Cut small bit off wood stove opening

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Hi!So I have a sell wood stove insert that needed a new door.The door, despite being for the make, model and year of my stove does not close correctly.Basically, the 1" latch holding the door handle is just a little too far to the left, so it just skims the opening, but enough that the door cannot be closed completely. Even without the door handle, the door will still catch on the side of the stove.While I wait for a solution for manufacture, 3 weeks now, I thought maybe I could just shave off like 1-2 millimeters at the junction so that the door will freely open and close.My stove is an Earth-Stone BV4000Any ideas??
Reply:If it were just the nut I wouldn't think twice about grinding it down.  But if it is the whole side of the door I would start by looking for some adjustability on the hinge side of the door and if the hinge side can't be adjusted I would probably wait on the manufacturer unless you just want this door to work and don't care about getting one from the factory that works right out of the box.
Reply:Grind it.Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221  True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:Looks New?Take it back to the "Box Store" where it was bought?I can see that the door gasket doesn't look heated plus the nut/latch isn't discolored/dirty which is how I am making my observation.
Reply:If it were mine....Say "Bye Bye" to the nut....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by FernTJIf it were just the nut I wouldn't think twice about grinding it down.  But if it is the whole side of the door I would start by looking for some adjustability on the hinge side of the door and if the hinge side can't be adjusted I would probably wait on the manufacturer unless you just want this door to work and don't care about getting one from the factory that works right out of the box.
Reply:I don't think it's the entire side. Basically just a small part where the door handle section hits.  Probably about 1" long, and I swear, just a tinny bit to grind off.I just don't know how I would go about grinding it off - what would I need?
Reply:Originally Posted by gilbertr2412I don't think it's the entire side. Basically just a small part where the door handle section hits.  Probably about 1" long, and I swear, just a tinny bit to grind off.I just don't know how I would go about grinding it off - what would I need?
Reply:Really?2000Doesn't look used much.Definitely hit it with a Grinder or if you don't have one, use a File.Door Frame or Latch/Nut, its your call on which is easiest.
Reply:The door is new, the rest is pretty well worn.Thanks for everyone's suggestions - going to run out to Lowes for grinder info!
Reply:A mill bastard hand file and 20 minutes would solve this for you quickly and cheaply.
Reply:Originally Posted by DeuceTrinalA mill bastard hand file and 20 minutes would solve this for you quickly and cheaply.
Reply:gilbertr, where (city) do you live?  If by chance you're close to me and you're not an axe-murdering psychopath, I'll PM you with directions to the shop and take care of the door for free in about 5 minutes. Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Well, I was able to buy a $9.00 metal grinding attachment for my Dremel that did the trick in about 10 minutes!Thank you to everyone for your suggestions - they put on the right path to resolution, and just in time for the single digit temps this week!!