Torn between OA and MIG

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Hello all,I'm new here, but many searches have led me to this site so I thought that it's finally time to join. I'm finally ready to purchase a welder and I just can't make up my mind. I took a class which I thought would quickly narrow my decision down to buying a MIG setup, but what it really did was make me want a TIG and plasma set-up, and an OA torch was a close second.Due to the time constraints, I have very little welding experience. Most of the time was spent on principal, very little on seat time. I only MIG'd 1/4" and TIG'd/OA'd 1/8" which isn't even a fair comparison as I did not get to try all machines on both types of metals.I loved how easy the OA was to control. You know when the metal is melted and fusing and when you are getting good penetration. The welds were clean, and I loved how a beautiful weld was achievable on the first try.The MIG however was also pretty straight forward. I know that it takes practice, but picking out the right settings, and keeping a smooth pace were hard for me. It seemed really stressful and my welds seemed rushed and not very precise, especially when compared to the OA.Here are my concerns: *That the electricity (and gas) consumption of a mig (both 110v or 220v) will cost more in the long run than the cost of OA gas refills. *The different wire types, thicknesses etc. will be a hassle to change out compared to the welding tips on the OA torch, and will be less convenient when I run out or need another size of wire, whereas I will half all the OA tips I need in my setup, and the only consumable is the gas.I was looking at the DHC 2000 (dillon/henrob/cobra) for the OA torch, and was pretty much set on that until was doing some research on cheap 110v MIGs. I came across a thread that said some good things about the Eastwood 135v welder and at $300 ($500 for a 175amp one with a spool gun), it is in my price range when I factor in a helmet and gas bottle. The OA will be more expensive initially given the 2 different options I have chosen.I don't see myself welding thicker than 1/4in, but the 110v seem like they would struggle with that. Will I be disappointed with a 110v MIG when compared to the OA torch? The only reason I see myself getting a MIG is to save money right away and just get my current projects done, but I'm afraid I'll "grow out" of it sooner.I chose the DHC 2000 setup for OA because it has everything I need, and even if I never use it to do aluminum or cast, or sheet metal which seems to be the DHC 2000's claim to fame, it is still cheaper than a mid-range victor setup. A bonus is that it can cut, but I do not fab enough (yet?) to have that be a deciding factor over MIG, as a hacksaw and grinder work fine.Sorry if my post jumped around a lot, I was just trying to get everything on the table.-AlexTLDR: DHC 2000 OA torch for long run or cheap 110v to hold me over for a long time for the basic DIYer. Long term recurring prices are of concern. Budget ~$700Eastwood:DHC 2000:Last edited by nnamssorxela; 12-13-2010 at 09:07 PM.
Reply:I see that you're trying to decide between OA or mig, but what is wrong with tig and stick.  I think your budget is on the low side but you may want to look at ebay for new or used Miller Maxstar 150 stl or a Thermal Arc 160s.  The basic machine usually comes with the stick leads and the tig torch, remote and regulator are separate, or can be bought in kit form.
Reply:I don't remember the TIG I used in class but I believe it was a bit on the expensive side. The thermal arc looks like it will be over $2000 to get started. The OA setup I was looking at was less than $700 with everything but the actual tanks, and the east wood is $300 with everything but a tank.And stick? I bet ray charles has a better chance at threading a needle behind his back than I do at making a decent stick weld...I don't want to spend more than $800 on everything to start off.
Reply:You can pick up Smith O/A kits for $300 and they are a much more versatile option than the Henrob unit.  I would personally go with O/A for a starter set.  There is much more you can do with it than you can a MIG welder, including brazing, heating, cutting, etc...
Reply:When I was searching, I never found any other unit that had all the welding and cutting tips as well as lifetime warranty for that cheap. I also don't want to end up buying a cheaper kit, then spending that much more money on the tips I need as I go, and also having to wait for them. What makes you think that the Henrob is less versatile? I've never used one or even seen one used, but I planned on seeing a demo before I bought one. I'm open to any and all suggestions. Where do you recommend I search for smith?-Alex
Reply:The Thermal Arc 160s can be found on ebay for around $800 but then you still need the tig torch, regulator and tank.  I think in time OA would not be as beneficial as you think and the portability of a small tig would serve you well.
Reply:I just spent a few hours repairing my brothers snow plow that had some rusted out tubing. It was 12 degrees outside and windy. So the garage was the only choice to fix it. I needed both an O/A and a mig machine. The O/A torch, which is a Cobra 2000, was used to heat up and bend the tubing that had to be replaced.The Mig, a Hobart Handler 210, was used to weld in the replacement tubing. I could not have done the job without either of them. .30 Hobart flux core was the choice for wire on this project. O/A has advantages that Mig cannot do. Like heating, bending, brazing, cutting. O/A cannot weld as quickly or cheaper than the Mig does. You need both. They compliment each other. The Cobra torch is awesome.  The Hobart Handler is also awesome.
Reply:Jay, if I could find the thermal arc complete for $800, then we'd be talking! Portability would not be a major concern as it would stay in my garage most of the time. Maybe transported twice a year, but probably not. I would love a TIG but cannot afford one at the moment. And I need to purchase a welder over the next month, or at least by may. Looks like the Thermal Arc 160s can do 110v or 220v? Pretty neat!76 GMC: The reason I was tempted by the henrob was the ability to do thin metal as well as aluminum. I expect that I will be working with cast aluminum manifolds and other bits and apparently the henrob can tackle both the thin metals and the aluminum. I was talking with one of the guys that helped instruct the course I took, and he said that 1/8" was pretty much as thin as it got with OA, though I wasn't sure what exactly he meant by that. I don't know the model of torch we used or the tip. The class was more focused on setting it up, and getting the proper flame.After reading about the henrob, and remembering what my instructor said about the thinness of the metal that could be welded by the standard OA torch, you can imagine my delight when I came across the henrob; I thought I struck gold. Even if other torches could do just as thin of metal, and just as thick, for the price the henrob comes with everything and most of the other kits only seem to come with one or two tips.Like I said however I'm not set on any given rig, I just have yet to find one that appears to be that good for the money.-Alex
Reply:Any torch can weld the thin stuff, you just need the right tip.  Smith medium duty torches can run a tip as small as a #1 (MW201) and that can weld as thin as 18 gage with a skilled operator.  The light duty handle, AW1 and AW1A have a number #0 tip available.  This would be ideal for automotive sheetmetal work.  Victor has some really small tips for their torches.  I have a 000 for a Victor torch at work.  I used it last to braze some 26 gage copper spheres back together.O/A really shines with the thin stuff.  I would call 1/8 inch the upper limit, not the lower, of practicality with O/A.  Welding matierals thicker than 1/8th inch requires great skill, large tips which tend to cook the operator, and long preheat times which can lead to warpage.  It's especially difficult to make T welds or fillet welds with O/A on thicker materials.Last edited by 76GMC1500; 12-13-2010 at 11:22 PM.
Reply:my thought is you are much better off with oa. it is not that hard to weld 1/4" with it..before they stick welded they gas welded, i've seen some beads on 3/8 wall pipe that were just friggin beautiful...i.ve seen fotos of those guys, the torch they used  was pretty large...the henrob claims to use less gas...   a good smith with a few tips and you're good to go. it will teach you tons about heat control, about the puddle, and is veryvery similar to tig. . also that torch can cut ,braze, solder...for a neat option to the henrob, for small stuff, look at the tinmantech site...for " real "  welding (heavier metal, out in the snow, gotta get it done now stuff) get a stick machine......
Reply:I cant imagine that OA would be cheaper than mig electricity and gas.  With OA there is a lot of wasted energy out of the torch tip.  Mig uses pretty much only the energy needed for the weld (except whatever was used to bottle the inert gas). Another nice thing about MIG is there is usually an option to run Flux core.  I seem to use this option more and more lately.
Reply:I am a weekend welder, use it to repair equipment around the property (skid steer, tractor implements etc.).  I looked creafully at MIG, TIG, OA and stick and finally settled on OA for the following reasons which I have proven out over the past year in practice:- bending- brazing (joining dissimilar or nonferrous metals)- weld appearance - no grinding needed- easy to control- no electric - I can drag the torch to the heavy gear that is broken in the field- cutting - no money for plasma, the cutting torch has saved me more than onceI have a few large tanks that last months between refills.  I work mostly with 1/8", but have done much thinner and some thicker stuff as well. Once you get the hang of the torch you can do just about anything you want to.OA is not as fast as other methods, but I am not working on a production shop - I need to fix and fabricate things as situations present themselves so I don't mind going a little slower with the OA.Go OA - you will be happy.  You can always add another process, but you will probably always have a need for the OA rig for cutting, bending and brazing even after you add an electric process.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:You guys sure aren't helping me decide! Good info from both "sides." However I'm still leaning towards OA. What are some of the other torches you recommend if I don't decide on the Henrob?I thought OA was mainly used for the thicker stuff though, not so much on the thin. All I'll probably ever need to do is 1/4 inch or a little thicker, and it seems like that is easily achievable with most torches judging by how it handled the 1/8". The thinnest maybe 1/16" or 16 gauge, but it would be nice to have the option to do some sheet metal work as well later down the line.I spoke to a guy with a henrob and he said it would do 1/4 no problem. Again, like I mentioned earlier, I don't want to get stuck with a torch that will only do a small range of material, and then have to buy another torch for the smaller or thicker. Or buy a torch, then end up getting a mig or tig for aluminum. Again, I'm not pretending I know what's better or what I want. I'm new to welding and need all the guidance I can get.Thanks again, I appreciate all of the input.-AlexEDIT: Also, weld speed and portability aren't really a concern, I liked the speed of OA because I feel like I had more control. MIG I felt a little rushed, but since it was my first time welding, I suppose that's only natural.Last edited by nnamssorxela; 12-14-2010 at 09:42 AM.
Reply:If you go with O/A.  You'll probably want two torches.  One large torch for use with a cutting attachment and a rosebud (and maybe a large welding tip), and one small torch just for use with welding tips.  I only have a larger torch.  It's a pain when you're welding small stuff and you're trying to point the flame precisely.  I'm considering buying the smith aw1a to complement the large torchDynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:Where are you located?Go to the user CP and enter your Location.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Edited my profile broccoliThinking OA is the way to go, but I'm tending to stray from the henrob, but it's still a major contender at this point. I need to use one though. I'm looking for the cheapest, most versatile option, but don't mind paying a little* extra for a quality setup.-Alex
Reply:The TA 160s is a DC tigger only- so no Aloominum with that machineand speaking of Aloominum good luck with the O/AYou should get the DVD from Tinman techhttp://www.tinmantech.com/Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:YOu sound really concerned about the torch size, the torch TIP is the thing you you change depending on material thickness.  Each tip for Victor torches can be a little expensive (depending on your taste).  The same torch that I have handles thin sheet metal and the common 1/8"-1/4" structural stuff that I do.I agree that a smaller torch body helps for stuff that I think of as jewelry, but the bottom line is that you simply screw on a different size tip and adjust your regulator to match the material thickness.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:gwiley, I'm concerned about torch size because I hear so much about not being able to weld this or that because the torch is too small, or not having the precision to weld this or that because the torch is too big. I don't need to weld pin heads together, and I don't need to weld 1" steel plate either. If torch size doesn't matter, why do they make different sizes? I'm becoming more and more unsure of myself as this goes on.Ok, maybe I should start fresh, because at this point I'm confused about the capabilities of each machine and the subcategories of each.The criteria:*welds 1/16 or thinner*welds 1/4 or thinner*less than $700 without tanks*lifetime warranty is nice*ability to weld aluminum would be niceThings to consider*long term operating costs*availability of parts*portability could be nice*I probably won't ever need to cut much, and even then, 1" thick will probably be plenty....More thing to consider:*I'm new to welding and I don't know what's out there.*I have next to no experience.*I'm a hobbyist and speed of production doesn't really matter*I do not own a shop, only a garage with some of the mechanics essentials, nothing for fabrication but a hacksaw, hammer, and propane torch.*I'd prefer to make one investment, and have it last me a long time.Given the above what would you consider buying?-Alex
Reply:Originally Posted by nnamssorxelaIf torch size doesn't matter, why do they make different sizes? Given the above what would you consider buying?-Alex
Reply:http://store.cyberweld.com/smwecuouto.htmlor something similar$210.00Buy tips as needed.Have you priced O/A tanks yet? $$$not those little HVAC kits at Home Depot but decent sized tanks?Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:I should have been more clear.  If you get a "medium duty" torch body (I have the Victor setup) then you can do very thin and pretty thick without any problems. Torch size becomes a factor if you will be doing mostly very large thickness (which it sounds like you are not). A larger torch body can be annoying if you will spend on a lot of time on very thin material which it sounds as though you are not.So I say something like the Victor 250 that I have would be a good fit.  A set from Tractor Supply with everything but the tanks is $199 (includes cutting tips and a few welding tips).Tip size MUST match metal thickness using the manufacturer tables.  Each tip size normally has a fairly narrow range in which it will work, too large a tip and you burn the metal up, too small and it never gets hot enough to weld.I have victor tips 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 and those cover everything I have run into from the thinest sheet my skill can handle to 1/4".  These tips all fit the same torch body, and it is capable of flowing for even larger tips but I don't have the skill to work with anything larger than 1/4"It is worth noting that the manufacturer tables for matching tip size, regulator pressure and metal thickness are a starting point - you have to tweak them.  For example I usually move up one size tip when I am welding fillets or corners of angle since the metal is a lot thicker.  If a part is small and I am butt welding I might go down a tip.One really cool thing about OA is that you fine tune the heat by simply moving the torch closer or further away from the work.  You really get to make the weld puddle do EXACTLY what you want.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:Yes unfortunately I have priced tanks. I'm working on that aspect of things
Reply:One other thing - get the video from Northern tool on O/A welding.  It is under $20 I think but is really a great instruction session.  He will get you up and running.  I also learned from a few good books on welding.  The one at Lowes sold near their welders covers OA, TIG, MIG, Stick and is a good beginners book.By the time I found a local welder with the patience to help me I had already conquered the basics of OA welding - he just confirmed what I had taught myself.Go for 200cf tanks or larger - if you go small you will get frustrated at swapping them out and will be limited when you need to do a long cutting session.  I rent mine pretty cheap from the LWS.OA is great for aluminum, but you really need to master welding steel first I think - aluminum is less forgiving and involves special shades (extra $$$).You will need real gloves - don't go TIG sheepskin or other thin ones to start with, get something like stick gloves until you learn how freaking hot OA makes stuff.  Also get a passive #5 (anything darker like the #10 that is common will make the work invisible to you) shade helmet ($30 at cyberweld.com) - goggles work fine, but the first time your inner cone touches the puddle and blows molten metal all over you you will wish you had a full face shield.Buy steel from a local distributor, not Lowes.  You will save tons of money by getting to know the guys that sell to the construction companies and professional welders.  Just look in the yellow pages for steel distributors and go buy a bunch of angle iron to start with.OA is all about practice.  Learn on metal you can afford to throw away.  Practice each new technique or joint BEFORE you put the torch to something valuable.  That has saved me more than once when I discover that I choose too hot a tip or didn't realize that the joint I designed is too narrow to weld without popping molten metal all over the place.OA is safe if proper technique is used, dangerous if you get sloppy.  Be religious about the safety tips you read/learn from video.  Ask questions here when in doubt.The hardest part is getting the neutral flame right - there a lot of threads on that here - the video I recommended is one of the best for learning this.  until you get the hang of finding a neutral flame nothing will work.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:Thought I might as well throw up a couple pics because it seems like you guys can tell a ton from just a picture!This was my very first OA bead ever. Fusion, no filler.Second weld. My first time using filler. And the gap between the plates was about the thickness of the metal:It was very hard for me to get used to dipping something in the weld puddle. I also kept blowing out the edges of the weld and had to keep coming back with the filler to bridge the gap.Third OA weld, the second with no filler:And just for your laughs, my very first TIG weld, no filler, sorry for the poor photo:I don't know what make of torch you used for those welds, but you should go buy one. I didn't see much wrong w/ the second no filler weld. IIRC, you took a tig class and as someone said OA isn't that much different from tig. Get the knots out of your undies and go get a good OA setup. It is versatile and you can get a stick, tig or mig later. Only when cutting does OA use a lot of oxygen. When welding they're pretty economical.                                               JMHO,                                                            MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Mike, thanks for the input! I took a general shop class that included welding, which was the reason I took it. We briefly covered stick, MIG, OA, and TIG. The only machine I used for anything other than the outside corner joints on 1/8" (from what I understand this joint is the easiest out there), was the MIG. which I used on 1/4" and some square stock to make a can crusher (tabs/brackets etc..) and it was nice to just kind of squirt it on there, though I'm unsure of the structural integrity of the MIG welds I applied...I just know the thing can crush cans I'm pretty set on OA (I think), but I'm still curious as to what a quality/good/complete kit includes and what I should look to spend on it. I was thinking 80cuft for oxygen, and 40cuft for acetylene to keep it in "budget."-Alex
Reply:I think Smith has the best deals out there with complete starter sets in their medium duty line-up running around $300 through some of the online and Ebay retailers.  Tips are available at most welding shops but not nearely as available as Victor tips.  The price for Smith tips is high, cutting tips are around $12 a piece and welding tips run in the $30-35 range.  There is no line of Chinese knock-offs for Smith.
Reply:I've been using victor for 40 yrs and have no complaints. I've heard the new victors are made on the west side of the pacific now, so can't vouch for their quality. Smith is a good quality outfit and I think they're still made in the USA( someone please correct me if I'm wrong on either). Try renting the tanks at first to see how you like the "mileage" on them.                              MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:if you are going to do any cutting keep the 1/7 rule in mind when you decide what size tanks to get...
Reply:You're a natural with a torch, forget arc welding for now! It will still be here when you can afford to buy more gear!! Here is my side note for the veterans; what is the difference, if any, between Smith and Harris torch quality? I have been stuck in a Victor rut for a while now, but I am keeping my eyes open. Thanks in advance! City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Thanks again for the advice guys!  76GMC: I'll look into Smith and see what I can find.mla: still looking into renting, buying used, and what fillers will let me fill personal tanks, exchange, etc... I can't imagine that once I get the hang of it, that I'll use more than 40cuft of acetylene in a couple weeks? Still researching here.Weldbead: I'm unfamiliar with the 1/7 rule. Does that mean that 7x more oxygen will be used when cutting?Tangle: thanks for the compliments! What do you mean stuck in a victor rut?I'll do some more shopping and post of what I find here.-Alex
Reply:Originally Posted by nnamssorxelaThanks again for the advice guys!  76GMC: I'll look into Smith and see what I can find.mla: still looking into renting, buying used, and what fillers will let me fill personal tanks, exchange, etc... I can't imagine that once I get the hang of it, that I'll use more than 40cuft of acetylene in a couple weeks? Still researching here.Weldbead: I'm unfamiliar with the 1/7 rule. Does that mean that 7x more oxygen will be used when cutting?Tangle: thanks for the compliments! What do you mean stuck in a victor rut?I'll do some more shopping and post of what I find here.-Alex
Reply:alex..the 1/7 rule says you donot withdraw acetylene from its tank at a rate greater than 1/7 of the tanks volume at a time. so if you had a 40 cf acetylene tank you should only withdraw just under 6 cf at a time..that is because the acetylene in the tank is actually dissolved in liquid acetone, and if you exceed that rate you have a danger of the acetone coming out with the gas, causing bad things to happen..btw my  smith book says  6 scfh is what a fairly small cutting tip is rated at. a small rosebud draws  17 , a  welding tip for 1/8 thick draws6 and a welding tip for 1/4" thick draws draws 17...
Reply:Broccoli: thanks, I looked it up on the site you posted.Weldbead: I remembered from class about the acetone, but I had no idea about the flow rate and danger of it exiting the tank. Learn something new every day. They had us more worried about blowing the shop up or shooting ourselves with the regulator adjusting knob How do the little tag along kits work then with the tank being so small?Maybe I should look at getting an 92cuft oxygen and 75cuft acetylene, or maybe 75 for acetylene and 125 for oxygen.Last edited by nnamssorxela; 12-15-2010 at 03:45 PM.
Reply:Hi, First of all, I don't like this talk about not knowing how to weld a certain way and therefore not getting a machine capable of welding that way.  Who cares?  You'll learn.  Millions of others have, you will too.  I'm also a hobbyist welder that is starting to take classes and plans on selling some products on the side.  I'd get the O/A.  You can really do a lot and I like the learning process.  I'll have to admit that some of it is emotional to me, I just like spending time welding with OA because I don't have TIG yet and MIG is kinda boring to me.  Although I started doing "MIG like a TIG" tries and it became more fun.  O/A is fun because you can bend, cut, weld, and braze.  Also, if you have any trouble with needing something to expand by heating, you've got a tool for the job.  The downside is that bigger stuff will warp.  I'm no expert and my OA welds don't look as good as yours, but for me I find that I'm putting in a lot of heat.  Overall though, I find that when I get the chance to TIG, I'm better than most other novices because I have a feel for it through OA.  For my setup I bought some Victor 'medium duty' torches (came with 0 welding tip and a cutting torch end), a large oxy tank (5ft?), shorter acty tank (4ft?) for like $600.  Also, you'll always find a time to use torches.  You're going to get this baby home and find yourself thinking "How did I do anything without this?"  Remember, with MIG you're going to need different tanks for different tasks.  Stainless requires different gas than carbon steel.  Tanks aren't cheap.  Besides, I think it is fun to weld sans electricity.  The MIG or TIG/stick setup really requires 220V.  However, if you're doing AL, you may be mixing two gases that burn too hot.  That may be a better job for MAPP, propane + oxy, propane ,or something else.  What do the more experienced say??The other thing to think about, in my opinion, is that you will be getting a quality torch kit for your budget while you may be getting a less than quality setup in MIG or TIG for that same price.  Of course, the other thing to know is how tanks are leased / bought in your state.  That will have an effect on your cost.  Cheers!Last edited by engineer1984; 12-15-2010 at 04:46 PM.
Reply:The other thing to think about, in my opinion, is that you will be getting a quality torch kit for your budget while you may be getting a less than quality setup in MIG or TIG for that same price.
Reply:Here is a nice new victor setup from Indiana Oxygen Company (cant recommend them enough) for 221 bucks and free shipping.Victor rig at Indiana Oxygen Company
Reply:IOC are an excellent vendor, but I'd defer to the experienced gas weldors on this board who recommend Smith (which is made in USA). Even Smith budget units are nicely built, and the cutting tips get outstanding life despite student abuse where I work. Out of eleven units (ten bought new, one age unknown) we only had to have two cutting attachments serviced in about two years, both apparently due to students partially bashing the tips shut and/or cutting with the wrong pressures! Good stuff.Weldfabulous has Toughcut outfits for around 180 bucks.
Reply:you cannot safely assume that a brand name equates with made in usa.  some major manufactures offer lowerend  sets made in china while the better stuff is usa made and has better warranty..
Reply:Good info on the tanks farmall.Engineer: I'm new at all welding, so I'm not biased against one type or the other. I'm trying to get an outfit that is both functional and economical.I don't mind so much where the kit comes from (USA, China, etc), as long as it has a good warranty, though I prefer long lasting quality over the hassle of exchanging torches time after time even if it is free to do so.I've been doing some basic pricing and here's what I've found:Smith MD-510T/MD-300T also/now called the MC-510T/MC-300T is approximately $300-$350 +another $300 or so of tips in order to weld up to 3/8?Lifetime warranty on torch, and 3 year on regs ~$500-$550 for the whole setup minus tanks.Victor Performer 100FC kit. ~$225-$300. +another $300 or so to weld up to 1" 5yr warranty on torch and regs.~$525-$600 for the whole setup minus tanks.And of course, because I can't let this die:Henrob 2000 ~$600 for everything I need to weld up to 1/2" or maybe 1" minus tanks. (also comes with cutting stuff which I may or may not use)Lifetime warranty on torch and(?) regs
Reply:Go weld up some 3/8" or 1/2' in Class with the O/AEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Hey now, I didn't say that I could or would be welding material that thick, I was just using the manufactures parameters.
Reply:Originally Posted by nnamssorxelaHey now, I didn't say that I could or would be welding material that thick, I was just using the manufactures parameters.
Reply:Brocolli: Thank you for putting up with my persistent stubbornness. It's hard for me to "burn" away my precious, hard earned money without carefully taking everything and option into consideration.I guess my question is this: since the henrob is a "different" design which they claim has a more concentrated, hotter flame that will offer less distortion from heat. Is it worth it? I can choose a henrob kit for under $450 that is comparable to the victor one (in terms of tips etc) which costs $375.Is it worth the $75 extra to get a kit with a full lifetime warranty (one of my main concerns)? Will the way the torch is designed actually help with distortion or at least help with a smaller HAZ, or is it all a bag of bologna and I'm better off buying a traditional OA torch?I just have it in my head that the henrob is a better style of torch, and to me it seems like it would be worth the extra $75 to get a better torch in addition to a lifetime warranty. PLEASE correct me if I am wrong, seriously, I do not mind being corrected...time and time again-Alex
Reply:If you want the Henrob  go ahead.. might as well buy the $600.00 since it is only onefiddy more- it's not like yer buying a piece junk. If you buy a Victor/Smith etc..I wouldn't worry too much about the lack of a  Life Time warranty- not much to go wrong with a Torch anyway. I had my Acy Reg rebuilt for $65.00 but I did get the whole shebang for $240.00 off CL I priced out just the tanks and good lord that's alotta money for some  tanks- I made out good.I can't comment of the design of the Henrob creating less heat distortion, I have never used one.You're creating some fine welds with what you have in school- save some money and buy an affordable O/A and spend the money on Women and BoozeLast edited by Broccoli1; 12-16-2010 at 06:37 PM.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:http://charleston.craigslist.org/tls/2083512442.htmlEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:you cannot safely assume that a brand name equates with made in usa.
Reply:I've been searching craigslist for a while and haven't found hardly anything. Even after you posted that link...I still can't find it. I called the guy and left a message. If he's still got it I'll go check it out. The first thing I'm gonna torch is this darned computerThanks again guys.And a random question. Do you all use standard oxygen gauges, or low pressure? In class we set the oxygen pressure by ear, trying to make it sound as close to the acetylene as possible.
Reply:Here's a possibe deal from Ladson, with Victor torch and regs, etc. He's asking two, so offer about 100.after pointing out that new kits are two bills or so. "Ask" ain't "get" since he offed the cylinders and cart.http://charleston.craigslist.org/tls/2113264216.htmlHere's how I roll, in the form of a crazedlist bookmark with "welder" in the search box. Delete that and use whatever terms you like. I used "cutting torch" to find the link above.http://crazedlist.org/index.cgi?area...&submit=SearchIf crazedlist doesn't work for you as a bookmark, go to the home page for instructions. I use Firefox on my Windows and Linux boxes so I disable referrers per the instructionsLast edited by farmall; 12-16-2010 at 07:43 PM.