The Old Gravely Finally Found Something It Couldn't Eat, Cast Welding Inside

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So my old gravely that has eaten, trees, brush, boat anchors, fire hoses, rocks, stumps and small children finally met its match. I was brush hogging behind my shed and the old girl found a piece of 3" pipe with a base plate on it. This is the result.Next post for the save Attached ImagesDisclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Ok here is the save, we dissassambled the housing and ground the crack down to a nice VEE. Everything went in the parts washer and the bearings and seals were pressed out. I pre heated with my turbo torch and drove the grease and oil out. I started with Ni rod and the casting proceeded to tell me to go F myself. I ground out the Ni tacks and proceded to TIG with 309SS. The root took like butter, but the casting was still a dirty whore. Ground the root with interpass heat and proceeded to fill/cap. The next pass welded like a dream, and I threw the whole thing in the rod oven to cool. 12 hours later it is re assembled and no cracks, sometimes I amaze myself. Attached ImagesDisclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Good Save Cast is so fickleBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:wow 309 rod. is this a well known solution or is this classic farm code? I have some cast to repair sitting on my workbench right now. What kind of pre-heat?Local 597
Reply:309 is an old school cast solution, preheat was about 400 and the post heat was in my rod oven at 350 for the rest of the day.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Great save!  I love those ole gravelys
Reply:Wow! Nice job
Reply:Very informative thread - thanks for posting!Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:I started with Ni rod and the casting proceeded to tell me to go F myself.
Reply:Nice fix Tozzi.Brought it back from the Grave(ly) huh? I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea to attach a tab or strap from somewhere near the perimeter of the guard, to the machine's main frame? As a "torque strut" of sorts, so that the repaired casting doesn't have to strain so hard in its second life.Good LuckLast edited by denrep; 05-27-2012 at 12:45 AM.
Reply:that cap did go in beautiful, looks like siliconbronze ...
Reply:First of all, that machine looks freakin awesome.Nice job on the fix, it sounded like you nailed it in the end.
Reply:Good job TozziI hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWelding sometimes I amaze myself.
Reply:Originally Posted by larphead Sorry but this made me laugh Good save. Wonder what that part would cost to replace. IF you could find it.
Reply:I have some cast to repair sitting on my workbench right now.
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingI could have got the whole swivel casting with shaft, gear, and slip clutch for 60 bucks. Gravely stuff is actually quite common if you know where to look.
Reply:It's amazing it's never happened before.  The entire assembly hangs on the casting.What little experience I've had with nickel rod has always been a bit confusing, it always seems that it runs very cold, but it's supposed to run "soft".  I'm always tempted to turn up the amps."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I have had a 309 rod save my tail many times on cast jobs over the years when nothing else seemed to work.  I always keep some stuck back.  Nice repair.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:Interesting and good save.But I'll say that the weld probably should have another cap pass put on, as the bead looks concave right now.And for cast iron, I usually go by "Get it hotter".  400F is just warm.    Shoot for 800-1000F instead.    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Nice repair!I have the same deck on an old L model.The thing is a beast.Eats up all sorts of brush,small trees,rocks,etc.Always wondered what it would take to break that housing.Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingI started with Ni rod and the casting proceeded to tell me to go F myself.
Reply:TozziWelding  -  Looks to good to work.  Let us know when it breaks.   Opus
Reply:Originally Posted by MoonRiseInteresting and good save.But I'll say that the weld probably should have another cap pass put on, as the bead looks concave right now.And for cast iron, I usually go by "Get it hotter".  400F is just warm.    Shoot for 800-1000F instead.
Reply:Originally Posted by jpump5Nice repair!Always wondered what it would take to break that housing.Awesome fix Tozzi and thanks for the blow by blow on the repair. MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:My slip clutch is fine, I just keep it a little tight running a 12 horse Kohler.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."