Welding metal furniture- stability

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Not sure if thats a good title for this, im not worried about the strength of my welds but it seems every single time i make something that needs to stand on a flat surface and has legs and/or a base its always wobbely and i end up having to cut corners by grinding down a foot or hammering one down so its stable. I measure everything up well but i think my problem is the heat moving it all even efter ive tacked it. is it possible i need to put some heavier tack welds? Does anyone have a method for holding things in place if they were making furniture that needed to be all squared away? Thanks in advance. (trying to make a small weld table)
Reply:Something I often do if possible is to make the legs a little bit longer then set the job level/square etc using packings and then scribe around the legs and cut to suit.Lincoln SP-170 MigHypertherm powermax 45Lorch T220 AC/DC TigButters FM 215 synergic MigKemppi 180 adaptive mig RULES ARE FOR THE OBEDIENCE OF FOOLS AND THE  GUIDANCE OF WISE MEN.
Reply:Are you tacking every opposing corner and checking square after each tack? Also as mentioned, making the legs longer helps with fixing warpage. Sent using Tapatalk on AndroidSupport Bacteria -  It's the only culture some people have!
Reply:leveling feet:Can even make your own by welding a large washer to the head of a bolt if you don't care about it pivoting or swiveling.
Reply:Either use leveling feet, or use a foot with some resilience to it, like rubber or heavy felt. The reason, is that all floors are out of true to some degree, and you need to accommodate. Otherwise, spend more time in fixturing whatever you are building, so that it doesn't warp while you are welding.
Reply:If I can't use leveling feet then it gets 3 legs. You can almost never get it to set stable without adjustable feet. I even use regular nuts and bolts if it isn't for looks.CERTIFICATIONS:7018M- H.V.O10718M- H.V.O11018M- H.V.O9N10- H.V.O71T-1-HYM- H.O.V100S1 PULSE ARC 0,035- H.O.V100S1 PULSE ARC 0.045- H.O.VER70S-3 PULSE ARC 0.035 H.O.VER70S-3 PULSE ARC 0.045 H.O.VER5554- H.O.V
Reply:Even if you build everything perfect, it will still wobble.  Floors are rarely perfect.  I think most store bought stuff sits flat because it flexes.My name's not Jim....
Reply:I build quite a bit of metal tables and chairs. I just try to be as accurate as I can. I never have more than a 1/16" of wobble.To get it perfect, set your project on your welding table (hopefully you have a real one) and put a level on it to determine which leg is highest of the two high ones. Position the project on your welding table so that leg is off the table. Grind a little off the bottom and try to push it onto the table. If it won't go then grind a little bit more and try to push it onto the table. Do this until that leg will slide onto the table and it should be perfect.
Reply:Nothing is ever perfect or square. I try everyday but ya gotta sometimes build in some adjustability.Last edited by Jimmy_pop; 03-04-2012 at 10:47 PM.
Reply:I am finishing a table now that I have a litttle bit of wobble. I had planned to use levelers on it. I like Bobs suggestion, the only problem is that the table I am working on is my welding table or I would use his suggestion.
Reply:Thanks for all the responses guys im gonna try the rubber feet idea. Makes sense that no floor is perfect because things I make will appear level on the table but wobble all.over the place on the floor, and other way around. Really appreciate the advice!
Reply:Originally Posted by UniquelyInkedThanks for all the responses guys im gonna try the rubber feet idea. Makes sense that no floor is perfect because things I make will appear level on the table but wobble all.over the place on the floor, and other way around. Really appreciate the advice!
Reply:3 feet is the only true way to guarantee a wobble free piece, only problem is that its not nearly as stable as 4 feet.