Question for Castweld---

admin

Or anyone else w/ experience w/ this. My grandson bought a little P/U at a good price that needed an engine overhaul. Someone, somewhere, sometime took the timing chain case off, BUT they neglected to take one bolt out and broke the threaded hole off the block(see pics). I've done some brazing over the yrs, but have never done any on an engine block. I was planning on beveling the cracked areas on the block and the broke off piece and brazing it back on. I have some 1/8" nickel rod I could use if it's possible to use in this stuation. Whether I use nickel rod to arc weld or braze it w/ the torch, how much preheat should I use on it? There is still 2/3 of the hole left in the block, so my plan was to prepare everything and thread the bolt in the hole and clamp the broken piece in place. Then weld or braze. Afterwards clean the threads w/ a bottoming tap. I'm open to suggestions for the proper way to do this.  I need to add that the only reason we have the broke off piece is it was buried in silicone over the break.                               TIA,                                      MikeLast edited by mla2ofus; 06-23-2011 at 10:10 PM.Ol' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:The broken off piece sounds like it would be almost a thin chip.  Normally I would recommend you nickel weld the break, but that chip sounds too thin to ever be strong again.  I think in this situation, a good strong braze would be better, especially if you build up the area.Miller Syncrowave 350Millermatic 252/ 30A spoolgunMiller Bobcat 225g w/ 3545 spoolgunLincoln PowerArc4000Lincoln 175 Mig  Lincoln 135 Mig Everlast 250EX TigCentury ac/dc 230 amp stickVictor O/AHypertherm 1000 plasma
Reply:I'd tig it but if all you have is stick &OA I would suggest stick. No need to bevel excessivly, looks like high build up would not be a clearence problem. If it were me... I'd buff area with wire wheel untill clean. Install bolt into bore and clamp broken part. Tack each side, remove bolt and weld one side ,peen area. Let cool then weld other side and peen. No need for pre/post heating that repair.PeterEquipment:2  old paws2  eyes (that don't look so good)1  bad back
Reply:Thanks, Peter. That's the way I was starting to lean. I didn't really like the idea of brass because I figured some of it might bleed down in the threads and I'd have to remove the bolt while keeping the brass in a molten state.                               Thanks again ,                                                    MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:castweld i have found on john deere castings and other high quality castings 7018 rods work better than nickel for me.do you think he should use 7018 on the block or nickel?
Reply:take a look at loctite thread repair kit.
Reply:I wonder if welding a stud in place would work. Turn it into a stud and nut instead of bolt.Just a thought. Don't know if you have clearances.
Reply:Originally Posted by cowskicastweld i have found on john deere castings and other high quality castings 7018 rods work better than nickel for me.do you think he should use 7018 on the block or nickel?
Reply:your right ! i guess the high quality cast i am thinking about must be cast steel,the rougher stuff i have to weld with nickle.