Can't keep 7018AC going

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I'm pretty new to stick welding (used a 110V wire for several years, but it just didn't have enough juice). I badly need stick for our little ranch here in Central Texas; lots of stuff to build. One problem is that we're pretty isolated; there's no welding school or expert around here to take lessons from.A couple of weeks ago I got a Hobart Stickmate 235AC welder and have been practicing almost every day.  6011 wasn't really a problem, but the last few days I've been trying to learn to use 3/32" 7018AC. I can do well with it when I get the dang arc started, but my real problem is keeping it going.  I try to keep it right down on the puddle, but after running about half an inch of bead, I lose the arc.  Again and again and again.  I can NOT keep that arc going for more than an inch. It's extremely frustrating, especially considering how difficult it is to restart 7018.  I've been using some pretty choic language in the shop.  I'm practicing on 1/4" plate, clean metal. I've been running it at about 110 amps.  Anything below that is hopeless. Can somebody give me some advice?
Reply:Shorter arc length maybe? and turn the amperage down to around 100. or maybe even less and as for the re strikes drag the end of the electrode  across a file (that's not grounded!!) before you try to re strike and that may make your life easier.Hope this helpsRyan_______________________OF COURSE I DON'T LOOK BUSY... I DID IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME
Reply:Hmmm... amps sound about right.Worked OK with 6011.What brand of 7018AC are you using?Is it fresh?  7018 stored  open tends to abosrb moisture and become difficult to run smoothly.Arc may tend to go out if your arc length is too long.Look at this web site - lots of good info and video here.http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/learning-arc.htmLook at the video on 'arc length' - that's what should be happening.Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:7018 rod generally runs beautiful.   Did you get the AC version of 7018..  you are supposed to use up 7018 in 4 hrs after opening sealed package cuz the low hydrogen flux absorbs moisture.  then it needs to go in a rod oven.  that said I ran some prob 15-20 year old stuff stored in the open and it ran ok.....  is your ground clamp nice and clean?  also I recommend a solid brass/copper clamp if you dont have one..  HF sells them for about $16you can scratch or tap start the rod.  the trick is stopping and not pulling rod too far out after the arc actually strikes.   old rod will take several taps/scratches to strike. with the arc going out after an inch, it sounds like maybe you have a corrosion problem on your leads or connections somewhere.  is this a new or used machines.   As you weld the current will cause increase resistance across any corrosion points and its like turning down the amperage as you weld.    if its a used machine take all the cable connectors and contacts...  including in the stinger and ground clamp apart and clean it all up.  if you don't have bright copper on all your contact cables and points you have corrosion and a source for resistance to current flow (amp flow)Last edited by soutthpaw; 06-22-2011 at 10:40 PM.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Amps Scotty I need more AMPS Damit!
Reply:get some 1/8 rods. bigger ones are easier to keep lit.
Reply:[QUOTE=Ruark;5.  I've been using some pretty choic language in the shop.  ?[/QUOTE]1) have you tried "miserable whore bitch"?2)you are too hot for 3-32 7018..if it wont run at 80-90 amps, clean all the contacts as suggested..clean  inside the stinger too..can you post fotos ..Last edited by weldbead; 06-23-2011 at 05:02 AM.
Reply:Listen to good advice clean up get 1/8 7018 name brand AC rod run it hot box will have settings on it get plastic tube to store it . Any brand Lincoln /Hobart /Easb /Forney all should work OK !!! John
Reply:You are on a farm.  Do you have 240VAC or 208VAC to power this welder with?Gordie -- "I believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."
Reply:Oh 7018 how I love you. I have deep love for 1/8" 7018 on DCEP right around 120-140 amps on 1/4" flat position. So much love. It's one of the best things to see the slag curl up and fall off in a single piece when the weld cools. Have you tried running it on DC to see if you groove better with it? I looked online and it appears your stick box will run DC as well.
Reply:Also if you can swing 6013 for your projects I'd say give it a go. I have personally found it's one of the easiest rods to run, it's super versatile, and my welds are always pretty with it. Also, you don't need a rod oven for storage unlike 7018. A lot of people seem to hate it, I'm not too sure why, I personally love it for just sticking two pieces of metal together.
Reply:The 235 comes in 2 flavors, AC and AC/DC - I think the OP said he had the AC unit.One of the easiest things to overlook that would cause that is poor connections at the ground clamp or in the electrode holder.  Shiney metal under the ground clamp helps.The ground clamp that comes with the 235 is almost useless - stamped sheet metal with tiny contact points.  Upgrade to one of the nice 300/400A rated clamps with flat contact points and you will find it easier to maintain the arc.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:7018 is easy to restart. Tap the "cup" formed by the flux off on whatever's handy (and not connected to your ground!) or crush it off with your free hand.Amps Scotty I need more AMPS Damit!
Reply:Originally Posted by farmallfrom http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=19742
Reply:Originally Posted by TaidenOh 7018 how I love you. I have deep love for 1/8" 7018 on DCEP right around 120-140 amps on 1/4" flat position. So much love. It's one of the best things to see the slag curl up and fall off in a single piece when the weld cools. Have you tried running it on DC to see if you groove better with it? I looked online and it appears your stick box will run DC as well.
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawDid you get the AC version of 7018..
Reply:I did a search on his welder and came up with this:[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500421-Stickmate-Welding-Source/dp/B00004WHGH[/ame]
Reply:With 7018AC, you can literally drag it on the surface without trying to maintain an arc length. With the amps set that high, maybe you are burning the rod up faster than you are lowering it, creating a longer and longer arc that goes out after a short distance.Drag the rod as you weld, and if it wants to stick, bump the amps up a bit more until it doesn't.Just a suggestion based on things I have tried and/or read/watched on the internet.Best of luck,Papa.Lincoln Idealarc 250 (circa 1962)Lincoln Weldpak 155 w/Mig KitLincoln Squarewave TIG 175
Reply:Originally Posted by TaidenI did a search on his welder and came up with this:http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500421-.../dp/B00004WHGH
Reply:The fascination with 7018 methinks is a mistake. Nice stuff if one has a rod oven and a need for it, but there are other options.The industry produces a wide VARIETY of electrodes, and not by mistake.  Sample them, and remember that a rod with lots of dig like 6011 is preferable for many repairs. Fear not the ugly surface. They make flap discs for that if needed.If you want a nice cap, run 6013.
Reply:I'd say crank up the amps a little.  The 3/32 rod I'd start somewhere around 95amps, but that's on a DC machine.  You'll need to turn an AC machine up some to compensate for the fact that the current isn't flowing all the time (or maybe the indicator is already in RMS? I don't know).  Then there is also machine differences and line voltage differences.  If it wants to stick and go out, try turning up the current.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:Originally Posted by NiteskyYou are on a farm.  Do you have 240VAC or 208VAC to power this welder with?
Reply:I've heard a lot of guys say they get "just fine" welds with old 7018. I believe it. I love 7018 so much I'd probably grab old 7018 over 6011 for flat or vert anyday if it wasn't super critical like you say.
Reply:More heat. 7018ac needs more heat. Probably not maintaining technique as well as 7018 requires. 6011 would be a better fit or else 7014 on flats. Seems every newbee makes same mistake running too cold. Damp or humid 7018s will run just not as good as dry ones.Millermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:ruark:   Take a look at my E7018AC video I posted on YouTube a while back[click on this link] [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kPPCeNTIUs[/ame]I n the video I show how many E7018's [even the special AC types] may have "arc outages" on some small AC welders. If all the other suggestions for general welding set up don't help, it is probably your welder is not suited for E7018's.   Of all the E7018AC brands out there the Lincoln brand seem to run the best on small AC farm welders like the old Forney / Craftsman 180 amps.What brand of 3/32 E7018AC are you having the problem with?Century AC/DC 250 Amp & Midstates 300 Amp Industrial AC stick welders, Century Flux core 80 amp. wire feed welder  Harris Oxy-Acet. cutting & welding outfit:SEE MY INFORMATIVE VIDEOS AT http://www.youtube.com/user/alpho52I was having problems with my 7018s (DC) sticking and if I bumped it up 5-10 amps, it seemed to do a lot better.
Reply:Originally Posted by AlphonseWhat brand of 3/32 E7018AC are you having the problem with?
Reply:Ruak, at this point, it appears that something is definetly wrong.Suggest:1 - get a local welder to check out the machine and your technique    (maybe post your location, a WW member could be close by and help you)2 - if you bought the machine new at a local wleding shop, take it back and ask them to try it.Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:I'll keep practicing it for a few days and see what happens.
Reply:Turn it up twenty and then back down instead. This is America, it's legal to crank the snot out of welders and see what happens. Learning consumes electrodes, no big deal, it's worth it.Post pics of your welds with different rods.How precise is your vision? Current eye exam? What tint lense are you running?
Reply:Like TJ said, "More amps Scotty!!"Arc outages can be caused by shorting the rod against the steel.  In other words....letting the rod actually stick to the metal by using too short of an arc length.The arc can short out in the puddle too.  Insufficient amps allow the puddle to "drown" the arc.  Higher amps will blow the puddle away from the tip of the rod, and keep it from overrunning the arc.  This is called "arc force".  Overhead welding is impossible with too low amps to keep the puddle from sagging and drowning the arc, you need to force the puddle up into the joint.AC 7018............It's a perfectly fine rod.  I use it all the time for short repetitive welds where I need a lot of restrikes on one rod.  AC is real easy on restrikes.  It's touch and go, boink and burn100amps is absolutely too little.  No kidding.  Crank it up to around 135ish, and hold onto your hat  You'll love how it burns, and arc outages are a thing of the past.7018, and 6013, have heavy shielding flux.  The rod actually burns down inside the flux coating.  When "dragging" these rods on the steel, you're actually "dragging" the flux coating.  This makes it almost like childs play to establish a correct arc length.  The standoff provided by the flux coating is like a guide.  Don't be afraid to push that rod into the metal.Rod angle is a matter of choice.  A lot of people like a steep angle, closer to vertical.  I tend towards a flatter angle, with the rod positioned more paralel to the metal.  I like the "dig" it affords, and I usually watch it dig a trench which fills with the puddle as I proceed.  I really like the deeper penetration.  It's just a matter of choice.AMPS AMPS AMPS AMPS7018AC, 135amps.  Lincoln crackerbox transformer machine with tapped controls. Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:To show different effects of rod angle, here's another weld.Same parameters, but the rod is more vertical during the pass.It's my feeling that this weld is ok, but I prefer the wetting in action at the toes when the rod is angled more.  I'd say this weld is just a smidge cold for my liking.  Again, it's a matter of choice I think.Keep in mind that both welds are "drag" welds, just the angle of "drag" is different.At least it's good for discussion Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by Alphonseruark:   Take a look at my E7018AC video I posted on YouTube a while back[click on this link] I n the video I show how many E7018's [even the special AC types] may have "arc outages" on some small AC welders. If all the other suggestions for general welding set up don't help, it is probably your welder is not suited for E7018's.   Of all the E7018AC brands out there the Lincoln brand seem to run the best on small AC farm welders like the old Forney / Craftsman 180 amps.What brand of 3/32 E7018AC are you having the problem with?
Reply:I figured out why I was losing the arc so often. I have a fan blowing onto the welding area from about 6 feet away, to keep me cool (this is central Texas - 100 degrees, 80% humidity) and to ventilate the welding area. It was blowing JUST right on the weld. I changed it slightly and bingo, it worked fine. I still have a HELL of a time starting the bead - it sticks like the metal was magnetic. I had to stick and unstick it about 15 times before it started, but once it started, I was fine. I'm kinda embarrassed.......This was with 3/32 rod, 7018AC, on 1/4" plate. Hobart 235 Stickmate @ 100 amps.  I'm going to brush up on my technique over the weekend, and next week I'll post some pics of my beads.
Reply:must be a pretty good fan considering SMAW is one of the preferred processes for windy conditionsTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawmust be a pretty good fan considering SMAW is one of the preferred processes for windy conditions