that 90amp flux HFT welder

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OK, well I'm building a welding table. I'm using a half frame top with 2" angle 1/4" thick and topping it with bars of hot rolled 2.5" wide 3/8" thick. I know my HFT 90 flux cannot do single pass in no way shape or form but I'm just experimenting with multi-pass welds and lap joints and just planning on gravity to help a little lol. Don't judge too much, I'm saving for something better.So here's the issue, today when I started, I did good prep work, cleaned everything well and had good ground. I put in .035 wire and just assumed that since its so thick of metal I would turn my wire feed all the way to 10 and my output at max. So with my first tack, it seemed to hop and the wire tip got unusually hot. I tried a short bead and it was jumping all over. Just seemed like it was pushing wire out too fast. I was really confused because I thought that the thicker metal requires faster wire speed. I turned down the speed to 7 and it still jumped. Turned it down to 5 and seemed much better, and ended on 4.5 and felt great. Sounded good and my puddle looked OK. So why did I need to turn it down so low? I just assumed that since it was around 50 degrees out and my material was not much different, it wouldn't arc as well. Maybe if I treated it with heat first it might work with a higher speed and get a little more penetration? Well, I think I might cut my welds and try again, but does anyone have any thoughts? Just to reiterate, I will be buying a much better welder soon, I just want to play around now lol. Thanks!
Reply:That really just showed you one of the relationships between wire feed speed and wire diameter and welding current output values for your circumstances.Basically, the higher wire speeds are too much to ask of your low output welder using .035" wire.  Using a smaller diameter wire would change that factor and you would probably be required use a higher feed speed to prevent burn back at higher relative current ranges.
Reply:At max power you need more speed to deal with smaller wire with steel. If you look at the setting chart for a given power tap, you'll notice that for each wire size, the smaller the wire, the faster the speed needs to be. This is assuming small hobby type welders vs industrial migs..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I have been using .030 wire and this is my first time using the 35. I was getting decent welds (I think) with .030 wire but just figured that the thicker wire would be better for the thickness of material I'm welding. Now I think that with my low output, it doesn't really matter which wire I use, it'll suck either way lol. I was just reading about ground clamps too. I think I might improve mine a little with more copper so I get better contact, maybe that will help some.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWAt max power you need more speed to deal with smaller wire with steel. If you look at the setting chart for a given power tap, you'll notice that for each wire size, the smaller the wire, the faster the speed needs to be. This is assuming small hobby type welders vs industrial migs.
Reply:Originally Posted by YupI looked at the chart and it shows with thicker metal, the wire feed needs to be near max (paraphrasing). That's why I'm confused, could the temp affected it? What about the ground?
Reply:I would hold off on making your table til you get a better welder. The maintenance man at my work has this welder and I used it for the first time today to prove to him that he needs to learn how to weld and that the machine is garbage. His welds look like bird turds "might not look pretty but they hold" yeah right. I did a butt weld on 1/8" on max and cut it to see the penetration. The weld visually looked great after I cleaned the slag with a wire brush. Guess how much penetration? 50 thou. That's right .050" And there's people welding on trailers with this welder...Millermatic 210 & 300Miller 330 a/bp w/Miller coolmate 3Lincoln 225 ac/dc buzz box200amp Hobart 16hp portable welderCarbon arc torch, oxy/acy, plasma cutterCNC plasma table
Reply:I can't argue with that. The more and more I think about it, the more I think about selling this welder and using that money towards another. While I am currently shopping for an upgrade, I just don't have the dough to throw down at the moment. Have any recommendations for around $400? Needs to be 110-120v. I've been eyeballing longevity 140, ahp 140 or real gear 140, though I think they are the same thing, just different names.
Reply:I used to have a Lincoln 140 when I first started welding and used it for all kinds of small projects for 8 or 9 years. The duty cycle on any small welder like that is going to be the biggest setback besides max output. I've never owned an eastwood mig but I have their tig that runs on 110/220 and it welds great on 110 (probably putting out 130-140 amps)Millermatic 210 & 300Miller 330 a/bp w/Miller coolmate 3Lincoln 225 ac/dc buzz box200amp Hobart 16hp portable welderCarbon arc torch, oxy/acy, plasma cutterCNC plasma table
Reply:OK, cleaned up my HFT welder and got it for sale on CL. Already have two bites on it. That will help fund whatever else I decide on getting. I'm going to be smart this time. My budget will be around $400, so I should have some good options. I just don't want to screw up my welding table and I'll want the precise capabilities to be able to make small nuts and bolts figures.
Reply:Tig..Millermatic 210 & 300Miller 330 a/bp w/Miller coolmate 3Lincoln 225 ac/dc buzz box200amp Hobart 16hp portable welderCarbon arc torch, oxy/acy, plasma cutterCNC plasma table