Bobcat (miller) undercarriage / frame

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Well, the Bobcat is going in the back of my truck, so I decided to make a nice frame that's sturdy. I followed Miller's drawing from the user manual, but made it a bit longer, about 1.5" per side lengthwise. I couldn't figure out exactly the best way to do the mounting bolts through channel.The channel is 3" 4.1lb/ft. I had some 2x2x.25" angle laying around, so I trimmed it to fit the channel. So I boxed the end of the channel, and tomorrow use a hole saw to make a hole through the channel, and drill the angle for the mounting bolt. That was the strongest way I could think of making it. I'm thinking of maybe adding a plate to the underside of the holes through the web connecting to the bobcat to box that section up, but I'm not sure if it's necessary. What do you guys think? Leave it the way it is, or trim it to fit 'inside' the channel? I liked the idea of it being raised off the bed by that extra 1/4" because I have a bed mat (made from recycled tires) and I'm not sure if I'll trim it around the welder, or leave it there for some cushioning for the welder. The mat is about 5/8" thick or so. I think if I snug it down the rubber would work well, but I'm worried about it catching on fire or or melting. I still haven't decided if I'm going to mount the bobcat sideways between the wheel wells or straight front to back. I currently have a 24" wide 20" tall full width RKI chest at the back of the bed that's loaded with tools / goodies. I wanted a foot or two of space between the box and bobcat, then have a job box towards the tailgate. The local metal supplier has a special on the Delta 637990. It's 48 wide x 24" deep x 28" tall job box for ~$350 out the door. So I've been thinking about that, because my day-to-day tools take up the rki box 100% and then some spills into the cab  So I'm planning on getting this box..Please don't laugh at my mig welds. I haven't touched the gun in a very long time..030 er70s6 voltage at 8.5 speed 65. I beveled the channel to 3/32" land and about 1/16" gap or so. I got full penetration through it, but still welded it from both sides just in case. I would have tigged it but I just ran out of argon on the last batch of restaurant equipment and haven't had time to go exchange it.Tomorrow I'll pick up some metal primer and paint, some Grade 8 bolts for Bobcat to frame, and frame to truck. Planning on 1/2" for frame to bobcat, and maybe the same for frame to bed, but with a backing plate/spacers out of some 1/4" to help distribute the load. Can anyone post pictures of how exactly they mounted their bobcats into a regular pickup bed? Or what precautions they took to prevent people from backing the bolts off or messing with the control panel? How about running a cable from the vehicle's battery to the Bobcat's for a 1-button jumpstart or even remove the stock battery?So many questions.. chances are I'll wake up at 8am and just do everything one way. Then spend the next 2 weeks redoing everything 10 times Thanks again, pics next postMiller: 200dx, Bobcat 225, Passport, Powermax 45, Milwaukee: Dry Saw, MagDrill, grinders
Reply:Top butt welds will be ground smooth before painting as well as welding the angle iron supports?.. I'll sleep on which way to weld them... Unless someone has anything to say about which way to do it. I was thinking for security to have a hasp go over the bobcat mounting bolts, and either locking or bolting it in place to the frame as another barrier in the way. I am very interested in wiring the bobcat to the vehicle battery though?.. I can just see kids flipping switches in parking lots. I was thinking a good solenoid between the truck battery to the bobcat, and that way I can turn it off in cab, and it won't start... Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2 Attached ImagesMiller: 200dx, Bobcat 225, Passport, Powermax 45, Milwaukee: Dry Saw, MagDrill, grinders
Reply:Instead of a solenoid, just wire one of those battery disconnect switches with the red "key" that you can remove when not in use.  Mount it next to the welder in the bed.
Reply:Why are you even worried about MIG welds or no argon for TIG? All you need is some stick rods and get after it with the Bobcat. Seems appropriate to use it to build the frame for it to sit on.As for the starter switch you could add a key switch inline with the ignition wiring from the stock one. That way no unauthorized people can crank it without the key. Just turn on the key switch and use the stock switch as usual, when done shut down the welder normally then turn off and remove key.
Reply:I haven't stick welded since last year and actually went through a good ~150lb of rods on 2 projects back to back, and never restocked. Most of what I do now days is tig. Stopped by the LWS and picked up a few spools, 30lb of rods, and bolts.I was thinking about a switch in-line with the knob, but was wondering if anyone had run the bobcat electrics off a truck's battery before? That way I don't have to worry about the BobCat ever having a dead battery, and shut off power to it all with a switch. I did get the frame painted with the help of my beautiful assistant, get the bobcat in the back of the bed too. Tomorrow I'm going by the LWS and they're going to lift the welder from the lifting eye, so I can bolt the new frame to it, and bolt it to the truck. Should have pictures tomorrow!Miller: 200dx, Bobcat 225, Passport, Powermax 45, Milwaukee: Dry Saw, MagDrill, grinders
Reply:JohnR, I asked my LWS salesman about hooking cables direct from my truck batt. to my Bobcat and he said they do not recommend it.Their repair guy said it can fry the electronics inside the welder. They don't even want you to jump start it if it's a newer unit. I have jump started mine with no problems. Not sure how true that is but, maybe someone else would have some input.