Trailblazer 302 remote

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Hope this is the right spot for this.Can anyone tell me where I can get a remote for a new miller trailblazer 302. I am in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. I've heard of some places that make them as apposed to ordering one from my lws. Does anyone know of any places like that near my location? My purchaser at work is having a hard time finding one so I said I would see what you all had to say.Thanks.
Reply:I remeber one member either here or on Millers board who made some really slick remotes. I think he was up in Canada somewhere. I think I saved a thread link, but it's on my old computer and I'll have to try and dig for it. Been about 2 or 3 years since I remember seeing it. I'm drawing a blank right now who bought the remote and posted it this evening. I'll try to do some digging whan I get time Fri or this weekend..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:cruizer from Edmonton over on the Miller site builds remotes.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:I thought it might have been him last night Duane, but I still haven't dug up the thread I was looking for yet..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Would it be hard to build your own? I would like to have one for my Shopmaster, but that's on the long list. I just got one for the Commander, and when I took off the back, it looked pretty simple. Duane, if you built a wire feeder, I bet you could knock these out in no time. And I bet there would be ALOT of profit!!! Especially, when I get on here telling EVERYONE how great they are. After I test the prototype you send me at no charge!!!"Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:No doubt it's not difficult to build a remote for these units at all Sticky but many times used ones can be had cheap enough to make it not worth the time and materials to do so.  That and many welder owners just aren't comfortable working with any electrical part of their machines other than the welding leads.But, Mega Arc was looking for someone in his area that builds them so . . .Besides, just as I don't plan on going into the custom suitcase feeder business, same would go for remotes but would be more than willing to lend a hand where I could.  Thanks for the vote of confidence just the same and I'll check on that Shopmaster. MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Kristian Electric in Edmonton also builds a remote, has two 110 outlets built into the unit as well.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55No doubt it's not difficult to build a remote for these units at all Sticky but many times used ones can be had cheap enough to make it not worth the time and materials to do so.  That and many welder owners just aren't comfortable working with any electrical part of their machines other than the welding leads.But, Mega Arc was looking for someone in his area that builds them so . . .Besides, just as I don't plan on going into the custom suitcase feeder business, same would go for remotes but would be more than willing to lend a hand where I could.  Thanks for the vote of confidence just the same and I'll check on that Shopmaster.
Reply:It's not hard to build one at all. The problem comes down to the fact that all the parts add up in price. First is the plug for the welder which runs $40-50. Then there's the cord but that can be cheap since you only really need two wires for a standard remote and can thus use a extension cord to make it. Then there's the strain relief, box for the control, a rheostat (also known as a potentiometer or simply pot you need a 1k ohm  IRRC), and a knob for the rheostat.   Then it's simply a matter of hooking the wires to the right prongs on the plug, and rheostat.  All told probably around $100 to make one.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Originally Posted by Mega Arc 5040DDWhat all would a person need to build a remote for this machine? Not saying I'm going to go and build one but if it is simple enough I might at least look in to the idea. What can I say you have peeked my curiosity
Reply:Actually, a 5-conductor is needed as a minimum and 6 to make it "legal".  2 for contactor control (toggle switch), 3 for voltage/amperage control (potentiometer) and 1 for a safety ground (because contactor control is AC).The necessary plug can usually be had for a little less http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPHENOL-MS-...item336d897740 and even less if you're patient and check often.You'll also need one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/150673707442...84.m1438.l2649 if not already on the plug assembly.irish is spot on with the 1K pot which should be a 2 watt with 1/4" shaft and 1 turn (312 degrees is typical) such as one like this http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=7531305. . . and so on and so on.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWFirst you need a Duane... Unfortunately I don't believe they are native to Canada, so you may have to import one from it's native Texas... You may be able to lure one north from it's native habitat if you use the right bait. They are known to have a weak spot for deals on used machines that need repairs.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Actually, a 5-conductor is needed as a minimum and 6 to make it "legal".  2 for contactor control (toggle switch), 3 for voltage/amperage control (potentiometer) and 1 for a safety ground (because contactor control is AC).The necessary plug can usually be had for a little less http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPHENOL-MS-...item336d897740 and even less if you're patient and check often.You'll also need one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/150673707442...84.m1438.l2649 if not already on the plug assembly.irish is spot on with the 1K pot which should be a 2 watt with 1/4" shaft and 1 turn (312 degrees is typical) such as one like this http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=7531305. . . and so on and so on.
Reply:Good point.  Definately depends on exactly what Mega wants it to do. MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Nope don't want to get fancy or do I   ok not fancy just want to be able to adjust the amps from on top of a rail car with out getting down or screaming at someone. Although a plug in for the grinder would be cool.
Reply:Well, the 115VAC feed to the 14-pin is protected by CB3 for the 115VAC duplex outlet so it is possible.  However, you would need to be sure you size the cable properly for its length.Nothing under 14ga.for sure.  You could use two 3-conductor SO cables and the one for the potentiometer can even be 16ga.Make either one a 4-conductor and you can add 115VAC contactor ON/OFF control so you can lay the stinger down without worrying about it shorting to the work when you're using the grinder. MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:You can do what I'm doing with mine right now. That's using a extension cord as remote cord. I put a plug on my remote and since my welder doesn't have the 14pin remote I wired it with a standard outlet. Thus I don't have a big cord to store with my remote. I just plug in the extension cord to the welder and the remote on the other end. You could make a adapter plug that goes from the 14pin to a standard 115 plug. Add a male plug to your remote. Then your flexible and can use what ever length extension cord you need to get the remote there or if you're not using the remote the extension cord is available for normal use.   Here's the only shot I've got of my remote at the moment. I threw it together the night before I had a big job at the quarry where I needed it. I just used what I could find to get it done. One of these days I plan on redoing it a little better but it's been to busy around here for me to think about that yet. Since my welder needed the heavy duty rheostat I needed a box with some cooling ventilation. The old power supply box was the best I could find on short notice. I used a cord off a old burned up grinder for the lead. I'd already put the switch and plug in my welder earlier when working on it. I'll have to see if I can find some shots of what I did there. I can't remember if I took pics or not. Attached ImagesMillermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Nice recycling use of that enclosure. MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Well, the 115VAC feed to the 14-pin is protected by CB3 for the 115VAC duplex outlet so it is possible.  However, you would need to be sure you size the cable properly for its length.Nothing under 14ga.for sure.  You could use two 3-conductor SO cables and the one for the potentiometer can even be 16ga.Make either one a 4-conductor and you can add 115VAC contactor ON/OFF control so you can lay the stinger down without worrying about it shorting to the work when you're using the grinder.
Reply:there is couple of used RHC-14 on flea bay --(75.00 and 100.00and one new PRHC-14 (((high bux new now a year or two back was one shown (home made) on the web here but can't find right offidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:$75 isn't a bad price in lieu of building.  I got one for $60 once.  They're out there if you're patient and keep an eye out.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Ok. Pulled up the newest Trailblazer 302 manual. Here's what it lists for the remote connector.Socket A on the plug - 24 volts AC Protected by CB4Socket B on the plug - Contact closure with A completes circuit (in other words a switch wired between these two contacts will act as a on and off contactor for the welder)Socket I on the plug - 115 volts AC protected by CB3 (it's possible you could run a grinder off this but I don't know that for sure)Socket J on the plug - Contact clusure with I completes 115 volt contactor circuit (in other words you can use this instead of the above to turn the welder on and off)Socket C on the plug - +10 volts DC output to remote controlSocket D on the plug - remote circuit commonSocket E on the plug - 0 to +10 volts dc input command signal from remote (these three are used for the remote amperage control) I'll skip sockets F and H since they don't pertain to thisSocket G on the plug - circuit common for 24 and 115 volts AC circuits (this is the common or some would improperly say ground for the two AC sources, use this in conjunction with socket I to allow the possible running of a grinder) Socket K on the plug - chassis common (in other words use this for safety ground to the case of the remote if you decide to run 115 volts AC out to it).   Now in theory you could run socket I out to the remote to provide power for both the grinder and the contactor. Next run J for the contactor switch, G for the common on the grinder, K for safety, and C,D, and E for the remote. This adds up to 7 wires for a legal and safe remote that will run a grinder and do complete control of the welder. At least two of those wires would need to be heavy enough to run the grinder. (personally I don't think I'd feel safe running that much current through the remote plug)  Option two is to just run wires from A and B for contact closure, and C,D, and E for remote amperage control. Since you're not running 115 volts to the remote K is optional but probably recommended anyway. That would allow for either a 5 or 6 wire cable all of which could be light gauge since there's no real current draw on any of this.   Option three is the simple remote amperage control as I discussed before. That just needs 3 wires connected to C,D, and E. Nothing more than +10 volts DC in the remote so the K safety ground not required though as before it would be a good idea for other possible reasons such as the box shorting to something hot at the same time that the 10 volt circuit is shorting to the box.   Option four is the way I'd go about doing the full blown deluxe remote. Run either the 115 volt or the 24 volt contact closure circuits doesn't matter which, run the 3 wires for the amperage remote, then run 3 wires for the extension cord but instead of hooking them in at the remote plug have a pigtail come off with a standard 115v plug and plug it into the outlet on the welder. This would require 8 wires as mentioned with 3 of them needing to be heavy gauge. Probably the easiest way here is to just take a extension cord and tape a 5 wire light gauge cord to the side of it. The only real advantage is that there's only on bundled cord to run to the work site instead of a separate extension and remote cord. Though I must admit that would be helpful sometimes. It sometimes looks like a spiders web of wires and hoses running down when I'm working off a man lift.Last edited by irish fixit; 11-05-2011 at 05:59 PM.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:100% correct and exactly how I was thinking.Note - Watch the current 302 manual schematics.  The one for the AC/DC unit has been confirmed to have two of the 14-pin circuits mis-labeled.  J and F function references are reversed.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Nice recycling use of that enclosure.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55100% correct and exactly how I was thinking.Note - Watch the current 302 manual schematics.  The one for the AC/DC unit has been confirmed to have two of the 14-pin circuits mis-labeled.  J and F function references are reversed.By the time you are done screwing around, and buy parts it is cheaper to buy one.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:That's the good thing about the 14-pin being the same across the board and how I caught it in the previous edition of OM-4426 (AB - 04-2010).  I let Miller know about it but it was either too late for the current edition update or they still missed it.  ??? Unfortuanately, it's not the first manual error that has been found.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingBy the time you are done screwing around, and buy parts it is cheaper to buy one.
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingBy the time you are done screwing around, and buy parts it is cheaper to buy one.
Reply:Here's the one I made for the dyn200.  It should work on any miller 14pin.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=59348It was cheap for me since I already had all the parts laying around except the 14pin connector.  I like building this sort of stuff anyway.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:That was pretty cool and inspiring.