Welding Table Clamps

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Hi everyone! First post. I am a restorer of vintage cars and love welding. Spend lots of time perusing your forums to learn new stuff. I just built a welding table and did it by reading the MANY posts on welding tables on the forums. Part of the process was the 3/4 slots on the table to be used for table clamps. Miller sells those 5 and 6 inch clamps for this purpose at around $50 each, but I am wondering if there is a better solution. Does anyone have homemade solutions or something that is more versatile?Thanks to all for the great posts/entertainment! Devewww.speedprint.com/Deves50
Reply:I  have used the drill press type and a vise grip type too. You can buy the cheap HF ones and ok but not heavy duty. I use the vise grip type on my HF band saw too.http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...79619CC8971051  screw typehttp://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-...amp-36221.htmlhttp://www.woodworkingshop.com/produ...?inMed=MSSTORE
Reply:Well, to save some money ont those high priced clamps, you could always get some decent quality C clamps, cut the bottm leg off them and weld a base to it that fits into the slot for the cantilever. I find that the HF clamps suck, I've broken 2 of them. Keep an eye on CL, etc for decent quality USA made clamps, they're usually cheap and certainly high quality. You could also consider drilling and tapping a series of holes for clamping with threaded rod and a variety of steel, short and long a la machinist style T-slot clamping and great for holding large pieces if your table is thick enough and also versatile enough to clamp angle plates for 3 axis fitups. Rent a mag-drill for the weekend for nice square work.  Here' a link for  photos of a holy table:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...light=clampingThis thread has fotos of mag-drill and stronghand clamps, interesting clamps, put as few or as many holes as you want:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...light=clampingMid table clamping discussion + photos modify this idea for threaded holes:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...light=clampingAnd here's a neat idea to consider/extrapolate, same basic idea behind threaded holes, make your own fixtures as needed:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...light=clampingAlso search clamping or clamps on this site for other interesing ideas. Be interesting to hear which direction you decide, when I build my table, it's going to be threaded holes, I have all the parts, just no room to put it. Now, where is that 'how to clean out your garage' thread?  Last edited by bearston; 07-04-2012 at 10:08 AM.When a welder tells you to "stick it", what do they really mean?"In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act." - George Orwell
Reply:I look at it this way..You can't have too many clamps of every length shape and form..Eventually you will need one.Or two....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I'm with Zap on this.  Clamps are liked beer no matter how much/many you have you will need more.
Reply:If the slots are 3/4" wide, a cheap and effective route is good old pipe clamps. 1/2" will fit the slots. different lengths of pipe allow different heights and they slide and turn anywhere along the slots. The non-clamping end goes to the underside of the slot to give course adjustment. Feed the pipe through the slot into this end. You can weld on clamping accessories to the clamp faces for specific tasks, i.e. clamping down pipe. Hella cheaper than $50 for the Miller ones and you can have more! C-clamp vise grips will fit in the slots too( the non swivel pad style). Or make your own off-set clamps(not sure if that is the common name). 3" bit of 1"-1 1/2" angle, drill a 1/2" hole and weld on a 1/2" nut(inside off the angle). This goes on the underside of the table. Take another piece of angle, 6-8" and drill a hole big enough to give some play. Put a 1/2" bolt through this hole with a couple washers. The hole can be off center for cantilevered pressure. The bolt can be as long as you need. Like wise for the top angle to give you more clamping depth. 1/8" angle would work for general stuff, 3/16" or 1/4" for the heavy "must not budge" jobs. Could use 5/8ths nuts and bolts too for more umph. When clamping, you can place a bit of scrap under the opposite side from the piece being clamped down to cantilever the clamp.Any how.....cheap and easy can be a good way to goLast edited by bert the welder; 07-05-2012 at 01:45 PM.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Also a set of milling machine clamps with T nuts, bolts, step blocks, clamp bars etc can be very useful. Sets come in different sizes to match various T slot widths.http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:You guys are great! I am working thru the gazillions of posts on this site and am learning so much! The info you have provided is super and has given me some new ideas. Tell me.. the HF C clamps. If I cut them, make a base for them, they would probably do until they break, but what about the steel they use. Is it cast iron or actual mild steel that I can weld a base on? There was a thread on here that I cant find that had such a system, but I wondered if the metal was ok to weld on.As a woodworker and very excited about metal working, clamps are something that you can never get enough of, but with 3/4 slots, I want to really take advantage of the slots and have most applications covered. I am also looking into the Lazze workholding jig (google that) and what I need to make some of those. This is all so exciting!!Thanks again all!Devewww.speedprint.com/Deves50
Reply:Check this out, a whole page of  clamps.http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...amps&FORM=IGREHere's my favorite Bessey 90 clamps. Costly but time savers.http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...C731&first=106
Reply:One on my favorite clamps Attached Images
Reply:Never had any luck with trying to make anything with the cheap HF C clamps. They'll "weld", but as soon as you put pressure on them they snap just past the weld. Looks like some kind of cast $hit. Never had any similar issues if we used decent clamps like Bessy's or another steel clamp. Personally I wouldn't waste the money on HF clamps. I just keep my eyes open at yard sales, flea markets and the used tool store and pick up decent clamps cheap when I find them..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I just came into 4 stronghand 20 inch clamps - not sure if its love or lust yet, but the are now on the top of my clamp pileWhen any government, or any church for that matter, undertakes to say to its subjects, "This you may not read, this you must not see, this you are forbidden to know," the end result is tyranny and oppression, no matter how holy the motives.
Reply:This is all very good info, thanks to all, but it seems to me with all of these welding table posts, and the popularity of the 3/4" slotted table top, someone would have thought up a nice effective clamp for their use. So, put on your thinking caps girls!!Seems since the starting point for this slot is inch and a quarter hole, a round, 1 inch disk (for the underside) machined with a 5/8" disk (riding in the slot) with a half inch threaded hole in the center for a base, then different clamping mechanisms for the top.. I dunno!! Im an amatuer here!! Thanks again!
Reply:I'm wondering why Strong Hands or someone hasn't come up with a clamp with one of the 600 − 1000 lb (on/off) magnetic base on their clamps???? Put it any place on the table and turn it on...... wait......did I just give away my 'bazillion dollar' idea?I'll be wanting a 'royalty' payment from anyone who uses this idea!!!!!!!!!Last edited by dback; 07-08-2012 at 06:33 PM.
Reply:There's a thread on the magnetic clamps here too. Here's what "MICK" posted and they aregreat. Amazon had them the cheapest when I purchased. Real handy and are on/off type.[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Magswitch-MAGSQUARE-150-MagSquare/dp/B007Q6YPVG[/ame]
Reply:I've got a couple of the square (on/off) magnets and love them. What I was thinking was the exact same magnet but the on/off switch would be the "rod" portion of the Strong Hands clamp rising 6 or 8 inches with the adjustable arm and tightening screw. Good project for some very talented individual on here to try........Zap???? Sure is gonna be an expensive clamp. Very pricey magnet + cut off "F" portion of very pricey 8" Strong Hands to leave only straight portion of clamp to be welded to switch of magnet + cost of welding = a maybe not so good idea.
Reply:I would think with all this talent, and the fact that 3/4" slots (1-1/4" starting hole) is so commonly used, we could come up with a nice solution like the miller clamps but cheaper and more DIY friendly. I see no future in magnets since that affects the work as well as the myriad of tools/clamps on the table already. Strong seems to be happy with the 'top with all the holes in it' idea, so no help there. Let's see where this goes with all this talent.. I have read hundreds of posts here, and am convinced we have the brains to figure this out. Thanks guys!