Neew Tractor Drag

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The engineering department (also known as my wife) came up with a plan for a new 3 point drag to keep our horse and cattle lots cleaned up. Put it through the design department (me) and finally to weld, fab, general grunt labor (also me). At the end of the month we are going to the Design2Part show and I'm going to inquire about casting similar points to fit this type of application.This is the framework before adding the drag points. We are going to use mower guards for the points as they are relatively cheap but have held up well on a similar drag we use for the ATV. Was a good project to get some work in on the Scotchman ironworker which performed great. Also put some run time on the Lincoln Classic 300D since it's been idle for quite some time. Al Attached ImagesA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:Good plan,  your lower link pins might be a little too close to the ground.  Most 3 point lower arms won't go that low.  It should break the apples up pretty well.  You might think about making your top link float so it stays flat on the ground.  I use flexable harrows to drag my pasture but wish I had the ability to pick it up for transport, turning and working in to corners and such.  I could build a frame like yours that would be above my flexable sections and lift it with chains.  Thanks for the idea.Dan
Reply:The 3 point type works good as you say for transport and also adds a good ballast weight for the loader operations. Also can leave it on the tractor unless have to get in tight areas.Once the points are installed it will raise up some. If it doesn't work I'm blaming it all on the engineering department. Our existing drag is kind of crude assembly but it's worked over the years. This should give a finer scraping and clean things up a little better. Now it's waiting for the prep and paint department (me again).AlA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:the  center support running to the back should be a chain .and the front bar should pivot to allow the drag to float.miller thunderbolt 250vlincoln square wave tig 175 prolincoln idealarc mig sp250everlast tig 210EXTeverlast power plasma 50chicago electric (hf) 130 tig/90 arcchicago electric 90 amp flux wire3 sets oxy/acet
Reply:That's nice!  I  saw a guy that made something similar.  He used scrap rail road spikes as the "teeth" for his top soil grater.  He too pulled it from a quad ATV.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Never thought of railroad spikes....good idea. This one is for the JD tractor, it's a little over 9 foot wide. The Atv drag is about 3 foot wide. AlA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:After 16 years with the same "engineering/idea dept." I've learned that it's always the fab shops fault 200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Originally Posted by bert the welderAfter 16 years with the same "engineering/idea dept." I've learned that it's always the fab shops fault
Reply:I have to agree with DanD. Very few tractors have the ability to run their lower lift arms on the ground - for good reason. The lower arm balls will be running in dirt and manure. The design is good for a drag pulled by a chain or wire rope. The low pull point keeps it flat on the ground but has disadvantages for directly connecting to a 3PH.If the drag's lift points were vertical, and braced it would make it much easier to hook up, transport, and disconnect. This would require the top link attachment to be higher to maintain the proper Category 1 spacing.As others have stated, the top link attachment would be best attached with a pivot located on the drag's frame. Then an adjustable chain to the back of the drag to allow it to "float" the amount the chain is set to. Lifting the whole apparatus for transport would tighten the chain and hold the rear.If the drag tends to "nose dive" in float mode it would be a simple matter to use the 3PH to raise the leading edge an inch or two. Putting a couple of skids (like ski tips) on the front would also help if this is a problem.Last edited by GWD; 04-27-2012 at 09:47 AM.
Reply:Here's a good examplehttp://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...3574_200053574Some simple mods, and you're there "Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Thanks guys. This drag is somewhat based on the current drag we use. As the pictures shows it's a fairly crude, cobbled together affair.  It has worked well as a solid hook up as the area I'm working  are flat. I only use it for the dry lots which cover about 2 acres or so. The floating design does sound very practical though.The pictures are shown without the points installed so it is shown sitting on the ground. When the points are installed it will rise about 5 or 6". Hopefully that will be enough. Attached ImagesA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010