Attaching aluminum to steel...

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So. I made this sign to hang on the house. It's 3/8" steel.I initially thought about welding some scrap stainless into one sheet, and welding it behind the numbers to give it some depth. That fell through, since I don't have enough stainless to cover every number.I did weld a bunch of aluminum scrap together, however. So now I have an aluminum sheet that will cover the back of the numbers.What I didn't plan for was, how the heck am I going to stick this aluminum to the steel?I don't have anything pneumatic....... drill, rivet gun, etc. The only hand tool I have is a 14v drill. It will put a hole in the aluminum for a screw... but I am almost positive it won't put a dent in the steel.Or will it? I haven't tried yet.Any ideas on how to attach a piece of 1/8" aluminum to this steel plate? Weld-on-a-roll is out of the picture.
Reply:Hello akabadnews, there are a couple of options that you could try: 1, weld some metal tabs to the back of the steel portion of your sign that hang over the edge of the aluminum and allow you to tack the other end to the steel. 2, drill a hole through the aluminum piece and place a steel washer over the hole that has the OD of the washer slightly larger than the hole in the aluminum and the inner hole large enough to plug weld it to the steel back of the sign. I believe one of these two methods might work for a quick attachment of the aluminum to the back of your steel sign. I'm sure others will likely have suggestions too. Good luck and regards, Allanaevald
Reply:Just glue it on.  A tube of JB Weld will do the job.
Reply:aevald, I was actually considering the tab method you're talking about.However, 76GMC1500... JBWeld sounds like less work. I hadn't even considered that. It's not critical at all. Just needs to stick on there so I can hang it outside of the house.Thanks for the comments.
Reply:See now in California, you'd need a permit and a contractor with a license who's J-B Weld certified!!!
Reply:Drill hole in aluminum.  Position aluminum over steel.  Build steel up in bottom of aluminum hole, and keep building until it "overflows" over the aluminum surface.  Or if you want it flush, maybe countersink the aluminum hole, build up to or above surface, and grind flush.  Repeat in several places for adequate strength.  Weld is "hidden" this way.Alternately, drill through it all and use some long pop rivets (with proper grip length.). Or nuts and bolts/screws.  (You could go countersunk Allen head cap screws if you liked that "look").  They would be exposed, though, and you'd have all that 3/8" steel drilling to do, and get no welding out of it (if that might matter to you).I'll bet it's a pretty heavy sign!  May want to first plan how you're going to mount it to the house? If you're going to mount to wood with lag screws, maybe just drill both layers where they'll go and screw both layers to your house?I have some relatively lightweight metal numbers on my house and they're screwed into wood siding with sheet metal type screws, Which are counter-sunk and flush with Phillips type screw heads.  (These are nothing like 3/8"+ thick, or steel, though.)It could look good stood off a bit from the back layer, rather than tight against. With bolts or screws, you could easily do that using washers of the desired thickness.Last edited by jakeru; 10-25-2013 at 01:33 AM.
Reply:I'd probably consider the 3M double sided sticky tape they use for automotive stuff ( the number escapes me this morning). You gain a couple of things. #1 it will attach the steel to the alum no problem and it sticks super well since they often use it to attach body panels on trailers and so on. #2 it solves the issue of dissimilar metal corrosion that will happen with steel and alum right up against each other outside in the weather..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I just drilled some 3/16 holes in 1/4" steel with a 3/8 hand drill a couple of hours ago. Took maybe 10-15 seconds each.That 14V will do it, no problem. Drill it and tap it so when the steel rusts and stains the aluminum you can take it apart and fix it. I know. No taps either. Go buy one. You don't have to buy a whole set.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWI'd probably consider the 3M double sided sticky tape they use for automotive stuff ( the number escapes me this morning). You gain a couple of things. #1 it will attach the steel to the alum no problem and it sticks super well since they often use it to attach body panels on trailers and so on. #2 it solves the issue of dissimilar metal corrosion that will happen with steel and alum right up against each other outside in the weather.
Reply:I would try some solid brass rivetstackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Originally Posted by ironmangq3M VHB tape, easy to use and about as strong as any adhesive out there, we use it a lot in aluminum widow/storefront systems to hold flashing on. Once its stuck its permanently stuck. Not cheap though, On second thought, I'd go with the JB or even some 5 minute epoxy.
Reply:Thanks for the input. I planned on having it set back a little for a shadow effect. Haven't gotten around to fixing the rest of it yet but there are a lot of good ideas in here. I think there's a drill and tap set in the garage somewhere. I'm not sure how it's going on the house yet. It's not very heavy, but I think I might end up hanging it from a post in the driveway instead.