and fabwww.c3welding.com
Reply:For filler you can stick with the 70-s6 or commit to more cleaning and use the s2. You can size the filler to the gap you're filling, or as small as practical. I only have 1/16" at home. If you grind back an inch of clean metal you'll see the heat affected zone or HAZ, and it will tell you how much excess heat you've put into the work and any contamination of the tungsten (a rusty looking ring). The wire wheel will knock off the rust but won't help at all with mill scale, and that has to go, I like the flat discs at 40 grit on the angle grinder, rather than a more expensive flap wheel. If you can, grab some fresh scraps of cold rolled steel, the cleaner the metal the more you'll learn by looking at the weld.Last edited by Brazin; 10-06-2013 at 11:20 PM.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:you want your filler small enough that your weld pool doesn't instantly freeze when dipping it, but large enough that it doesn't melt back before you get to the pool.Dynasty 200DXPassport plus w/ spoolmate 100victor 315c oxy/(act and prop)Miller digital elitemilwaukee power tools
Reply:Thank you very much.  Great advice.  Sorry I took so long to get back.Time to practice.  I'll ask more later.