Need some tig help

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Hey guys, I was on here a while ago, I had bought a miller econotig, Anyways I just purchased the AHP alpha tig 200xSo far I like itI have been trying to weld aluminumAnd I have some questions and concerns I would like some help on.So this is what I'm welding16 guage 4" tubing(scrap) I've cleaned it up with a ss brush I'm on ac E3 purple tungstenHere are my settings I'm on Start amps-50Main amps 25Pulse amps 15End amps 12Pulse freq 2Pulse time on 50Post flow about 50%Ac balance 25% more clean I'm on tig, ac, 4t, squarewave, hand triggerWhen I have my amps up to spec( what they should be) around 65 (for 16g aluminum)It seems like it just melts away so fast, it's not a controlled puddle, also sometimes the tungsten, balls up or decengrates, Another concern, I may be getting ahead of myself but I figure I throw this in there... When I try to join to peice of tuning together it just wants to melt????Sent from my Stage 28 IPhone
Reply:Turn the pulse off.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Start hot and move fast.Easier said than done, but that is what I've been working on and it is the only way to successfully TIG aluminum.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Turn pulse off and set the amps around 80.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:I'll try it tommorow, Kevin Carson also said in one of his videos to use 75% negative(cleaning action)?Sent from my Stage 28 IPhone
Reply:How do you like the E3 tungsten? I bought a scratch start tig rig from Praxair and it came in with one free so are they any good?Lincoln pro core 125 14''chop saw7 inch grinder,2-4.5 inch grinders,electric die grinder.Half inch drillAnd alot of hand tools
Reply:Originally Posted by wbrett1027I'll try it tommorow, Kevin Carson also said in one of his videos to use 75% negative(cleaning action)?Sent from my Stage 28 IPhone
Reply:Originally Posted by flux core joeHow do you like the E3 tungsten? I bought a scratch start tig rig from Praxair and it came in with one free so are they any good?
Reply:I'd turn off the 4T settings as well.  Too much going on there to figure out what going on.  Too many variables.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Originally Posted by flux core joeHow do you like the E3 tungsten? I bought a scratch start tig rig from Praxair and it came in with one free so are they any good?
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugThe positive side of the arc is for cleaning. 75% electrode negative should be fine unless the aluminum is a little dirty.
Reply:I think it was said before.  When the electrode is negative, the electrons are basically going toward the work piece and heat the work piece.  When the electrode is positive, the electrode is the item that gets hot.  75% negative, 25% positive is a typical good starting point.As for pulse.  If you mean 2 as in 2 Hz or twice a second, that is a pretty fast rate.  Aluminum really requires a consistent pace.  If you are using the pulser to pace you, you want to set it to something like .5 or .7 until you get good at it.  A setting of .5 means 1 pulse every 2 seconds.  Enough time to count in your head 1 2 3 4  or move -form puddle - dip in - dip out    Personally I find my "on time" is better with higher amps and shorter duration - my 'move' is less precise and take longer - so for me, 35 - 40% on time seemed to work well enough - that's just my preference.As for 4T - don't bother.  That's why you have a pedal.  You'll want to start fast so find the setting that will allow you to mash the pedal - 100% or nearly 100% - rapidly forming the first puddle (instantly?)   As the aluminum gets hotter, you might want to back off a bit.  Your sample welds show signs of getting too hot at the end - especially as you neared the edges.When you get comfortable, either turn off the pulse and do everything with the pedal  increase the pulse rate and see just how comfortable you are.To make really nice looking welds, you need to be very consistent.  First do it well, then do it constantly well.  That requires long travel distances and moving the hands and feet in smooth coordination.Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:Starting to get the hang of it guys! Thanks practice makes perfect Sent from my Stage 28 IPhone
Reply:That looks much better, what were your settings this time?Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Hell with the pulse ive never had a need for it. Im not sure on the tungsten I would just use 2% thoriated never had a problem with it. Somewhere around 100 amp don't be scared of the heat. Mash the pedal to get the puddle going and just start feeding that wire alum. seems to eat up filler like crazy. Then its just practice. Welding is only as hard as you make it don't over complicate the situation at hand.
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugThat looks much better, what were your settings this time?