This is a chain with hooks on it

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This is another build of mine. This is a chain with hooks on it that i use to pull stuff out with.The hooks are from a different build that i made. its i think 1/8 plate with 3/8 bolts and some chain my friend gave me. its made for light duty stuff i would try to tow your welding rig out of the ditch. its made to do light stuff. just want to point that out Attached ImagesMillermatic 211 with mvp plugs miller titanium series welding helmetstihl chain saws 8 ft welding table
Reply:Looks like the rig I use for pulling pallets to the rear of a semi trailer...Miller Performance AD Helmet - Camo Edition Soon to have: Jackson HSL 100 - Forest Digi CamoMiller Thunderbolt AC/DC((Currently at welding school))
Reply:Creative....not trying to be mean, but what is wrong with $38 at Lowes for 20' of grade 70 transport chain includes binder hooks rated for SWL of 4700 lbs (breaking strength of 18000)?I have about 8 of those chains, use the binder hooks when I need length.  I use them for everything from small to large pulls and absolutely love working with them - especially at that price.  Fewer tears are shed when one gets left in the woods.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:+1 on the grade 70 chains from Lowes.  I bought several of these also.  Seems to be good quality for the money.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:Originally Posted by AndyA+1 on the grade 70 chains from Lowes.  I bought several of these also.  Seems to be good quality for the money.
Reply:$38 is a bundle to some of us. Plus if you have a length of chain laying around and you can build what you need then you might as well do it. "Every choice you make will effect at least one other person"
Reply:Originally Posted by woodironman$38 is a bundle to some of us. Plus if you have a length of chain laying around and you can build what you need then you might as well do it.
Reply:Not to get off topic, but I do a little bit of tree work and using a vehicle (even a heavy tractor) to aid in felling a tree is not recommended.  Just too many things can go wrong, including what you mentioned with a line under tension breaking and whipping back at someone.  Some other scenarios could include:-estimating the height of the tree or length of pull cable/rope/chain wrong.  Tree falls on vehicle and/or operator.  Even smaller branches in the top of a tree can do some serious damage after gaining a substainial amount of velocity as the tree falls.  Also, the whole weight of the tree is attached to those branches.  A heavyweight boxer's hand may not weigh much by itself, but the power and mass behind it can put a hurtin' on ya.-mother nature, through wind and/or gravity, decides to make the tree fall the other way.  Tree usually wins that tug-o-war with the vehicle and operator being dragged backwards.  Now picture one tire slipping or getting caught on uneven terrain.  A sideways or semi-sideways vehicle is a lot more prone to getting overturned.A much better option is box-notching out an area on the back of the tree for a bottle jack to keep the back cut from pinching and help keep the trunk going in the intended felling direction.  A 20-ton bottle jack with a 2-foot lever arm to the hinge wood has 80,000 ft-lbf of torque.  Getting that same amount of torque with 4700-lbf-rated chain (assuming you could pull with that force) would require the chain to be set 17 feet above the hinge.  The 20-ton bottle jack probably costs as much as one 20-foot length of that chain costs.  Plus, it's a lot safer - you only have one man cutting and operating the jack - and he would be the only one that would have to "dance" if something goes wrong - vehicles and everyone else would already be safely outside the felling radius.Last edited by dbotos; 04-04-2012 at 01:25 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by dbotosNot to get off topic, but I do a little bit of tree work and using a vehicle (even a heavy tractor) to aid in felling a tree is not recommended.  Just too many things can go wrong, including what you mentioned with a line under tension breaking and whipping back at someone.  Some other scenarios could include:-estimating the height of the tree or length of pull cable/rope/chain wrong.  Tree falls on vehicle and/or operator.  Even smaller branches in the top of a tree can do some serious damage after gaining a substainial amount of velocity as the tree falls.  Also, the whole weight of the tree is attached to those branches.  A heavyweight boxer's hand may not weigh much by itself, but the power and mass behind it can put a hurtin' on ya.-mother nature, through wind and/or gravity, decides to make the tree fall the other way.  Tree usually wins that tug-o-war with the vehicle and operator being dragged backwards.  Now picture one tire slipping or getting caught on uneven terrain.  A sideways or semi-sideways vehicle is a lot more prone to getting overturned.A much better option is box-notching out an area on the back of the tree for a bottle jack to keep the back cut from pinching and help keep the trunk going in the intended felling direction.  A 20-ton bottle jack with a 2-foot lever arm to the hinge wood has 80,000 ft-lbf of torque.  Getting that same amount of torque with 4700-lbf-rated chain (assuming you could pull with that force) would require the chain to be set 17 feet above the hinge.  The 20-ton bottle jack probably costs as much as one 20-foot length of that chain costs.  Plus, it's a lot safer - you only have one man cutting and operating the jack - and he would be the only one that would have to "dance" if something goes wrong - vehicles and everyone else would already be safely outside the felling radius.
Reply:They showed that jacking technique on Ax men in one of the earlier seasons. I believe it was Pihl that did it. but they used a special jack. Can't remember if it was electric or pnuematic. but they were dropping a monster old growth.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:For pulling trees I use a throw line - a thin line with a 16oz weight attached to one end.  I can get that line over a branch 30-40 feet or more then tie it to the heavy pull line (I use 10,000lb rated pull rope).  I pull the heavy rope up, put a running bowline knot in it and then either run it through a pulley to redirect the pull or secure it directly to whatever will do the pulling.The nice thing about using a throw line and rope is that you get serious leverage on the tree and can often pull with just a few men on the rope.  The ability to use a pulley to redirect the pull force is a big plus as well.I am a big fan of chain, but I find that high-placed rope for tree work is just so much nicer...Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:One more thing to the OP - those hooks are a great example of getting the job done with what you have laying around.  You even stressed that they are for light work, so don't be bothered by the rabbit hole the thread took into tree pulling.+1 to the "get it done with what I have in the barn" approach.  I really enjoy it when I can recycle stuff into something that I really need.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:Originally Posted by cd19You raise good points, I do make sure I have enough chain and get it high in the tree.  Our problem was basically a result of trying to hold tension on the tree but apparently it was too much before the sawyer got done cutting.  We basically just had it there for comfort.  Anyways hindsight is 20/20 and I am doing some research at this jacking a tree over thing as I've not tried or seen that one.
Reply:There is NO WAY I am going to use a chain saw while tied up in a tree supported by boot spikes!!!   LOL.
Reply:The hydraulic jacks specifically made for tree felling usually have equal size top and bottom plates and are aluminum for lighter weight (so you're not hauling heavy steel/iron jacks through the woods).  They also have systems where you can have multiple rams that hook up to a single manual pump.  But, if you're not cutting trees for a living, a normal bottle jack is much more economical.  Just make sure the top and bottom of the box notch are nice and square to slightly dovetailed - don't want the jack popping out before the tree is down.  To the OP - nice to see that you're thinking about safety and using them just for light weight applications.  One suggestion I would make is to change the way the chains attach to the hooks.  Make two side plates for each hook (pieces of flat stock with two holes in each of them) and use pins (not bolts) to capture the last chain link and the eye of the hook.  This will put the pins in double shear - only half the force on each of two cross sections of the pin instead of the full force on one cross section.
Reply:Like this, but with a little clearance between everything:
Reply:Originally Posted by k45There is NO WAY I am going to use a chain saw while tied up in a tree supported by boot spikes!!!   LOL.
Reply:it's the ride after the cut that is the fun part.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger