Inverter stick welding: rods to avoid?

admin

Years ago when learning how to stick weld on an old transformer based machine, I dont recall 7018 being this HARD to run. Running 3/32 7018 on a maxstar 150 STL.  Hard to start, hard to keep lit, and when i get it lit and running the damn slag wont get out of the way.Ive tried any where from 70-100+ amps. Ive tried pushing, pulling, circles, half moons, hell even the good ol 6010 whip.The rod will run very inconsistent for the first inch or so burnt. Almost like a mig gun with a dirty tip or liner. Then it smooths out like the 6013 rods do.So what gives? Is this the brain inside the inverter messing with me or are these rods junk?Btw the rods are OKI Bering 7018s fresh from sealed plastic package.
Reply:I'm not a big fan of inverters, especially the small ones.The light duty cycle drives me nuts. I notice when welding with them compared to transformer styles that they give off a light orange haze to the weld pool.I haven't used those rods, but I run 3/32" 7018 around 95 amps and 10-15% less for vertical using proper arc length.The only way to tell if the machine is messing with you would be to try different rods. I like Excalibur 7018sDid you clean the base metal and have a good ground?Semper FiJesus may have been a Carpenter, but his dad was a Millwright" A grinder and a can of paint, will make a welder what he aint' "I've done so much, with so little, for so long, that now I can do anything with nothing!
Reply:Originally Posted by jontheturboguy Running 3/32 7018 on a maxstar 150 STL.  Hard to start, hard to keep lit, and when i get it lit and running the damn slag wont get out of the way.
Reply:I have a Maxstar 150 STH. AFAIK, the 6010 rod is not recommended but other common ones will work like 6013, 7018, etc.
Reply:it does depend on the machine.  Inverters are known for not running 6010.    7018 does not seem to start well on my lincoln v205t inverter but runs good once it gets going.  My powcon runs 7018 awesome.  One of the nicest stick welders I have ever used.  7018 on the everlast 140st is so so for 1/8" rod but fine for 3/32".   Rick V recently posted up some 7018 bead issues of a transformer machine and it turned out t be the crappy Hobart rods.     Try running ESAB or Lincoln 7018.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Sounds to me like wet rods.  I do all of my stick welding with my Maxstar 150s.My name's not Jim....
Reply:The Maxstar 150 STH I use runs 7018 very well, 6010 on the other hand is like poking yourself in the eye with a stick. It just does not have enough voltage to run 6010 the way you are used to, you need to keep a tight arc, but not to tight because it will snuff out.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:I'm just about a complete newb when it comes to stick welding.  I haven't done anything serious for like 10 years.   Picked up the Maxstar 200 with the DIG control and I can run some pretty decent  beads.  Enough control that I could tack and weld an exhaust system together.6013 ran just fine.  309 stainless was easy and I could run it at a lower current (so as not to burn through).   DIG just about idiot proofs it.   My understanding is that when the voltage at the stinger drops too low, the DIG actually boosts the current - keeping dorks like me from sticking.  I'm pretty sure that if I was running of a Lincoln tombstone would be having a lot more problems.Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:Yeah con_fuse, I have a name for that button, but we won't go there...lol.I prefer to keep the proper arc length and if I hit a spot of bad metal and want to cool the pool for that spot, I can tighten it up until I get past it then get back to the proper length.Semper FiJesus may have been a Carpenter, but his dad was a Millwright" A grinder and a can of paint, will make a welder what he aint' "I've done so much, with so little, for so long, that now I can do anything with nothing!
Reply:Ran some Lincoln 1/8" today. They actually required less amperage than the OKI Bering 3/32 rods and ran fine. Go figure. And for the record, 6010 rods can go eat sh** and die. Hate those things.
Reply:Originally Posted by jontheturboguyIve tried any where from 70-100+ amps.
Reply:Originally Posted by skelley521You used less amps for 1/8" 7018?
Reply:The XMT 304 and 350's cc/cv at work will burn any rod I can throw at em.Never whip 7018, that's a porosity disaster waiting to happen.Last edited by snoeproe; 10-09-2011 at 08:17 AM.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by skelley521Yeah con_fuse, I have a name for that button, but we won't go there...lol.I prefer to keep the proper arc length and if I hit a spot of bad metal and want to cool the pool for that spot, I can tighten it up until I get past it then get back to the proper length.
Reply:problem with rust is its about 3x worse than what you can see.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250