Typical New Guy Thread

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I've been lurking here for a long time and am finally sacking up and posting. I have run into a great deal for myself buying bulk amounts of steel tubing about 10,000 lbs at a time. At the moment I am mainly craigslisting the tubing, and while it has done me VERY well, I want to start building stuff.  I am an extremely new welder looking to build light duty structures such as deer blinds, duck blinds, hay rings, gates, etc.  The first project I started was a basic firewood rack.  I borrowed a friend's Weld Pak 110 and just went off the chart on the machine and my gut instincts.This is what my gut instincts look like After that huge failure, I decided to do some research and youtube watching as well as visiting a friend who is to say the least a little more experienced.  Based on his insight, I decided I needed to get a gas setup. I basically stole a Hobart 135 a few weeks ago for $100, got a bottle of 75/25 for it, and I'm maybe half way through my first roll of wire.  This is my best weld to date with this setup:And here is my first decent project, a 4 man duck blind.I'm looking for any tips, tricks, or advice any of you have to offer.  I am a big fan of humor even if it's at my expense, so flame away!
Reply:Originally Posted by Slumpbuster36 my gut instincts.This is what my gut instincts look like [IMG]I am a big fan of humor even if it's at my expense, so flame away!
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauDidn't you mean to say "gut end stinks"? Are you near the Waskom area of Tex.? If so I may help you lighten your supply of tubing, depending on what sizes ya got. I don't think that duck blind is gonna float too well with no bottom in it, but I guess it will work on the bank next to a pond, lake,or river.
Reply:The old weld to new is a big improvement   Try to include the tacks in the weld so it all ties in and doesn't leave craters. Wish you were near me I need to get some steel.
Reply:Which craters are you talking about?  The brown spots?
Reply:Yes, the first and last in the pic look to be from when you tacked the part together and then made a short weld between the two tacks
Reply:So to fix this, I should tack it, and then once it's all in place, run one bead from the beginning to end, going over the tack welds?
Reply:Yes and I like to use as small of tacks as I can to hold it where I want it. Also I try to put the tacks about 1/2" closer to center than on the corners so the start doesn't look so high/cold.
Reply:Thanks for the help, I'm out in the garage now and it is working better. Now, why do I get these little nipples that pop up right after I try to fill in a hole? Yea that's right, I said nipple
Reply:That's porosity. Maybe you are pulling the torch away to quickly after finishing the weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by Slumpbuster36Thanks for the help, I'm out in the garage now and it is working better. Now, why do I get these little nipples that pop up right after I try to fill in a hole? Yea that's right, I said nipple
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabNow that we're talkin' about nipples I can chime in...Is the part that you're welding "closed"... meaning are there any open ends of the tubes or are you welding it together like a picture frame and the ends of the tubes all join together?If they're all sealed than what you are experiencing is "blow-out" from the gas build up in side the tubes as you weld. Drill a small hole (I usually use about 1/8") somewhere on the tubes and weld all the joints then come back later and put a good tack over the hole then grind it down.
Reply:I think ZTFab is right, it is prob. blowout. Do what he said and it should fix it. This has happened alot to me when tig welding. I have found a way to prevent this most times when tigging but I'm not sure it can be done with mig.
Reply:Originally Posted by Slumpbuster36Now, why do I get these little nipples that pop up right after I try to fill in a hole?
Reply:Originally Posted by Stick-manUh hem, don't worry, that usually happens!!!
Reply:Originally Posted by Slumpbuster36Thanks for the help, I'm out in the garage now and it is working better. Now, why do I get these little nipples that pop up right after I try to fill in a hole? Yea that's right, I said nipple
Reply:Your coming along fine bud, and listen to ZT, score on the tubing as well!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by Slumpbuster36I don't remember now that I'm not out there, but its very possible that it only does it on the last joint that I weld.
Reply:I was wrong, it doesn't only do it on the last weld. I was working on a 5x7 frame for a deer blind just now and my chop saw decided to cut the 45's kinda crooked so I had lots of gap to fill. As I was putting spots on them to work them together, I kept getting them damn nips again. They like grow once I let go of the trigger and pop out. Once I start to weld on them they seem to be hollow and go away quickly?
Reply:You're getting some sort of contamination in the weld or lack of shielding gas that is causing the nipples.Make sure that you have sufficient gas flow and that there is not a bunch of spatter build up in the nozzle of your gun. Also make sure that you are not welding in any sort of breezy or windy conditions. If all that checks out it might be your gun angle that is causing the problem.http://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:It's probably a little bit of both, I don't really have any technique when I'm trying to fill gaps.  Thanks for all the help yall, I am starting to half way get the hang of this stuff.  My 135 will be just fine to weld anything up to 1/8" correct?  I am making the floor and tower for this blind out of 11 gauge 2" square, with the walls and ceiling being 1" square with 1/8" sheet on the outside and top.  I figure I can just about weld the corners of the sheet on the outside all the way down, and go over all the seams on the inside with silicone before adding some 1" thick tyvek and then the inner wall for the blind to insulate it.
Reply:It's funny how much better things work once you talk to somebody who knows what theyre doing!I think my main problem in being consistent was the angle of my tip.
Reply:Originally Posted by Slumpbuster36It's funny how much better things work once you talk to somebody who knows what theyre doing!I think my main problem in being consistent was the angle of my tip.
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabIt's just like sex...you gotta know how to hold it and where to put it.
Reply:With MIG, you need to clean the metal before welding. Use a flap disc or wire brush and clean the area you are welding to shiny before you weld. You'll have a better weld without the contamination.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.comHoly crap, someones sure gotten better [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Originally Posted by wb4rtWith MIG, you need to clean the metal before welding. Use a flap disc or wire brush and clean the area you are welding to shiny before you weld. You'll have a better weld without the contamination.
Reply:I wouldn't bother cleaning that steel before welding, looks fine to me. Cleaning/grinding doesn't hurt but not really needed unless the steel is really rusty. I think it's just a matter of practice makes perfectIn the photos there, make sure you weld all the way round to seal the joint properly
Reply:Hey Slumpbuster are you near Houston area??Miller Synchro250 bought new 1997Millermatic200Miller Bluestar 2E . AC/DC 16hpBluestar 2E , DC Miller Thunderbolt225 AC/DC ArcLongevity 60 plasma
Reply:I'm in Dallas
Reply:Y'all coming South to Austin any time soon???Thermal Arc 185 ACDCLincoln Weldpac 155
Reply:I am down in Temple at least once a week with a trailer
Reply:Originally Posted by Slumpbuster36I am down in Temple at least once a week with a trailer