Glueing sheet metal to sheetrock??

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I had a request from a builder I am doing some handrails for, he wants 4'x9'x16ga sheets glued over a sheetrock wall. It is for looks and will rest on the floor but they don't want any screw holes just smooth metal. Anyone have any experience with this or suggestions??
Reply:I use a lot of PL adhesive and suspect it will do what you need.However, you might consider silicone caulk. I use it a lot when I am gluing up stuff that is non structural and is dissimilar. Not really kosher, but it gets the job done.
Reply:http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/12/...n-Adhesive.htm  or similar product should do the trick
Reply:The Loctite product is really good but 3M makes  a "foam" spray adhesive that you spray on both surfaces and then mate the pieces. I've used it on many different matings and have had excellent experience with it. It's readily available thru Home Depot and Lowes. You may rent a weighted roller to ensure a quality bond. Good LuckSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Thanks for the info. I would rather use some fasteners but if they won't cave I will follow your advice. I was thinking a urethane construction adhesive but wanted some opinions. Thanks!
Reply:No matter how strong the bond of adhesive to the sheet metal and to the paper skin of the drywall, the bond between the paper skin and the gypsum material will determine whether the sheet metal stays in place......or not.
Reply:RDWorksIs this to sheet-rock, or to paint?Opus
Reply:I have a friend who has a cafe and we've lined all the kitchen walls that are covered with Sheetrock and covered with stainless steel using the  3M spray foam adhesive and the cafe is 21 years old. The stainless is still attached.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:What do they use to make leaded drywall?I would be concerned if walls have a finish on it. Might be like applying glue to a floury surface. I have used some locktite stuff on counter tops.
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderWhat do they use to make leaded drywall?
Reply:I personally would go with contact cement. Coat both pieces, let dry and stick together.Hobart 125 EZHobart Handler 140Everlast STH 160Generic 210 Amp Welder/GeneratorHobart Air Force 500i plasma cutterChinese 50 amp plasma cutter! Youtube Channel : Henrymac100
Reply:Air duct liner adhesive is a highly adhesive product that's sprayed on, and so is the 3M Foam Adhesive, where you eliminate voids and have a thorough bond. Spraying both surfaces, waiting the time necessary for tackiness, mating the two surfaces and rolling the surface will insure a tight, long lasting bond. If you have questions about the different adhesives do some experimenting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:I'd just use a good grade of 3M contact cement. Call their tech support and get a recommendation. That's what they're there for.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by RDWorksI had a request from a builder I am doing some handrails for, he wants 4'x9'x16ga sheets glued over a sheetrock wall. It is for looks and will rest on the floor but they don't want any screw holes just smooth metal. Anyone have any experience with this or suggestions??
Reply:http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...8457894&rt=rudBubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by Burpeehttp://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...8457894&rt=rud
Reply:I use a lot of 3m77 and it will get soft in higher temps.  3M90 is a stronger bond but will melt some types of foam.  It sticks like crazy so you get 1 shot at getting it in place.  You can use wax paper, wooden dowels to keep the surfaces from touching after the 3M90 is dry to the touch.Another approach would be too use the contact cement in a gallon container.  You use it like mastic.  Put it on with a small notched trowel.http://www.dap.com/product_details.a...=46&SubcatID=8I have used the E6000 and the small notched trowel to glue sheets of 1/16 plastic to drywall. E6000 sticks to anything.http://www.homedepot.com/p/E6000-10-...2021/203279464Buzz.
Reply:Originally Posted by blvdbuzzardI use a lot of 3m77 and it will get soft in higher temps.  3M90 is a stronger bond but will melt some types of foam.  It sticks like crazy so you get 1 shot at getting it in place.  You can use wax paper, wooden dowels to keep the surfaces from touching after the 3M90 is dry to the touch.Another approach would be too use the contact cement in a gallon container.  You use it like mastic.  Put it on with a small notched trowel.http://www.dap.com/product_details.a...=46&SubcatID=8I have used the E6000 and the small notched trowel to glue sheets of 1/16 plastic to drywall. E6000 sticks to anything.http://www.homedepot.com/p/E6000-10-...2021/203279464Buzz.
Reply:That's another concern of mine also, the wall isn't very flat. They want to use thicker metal so it doesn't conform to the waviness too much but that is an issue for me because it may create voids and limited contact for the glue. I'm not sure we will be able to come to a compromise that we will both be happy with.
Reply:Originally Posted by Insaneride...but: FRP glue is fire rated (Fire Rated Panel) ...
Reply:What does FRP stand for?http://acronyms.thefreedictionary.com/FRP
Reply:If you use a glue from a tube, it might not hurt to spread it out with a notched trowel, FRP adhesive would work, they also make glue for laminating white board material to existing walls. Whiteboard material is often foil backed. Talk to a sales rep and get a recommendation from them. I would say that if its not in a humid or wet environment that glue should be more than adequate, heck we glue sheetrock over existing walls all the time without using fasteners.Lead sheetrock is used in X-ray labs and exam rooms where radiation leakage can occur. The lead is usually a layer withing the wall panel itself and comes in 1 piece, it installs and finishes just like other sheetrock only a lot heavier.
Reply:At almost 100 lbs per sheet I would be worried about the strength of the sheetrock bonds to the wall framing as well as to the steel. I think plywood should be used instead of sheetrock. It can be heavily screwed to the wall framing before the steel is glued to it. A contact type cement like that used to bond high pressure laminate to wood should make the bond between the steel and the plywood plenty strong enough to be safe and it's contact properties should make the steel easy to apply. Be sure to clean the steel of all oil residue before applying the contact cement to both the steel and plywood. Wait until the cement is tacky and then apply carefully, since you will only get one shot at this. Be sure to keep them from touching until the steel is positioned correctly. I've never attempted to do a whole wall, but have applied steel to cabinets this way. Just don't let them touch together until you have the steel perfectly positioned. Thin wood strip spacers can help keep them separate. The contact cement won't stick to them if they are clean and dry. Once the steel is positioned and you start the contact atone edge, say the ceiling, you can begin removing the strips and pressing the steel to the plywood a little at a time, until you reach the bottom or opposite end. Use a roller and pressure to force out any air bubbles and get the steel bonded smooth and flat. If you get them mis-aligned during assembly you are on your own.CharleyMiller MM252Miller Bobcat 225NTMiller DialArc HF / DIY Cooler2 Victor O/A TorchsetsMilwaukee 8" Metal SawMilwaukee Dry Cut "Chop" Saw 5 Ton Wallace Gantry Various Grinders, Benders, etc.
Reply:I would join and ask at ContractorTalk.com  .P-lam is manufactured for this application, but it is really pricey.  Your GC does need to provide a perfectly flat and primed surface for any glued sheet (about gypsum association standard ~3).  Contact cement is the standard for p-lam, but if it will work, FRP adhesive is easier to work with.A serious question that needs to be honestly answered is how much will this job cost?  How much will you make?  And what is the liability?  If your application fails to meet the standards of the HO's due to no fault of your, such as a poor provided drywall finish, who is on the hook?  A repair could ruin the GWB, and cost you more than what you were paid for initially.
Reply:NP-1 is good stuff.  If you can kick it off the floor until it dries it will be there.  A horizontal piece of flat bar 1 - 2" x 1/4" or rectangle tube at the top and bottom will make it permanent for sure.  You could drill / counter sink your holes then bondo over and sand smooth & paint.http://www.buildingsystems.basf.com/...tic_NP_1_Copy1A boy. hanging lead. done more that my share of that years ago. Me made lead line paneling and door and frames. Used contact adhesive. The last one we used, before I left that business, was a neoprene  based adhesive. Blue in color, water based. Rolled it on like paint. Cleaned up with water until it dried. You will need to make sure all oil is off the metal and no dust on the sheet rock. For metal I liked the 3m 99 over the 3m 77 spray glue.
Reply:Can't you use screws at the top of the sheet of sheet metal, then cover the line of screws with a strip of molding? Seems to me it needs a strip of molding at the joint to look right anyway.Otherwise, over time, you're going to get gaps in the sheet metal-to sheetrock joint at the top anyway, where dust and birdnests are going to collect and it'll look like crap.
Reply:Originally Posted by CharleyLAt almost 100 lbs per sheet I would be worried about the strength of the sheetrock bonds to the wall framing as well as to the steel. I think plywood should be used instead of sheetrock. It can be heavily screwed to the wall framing before the steel is glued to it. A contact type cement like that used to bond high pressure laminate to wood should make the bond between the steel and the plywood plenty strong enough to be safe and it's contact properties should make the steel easy to apply. Be sure to clean the steel of all oil residue before applying the contact cement to both the steel and plywood. Wait until the cement is tacky and then apply carefully, since you will only get one shot at this. Be sure to keep them from touching until the steel is positioned correctly. I've never attempted to do a whole wall, but have applied steel to cabinets this way. Just don't let them touch together until you have the steel perfectly positioned. Thin wood strip spacers can help keep them separate. The contact cement won't stick to them if they are clean and dry. Once the steel is positioned and you start the contact atone edge, say the ceiling, you can begin removing the strips and pressing the steel to the plywood a little at a time, until you reach the bottom or opposite end. Use a roller and pressure to force out any air bubbles and get the steel bonded smooth and flat. If you get them mis-aligned during assembly you are on your own.Charley
Reply:Originally Posted by ironmangq we hang 12'x5/8 sheetrock with glue only on some not so perfect surfaces and they do not move
Reply:I say polyurethane adhesive (subfloor adhesive), or frp adhesive, I think they are very very similar (like the same exact thing but one comes in a bucket and the other comes in tubes). Spread it with a notched trowel just like they do for FRP. I would definetly not use contact cement, or spray adhesive, or any other instantly bonding method. Chances are, you will need to make adjustments after the sheet is on the wall. Like Pipeliner said, be prepared to support the bottom of the sheet overnight, a couple 16d nails started into the bottom plate with a wedge under the nail comes to mind. Make sure your joints do not line up with the joints in the drywall and it will outlast the rest of the building.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Most of these glue suggestions might work, but how are you going to hold the steel in place until the glue dries? The OP doesn't want any screws or visible attachments for the steel. That's why I suggested contact cement. Once it's up it holds itself in place.CharleyMiller MM252Miller Bobcat 225NTMiller DialArc HF / DIY Cooler2 Victor O/A TorchsetsMilwaukee 8" Metal SawMilwaukee Dry Cut "Chop" Saw 5 Ton Wallace Gantry Various Grinders, Benders, etc.
Reply:Ask the GC for a detail.Your best bet is to decline the job
Reply:I uses RJS.
Reply:maybe liquid nails, comes in a caulk like tube. very strong. very durable.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:You could use liquid nail, but when I did this twice at restaurant I used contact cement. The only problem is when your ready to meet the two sheets you must use wood slats between your sheets, align your sheets really well and start at one end , removing one slat at a time, pressing the sheets together till all of the sheet is attached. Roll entire sheet with at least a one pound hand roller. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by HenrymacI personally would go with contact cement. Coat both pieces, let dry and stick together.
Reply:Originally Posted by Rock knockerWouldn't pass inspection around here
Reply:Originally Posted by ironmangqNot sure where you are, but in these instances it was called for by the architect, only put a couple screws at the top and middle to hold it up for the glue to dry. I've never seen a building inspector care how you hung the sheetrock before,
Reply:Originally Posted by Rock knockerYou must be outside the Western Cordilleran Seismic Belt.  While most building departments no longer have fastener inspections, some do.  All require that the drywall be attached as per the requirements of the American Gypsum Association, so that while it is not a line item on the inspection sheet, a hall way of marginally attached GWB is cause for failing a building inspection