how do I proctect from spatter?

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I've started my first project, welding the downpipe for my turbo, the pipe that goes from the turbo to the main exhaust. it takes a special V-band to connect to the turbo. My exhaust pipe is 16 gauge, the connector is a little thicker where they would meet. the connector slips inside the pipe as a friction fit then welded in to secure it and prevent leaks.What I want to know is how do I protect the groove in the connector from any possible spatter when doing this? I don't get much at all, but I want some insurance. I was thinking maybe I could smear some of the tip gel on there. also the connector side appears to be SS vs the aluminized steel. I have a Hobart Handler 140 MIG, I'm using a 75/25 mix. I'm pretty sure I can't just use SS wire with the gas I have, and everything is going to get coated and heat wrapped when finished. heres some art for reference.
Reply:I've been doing some digging and I think my answer is going to be to get some 308L wire and tri-mix gas to do this. I haven't found 309L that was recommended, but I'll keep looking.comment thoughts?
Reply:I would not weld your project with the set up you have. You do not have the correct gas.I would tig weld it. No need to worry about spatter with tig.309 filler is for welding stainless steel to carbon steel.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by CinproI've been doing some digging and I think my answer is going to be to get some 308L wire and tri-mix gas to do this. I haven't found 309L that was recommended, but I'll keep looking.comment thoughts?
Reply:exhaust pipe is usually an aluminized metal or some other type designed to resist rusting too. x2 on tig welding as it needs to be air tightTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:x3 on TIG welding.as for splatter, several companies make "anti splatter" spray. even nozzle dip will work. hell in a pinch even wd 40 will work.If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:larphead I like the thinking outside the box thing,keep it up. I think I will have someone TIG this part for me, as I pretty confident in doing the rest.
Reply:Aluminized exhaust steel tube, is miserable to TIG (sputter/spitting/splatter/contaminated electrode/sh*tty weld contamination). Not a nice way--but best way to get rid of aluminized coating is muraticacid--makes it spanking clean. Been there, dun-that.     The Al coating needs to be at least selectively removed from both ID and OD....or you willwish you had. Sanding and grinding still leaves too much AL that screws things up.     309L is available in small quantities from Arc-Zone and maybe even your LWS.You will need to remove the AL coating from any other joint areas ID & OD on other seal tightwelds you're going to attempt to do with MIG, BTW. (Seal tight welds with a 110 MIG are easier said than done--but what the shot could we possiblyknow about that....and you didn't ask. Suggest a few minutes practice.)Blackbird
Reply:Haven't used any because I typically tig most of my stuff but the 308sl  is supposed to wet out better?  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Coat the V-band in a couple layers of tin foil if you're worried about spatter, slide the pipe out of the v-band to leave a small gap (this will promote a flatter, better looking weld) and just weld the damn thing. Practice on some similar scrap till you get the machine set just right and have your technique figured out. I would just use standard ER70s-6 hard mig wire.Last edited by MikeGyver; 08-16-2011 at 04:23 AM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:x2 on masking the critical area (the groove) but domestic tin foil is a little light. One tiny piece of spatter blows a hole; the second one sticks. So use many layers if you use tin foil. Copper foil is better, or stainless (like they use in heat treating ovens) but even masking tape will work OK. Another thing you could do is to cut up a soda can and clamp that all around. That is usually about .010" aluminum and thick enough for resisting burnthrough, but easily thin enough to follow the curve of your workpiece.metalmagpie
Reply:To me Protex original is the gold standard, it'll keep high nickle bugs from sticking to sharp edges (bugs from high nickle electrodes are nasty).Works great with electrode but mig wire doesn't like to burn into it so just paint the area to be protected not the joint.Good for temps up to 1600FMatt
Reply:Don't do it. Vband flanges are not cheap. Why is it special? The only turbos I know that have a slightly off vband size is a holset turbo. Also you need to be careful because the flange will warp and then it will never line up.I tried to do a vband on my o2 housing for one of my first tig projects, it's NOT easy. I ended up shipping it to my fabricator who made all my custom parts and he did that and a elbow on the compressor cover and shipped it back for $50.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Its a Precision Turbo, and apparently they have their own special thing going on. Garret GT series has their own thing too.
Reply:think you would be better off going with a stainless down pipe for a couple more feet then just using a ball socket to attach the tailpipe. why not use stainless all the way back? i know its expensive, but your already messing with turbos, they arent cheap, so why cheap out now?Last edited by brucer; 08-17-2011 at 02:53 AM.tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/