how to make pipe stands?

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Did a search on here as to how to go about making a set of pipe stands, but found nothing. My main concern is how do i make the turning handle to raise and lower it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Ranger 305gMillermatic 140 AutosetDewalt Chopsaw2 grindersMy Fists
Reply:Hello bp626indamix, sorry I don't have any pictures of any right now. I will try to describe a method that I employed on some at work. Got a 2"x2"x 1 1/4" wall tube and put 3 legs on it(tripod style) to provide instant stability. Took a length of all-thread, 3/4" and welded one end of it to a square piece that was small enough to slide up and down on the inside of the tube without binding. Got another plate with a hole in the center of it that would allow easy movement of the all-thread up and down. Welded this to the top of the tube and inserted the all-thread with the plate welded on the end up through the hole in the plate welded to the top of the tube. Threaded a nut onto the all-thread with handles welded to the nut for turning the nut to aid with height adjustment of the stand. Then welded whatever type of end onto it that I needed to use the stand: rollers, a vee, flat plate, etc. When the nut is turned by it's handles  to raise or lower this set-up it will not require anything additional to prevent turning of the all-thread. Hope this makes sense, if not I will try to include some photos when I get the opportunity. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:Try to get hold of some old scaffold adjustable feet.  I find a few in the scrap metal bin at work.Ajax threads are quicker to adjust.Here is one i made from scrap.I am going to put another set of legs that will attach mid way up the tube and to the outer of the existing feet.  They work OK for now. Attached ImagesLast edited by LarryO; 03-14-2012 at 03:43 AM.
Reply:Here are some plans that are on another site - Shop Floor Talk - http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ead.php?t=5428Sure, I can fix it... I got a welder!!!
Reply:Where you located???  Check your local craigs list. Guy on craigs list by me had RIDGID adjustable stands with  "V" top for $25.00 EACH. My brother bought 4 .Cheaper than making but hard to find. As far as the screw, I bought a couple from a concrete outfit selling out. They were used for shoring.
Reply:Originally Posted by LarryOTAjax threads are quicker to adjust.
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabIs that the equivalent of our ACME thread?
Reply:Originally Posted by LarryOAh, thats it.  ACME thread, not AJAX thread.  ( in future, think Road Runner )Bah.  I knew there was something wrong when i was typing that but i could not work it out at the time.
Reply:Thanks everybody! Gotta get some material after work today.Ranger 305gMillermatic 140 AutosetDewalt Chopsaw2 grindersMy Fists
Reply:Here's how I've made mine.  First shot is overall and all the way up for one of my tall stands. I use 2" pipe either schedule 40 or schedule 80 for the base depending on whether I want heavy duty or not. Then 1 1/2" heavy or light for the inside pipe. That's 1/4" x 2" strap on the feet and there's a triangular hole where they meet in the middle to allow the stands to drain. I use 1" x 1/8" wall or heavier for the supports (they are what really holds up the load).   Second shot is a detail of how I do my holes. I use a vernier method of adjustment to allow fine adjustment without drilling a bunch of holes. The holes on the inside pipe are 6" apart and then I space three holes 2" apart on the base. This allows 2" increments for the course adjustment easily keeping it within the capabilities of the screw at the top. One thing of note here is don't drill these near the top of the pipe. You need room for the screw to stick down with the pin in place. I'll get some measurements if anybody wants.   Third shot shows my home made screws. I have to admit that most people won't be able to do these this way. But I have 1 1/2" bolt dies for my pipe threader (I use them to make plow shafts) and usually have lots of short pieces of 1 1/2" shaft sitting around left over from making plow shafts. So I just thread them up. Notice that I leave the chucked end without thread. You want some method of preventing the screw from coming to far out of the tube. Since there's a limit to how close I can thread to the chuck I just used that as my limit.   By going with 1 1/2" diameter screws you can use and swap out with standard folding stand screws. I do believe there's someone on ebay selling just the screw tops for the standard folding stands. At least one local guy bought some that way.   The fourth shot shows my short version of the stands.  Oh yeah one more detail. I weld about a 1" or 1 1/4" washer on top of the 1 1/2" pipe then use a die grinder and carbide burr to enlarge the hole for the screws. This gives something to grab for lifting the inside pipe, plus something for the nut to sit on, as well as making the screw a tighter fit in the hole for less slop. Attached ImagesLast edited by irish fixit; 03-14-2012 at 06:50 PM.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:When I was a apprentice we made them with 2" schedule 40 black pipe.  Determine how high you want them and cut pipe to  length. Divide into thirds diameter wise. Extend the lines from end of pipe 18". Now cut on those lines to make grooved openings. Heat where all cuts end and bend each section out to form  the legs.  Next we would ACQUIRE rebar from iron workers and weld to the now formed legs to keep from spreading near bottom . Now it was time to ACQUIRE the screw jacks from the guys that were framing   the decks with scaffolding and reshores. Just happened that thier screw jacks fit perfect in our newly made 2" pipe stand to be. We just cut off their top channel and added our angle. Worked out great but now a days it's cheaper just to buy them.
Reply:Okay so i went to get some acme thread and they wanted $80 for 12 feet. Does that sound right or can i get it cheaper? Thats not even including the rest of the materials im gonna need. But they will be heavy duty.Ranger 305gMillermatic 140 AutosetDewalt Chopsaw2 grindersMy Fists
Reply:Originally Posted by bp626indamixOkay so i went to get some acme thread and they wanted $80 for 12 feet. Does that sound right or can i get it cheaper? Thats not even including the rest of the materials im gonna need. But they will be heavy duty.
Reply:Just use 3/4 or 1" all thread rod. It will work just fine with a little graphite on the threads.
Reply:You can buy the sumner ones already built for like $59.00 (fixed) or $69 (folding) with the standard V head.  Why even bother even building them for that price. Lincoln 300 Vantage 2008300 Commander 1999SA250 1999SA200 1968Miller Syncrowave 200XMT350MPA/S-52E/xr-15Xtreme 12vs Millermatic 251 w/30A  Millermatic 251 Dialarc 250 Hypertherm 1250 GEKA & Bantom Ironwokers
Reply:Originally Posted by Xtreme FabricationYou can buy the sumner ones already built for like $59.00 (fixed) or $69 (folding) with the standard V head.  Why even bother even building them for that price.
Reply:Thats what i was thinking as well, but it just feels good to build stuff. Ranger 305gMillermatic 140 AutosetDewalt Chopsaw2 grindersMy Fists
Reply:These are the ones I've been using for close to 30 years now. They have had a lot of weight on them and have held up well. On one set there is roller heads that can be screwed off and a level head with rollers can be put on. Really works great with I beam and such.The ones you build can be much better than the ones you buy. You can see on the handles that turn, they have a solid 2" piece of metal on the outer part. It does two things. When you pick up on the head and spin it to adjust, it acts like a fly wheel and will keep spinning for faster adjustments. With the thick piece down like it is you can stick a bar along side of it and past the up right tube to get the leverege you need to make fine adjustments when you have a lot of weight on it.They are 1" pipe inside of 1 1/4 pipe. The legs are made out of prebent rebar corners that I bent more. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabKrikey!!....I figured it was some "down-under" equivalent that you blokes used. Good on ya.