Caster actuators for table build

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Title is kind of misleading, but here's the deal.I'm looking to build a table likely 30"x40" out of 1/2 or 5/8" plate.I'd like to be able to move it around with casters, but "lower" the table back onto it's legs for the work so it doesn't want to move around. I find the locking casters still move, and with the force that might be applied to projects (sledge, etc.) it would definitely move.What I want to do is fabricate some sort of simple system wherein I can actuate the casters to kick down, raise up the table and allow me to move it with ease. Something like foot-actuation would be great, to keep the cost down.I have an idea of a leverage kick down but don't know how I could integrate a lock mechanism to keep the casters in the down position. Since the table isn't overly large I don't want a big messy complicated system, and since I'm new to metalworking I'm not familiar with some of the better websites for products and ideas.Thanks!Hobart EZ-Tig newbie.
Reply:Hmmm foot actuation.I was going to suggest a small pneumatic cylinder on each caster, plumbed together to a port on the side of the table.    Attach air hose to lift table, close valve to lock the air in, remove air hose, move table, open valve.
Reply:You might want to study the rolling stairs that the Home Depot employees use to get things down from the top shelves.  They are set up to roll around till they stomp on a pedal which puts the legs on the floor. You might even be able to find a broken one behind one of the stores.
Reply:A guy on here built a large table and used a couple of scissor jacks with a chain drive, pretty simple and effective..tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Originally Posted by anickodeHmmm foot actuation.I was going to suggest a small pneumatic cylinder on each caster, plumbed together to a port on the side of the table.    Attach air hose to lift table, close valve to lock the air in, remove air hose, move table, open valve.
Reply:Originally Posted by tjwillisYou might want to study the rolling stairs that the Home Depot employees use to get things down from the top shelves.  They are set up to roll around till they stomp on a pedal which puts the legs on the floor. You might even be able to find a broken one behind one of the stores.
Reply:Jody from welding tips and tricks made a table for his portaband and put 4 feet on it then at the back made an L bracket and put casters on it that were around 1/16" off the ground so he just lifted up the front and could roll it. Maybe something like that? I'll see if I can find the video.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:the table is gonna be far too heavy for me to lift one end, heh.Hobart EZ-Tig newbie.
Reply:Look for a Desk Mover from Raymond Products, I had an old one and mounted it under the table frame (48x30 table with 1/2 inch top and two shelves) it uses a removable lever that locks in the upright position. It worked well for me with the table and shelves loaded, plenty heavy! The wheels are a tad small so it will drag if the floor isn't pretty clean, but then again I've had issues with much larger casters on my shop floor.
Reply:Do you have a pallet jack available? if yes, can you use it to move the table?if not will the way it works give you some ideas?
Reply:Just read some of the old posts, lots of good ideas.Some use a lever, kind of like a johnson bar on one end with wheels almost touching on the other.I think one slick idea is to have one pair of fixed casters mounted in the center at the balance point. A scissor jack would engage them and the entire table will lift and balance like a teeter totter, easy for one guy to move around, spin in circles do whatever.
Reply:Pardon my MS Paint skillz (sometimes it's easier to sketch ideas in there than in CAD)...Red arrow represents some method to push down and lock the lever bars that the casters are attached to (could be hydraulic, pneumatic, screw, toggle lock, etc).  Note the slot or slide on the one lever bar (if you just pin the ends together, you'd be pissing into the wind trying to get the bars to move down).  If you link the two non-slotted bars together (one on each side of the table), you only need one actuation device (which doesn't necessarily have to go all the way back up to the underside of the tabletop - could put another horizontal bar in there somewhere for its upper mount)... Attached ImagesLast edited by dbotos; 04-24-2012 at 01:06 PM.
Reply:I like Dbotos' set up. It's simple and efficient. I'd use a small hydrollic bottle jack or an old car screw jack. either way, fairly cheap to get and simple to attach. Though it should be pointed out that the "actuator" needs to mounted on pivots both top and bottom to allow for the arch of the caster arms.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:How about using Bauer Clamps, simple, adjustable and will take the weight
Reply:yeah. Dbotos' idea looks like it'll work the best actually.  I'll have to see if I can figure just how much room that will need. If anything I could separate that, use two small bottle jacks mounted upside down. Small 1 ton bottle jacks would be more than enough. That should leave room there for a shelf as well. Shoot, a scissor jack would take up even less space.Hobart EZ-Tig newbie.
Reply:I think intstead of slotting it. I'd mount a small wheel on the slotted side and have it ride under the otherside (maybe use channel) that way it would just ride along the bottom and you wouldn't need to worry about the slot. The weight of the table will push it out of the way when not in use.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:It wouldn't be a quick-and-easy (& no tools) type of thing. But could you maybe use moving casters, like these? http://www.amazon.com/3-Wheeled-Swiv...5308882&sr=8-1Jack up one corner at a time, put a caster under it, move on to the next one. If you had horizontal supports going from one leg to another, you could jack up one one whole side at a time, and install 2. Would add hassle each time you had to move it, but might be simpler to implement (really wouldn't add anything to the table). If it didn't need to be moved often, the trade-off might be worth it. Another thought. This assumes you have solid horizontal cross-members going between the two legs at either end. If, say, the legs were square tubing, you could have sliding pieces over them (larger square tubing, that fits over the smaller legs), connected with their own horizontal cross-member. The inner legs would go up to the table, and have stationary feet. The outer, sliding legs, would have the casters attached. You could use something like a jack at either end of the table. "Raise" the jack, which drives the cross-member with the casters down into the floor, and lifts that end of the table off the ground. See the attached sketch. You might even be able to use something like a vertical threaded rod, instead of a jack. Use it as a jack screw, like how a scissor jack works. You could have the vertical threaded rod go between the stationary cross-member, and the sliding one (preferably with the rod in tension, not compression). That might let you raise/lower the casters with a power drill (or something like an impact gun). I believe that "trick" can be used with a normal scissor jack, too, instead of the hand crank. If you had some cheap jacks, you might be able to use a drill to make it a *powered* raise/lower system  Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerI think intstead of slotting it. I'd mount a small wheel on the slotted side and have it ride under the otherside (maybe use channel) that way it would just ride along the bottom and you wouldn't need to worry about the slot. The weight of the table will push it out of the way when not in use.
Reply:RedOctobyr,I like your idea with the parallel bar that raises and lowers with the casters on it.  Maybe mount a cheap trailer tongue jack with a side-crank handle to raise and lower the bar (outer tube of jack connected to fixed bar, foot of jack connected to sliding bar with casters on it)... Attached Images
Reply:I was going to suggest a small pneumatic cylinder on each caster
Reply:brucerDo you know any more about that table with the scissor jack wheel lift? I have been trying to find it for a bit now with no luck.Thanks SteveIf your not living life on the edge, your taking up too much room!
Reply:Originally Posted by RedOctobyrIt wouldn't be a quick-and-easy (& no tools) type of thing. But could you maybe use moving casters, like these? http://www.amazon.com/3-Wheeled-Swiv...5308882&sr=8-1Jack up one corner at a time, put a caster under it, move on to the next one. If you had horizontal supports going from one leg to another, you could jack up one one whole side at a time, and install 2. Would add hassle each time you had to move it, but might be simpler to implement (really wouldn't add anything to the table). If it didn't need to be moved often, the trade-off might be worth it. Another thought. This assumes you have solid horizontal cross-members going between the two legs at either end. If, say, the legs were square tubing, you could have sliding pieces over them (larger square tubing, that fits over the smaller legs), connected with their own horizontal cross-member. The inner legs would go up to the table, and have stationary feet. The outer, sliding legs, would have the casters attached. You could use something like a jack at either end of the table. "Raise" the jack, which drives the cross-member with the casters down into the floor, and lifts that end of the table off the ground. See the attached sketch. You might even be able to use something like a vertical threaded rod, instead of a jack. Use it as a jack screw, like how a scissor jack works. You could have the vertical threaded rod go between the stationary cross-member, and the sliding one (preferably with the rod in tension, not compression). That might let you raise/lower the casters with a power drill (or something like an impact gun). I believe that "trick" can be used with a normal scissor jack, too, instead of the hand crank. If you had some cheap jacks, you might be able to use a drill to make it a *powered* raise/lower system
Reply:Originally Posted by chimmikethe table is gonna be far too heavy for me to lift one end, heh.
Reply:Originally Posted by R6 RacerbrucerDo you know any more about that table with the scissor jack wheel lift? I have been trying to find it for a bit now with no luck.Thanks Steve
Reply:Thanks for the response brucer I did find it after all.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=61973SteveIf your not living life on the edge, your taking up too much room!