Obsessed with Aluminum......

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So.... I learned to TIG about 6 months or so ago...... I love it.....I saw a post on Garage Journal (I'm erockguide.... a lurker... over there)...... in the fabrication thread of a guy who built a cart for his plasma cutter... it was nice...... made from steel.....So I went to Westbrook metals looking for steel to make one of my own.... but I happen to find a bunch of nicely cut drop in the Aluminum section.......Not just Aluminum.... but 1" round stock......Now... I'm a noob TIG weldor.... and Aluminum is kind of hard... and 1" round is kind of harder......I bought it anyway..... I like a challenge......Here is what I bought...... NOTE: more posts with pics coming......... Attached ImagesPrecision TIG 185 and MP 210Bobcat 225NTCutmaster 42O/A tanks.... 2 Argon tanks...... 2 C25 TanksFacebook...... F2 Metal WorksETSY....... https://www.etsy.com/shop/F2MetalWorksF2MetalWorks.com....... http://www.f2metalworks.com/
Reply:That's tube.  Round stock would generally refer to solid, not hollow, material.Looking forward to seeing it.  Perhaps a tube notcher is in order.
Reply:The first challenge I found was cutting 45 degree miters that matched on both sides...... With square stuff... that easy.... with round stuff... it's a WHOLE lot harder.......I spent a few hours last Thursday trying to get that right.....I cut all the sides.... I used bubble levels, squares. and everything else I had to make the cuts....Then I ran out of daylight..... and so I mocked it up.... hoping I did a decent job....(1 degree off on a miter is a big deal..... you will see in a later pic)NOTE: A compact bender from Harbor Freight does not bend round stock.... NOW I KNOW...... Attached ImagesPrecision TIG 185 and MP 210Bobcat 225NTCutmaster 42O/A tanks.... 2 Argon tanks...... 2 C25 TanksFacebook...... F2 Metal WorksETSY....... https://www.etsy.com/shop/F2MetalWorksF2MetalWorks.com....... http://www.f2metalworks.com/
Reply:Today I was able to spend some time in the garage to start working on this aluminum cart...... I haven't had to grind my Tungsten as many times as I did today in..... about 6 months....I digress.....1 Inch round aluminum is hard because.... well... it's round.... and it's aluminum... Nuff Said....I was able to get a line of sight for only about 1/4" at a time...... coupled with the fact that my air cooled #9 TIG torch is only rated up to 125 amps...... I was having a hard time......I contaminate a lot..... I don't know how to finish at all without a crater.....Pics.... Attached ImagesPrecision TIG 185 and MP 210Bobcat 225NTCutmaster 42O/A tanks.... 2 Argon tanks...... 2 C25 TanksFacebook...... F2 Metal WorksETSY....... https://www.etsy.com/shop/F2MetalWorksF2MetalWorks.com....... http://www.f2metalworks.com/
Reply:Your weld looks cold. Settings, tungsten size, material thickness...?.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I had to figure out how to do all sides..... Pics..... Attached ImagesPrecision TIG 185 and MP 210Bobcat 225NTCutmaster 42O/A tanks.... 2 Argon tanks...... 2 C25 TanksFacebook...... F2 Metal WorksETSY....... https://www.etsy.com/shop/F2MetalWorksF2MetalWorks.com....... http://www.f2metalworks.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWYour weld looks cold. Settings, tungsten size, material thickness...?
Reply:I forgot to post the pic of the HUGE gap....This was a result of being a degree of so off.... TWICE..... on my Harbor Freight saw......This weld was worse than Fido's but.... so I didn't take a photo of that....here's the gap...... as a result of my first ever round stock experience.... Attached ImagesPrecision TIG 185 and MP 210Bobcat 225NTCutmaster 42O/A tanks.... 2 Argon tanks...... 2 C25 TanksFacebook...... F2 Metal WorksETSY....... https://www.etsy.com/shop/F2MetalWorksF2MetalWorks.com....... http://www.f2metalworks.com/
Reply:Sounds a lot like me.You should be, and will be, lambasted for trying to tig alum round tube before learning all the basics.  But who am I to say, I do the same thing. I've been at it for about the same time frame and I am learning the hard way (trial and error by myself.)Alum is tough, then after running a few consistent beads on flat plate I'll get all gung-ho and try to weld something like the side of 1/16 round tube to a flat 1/8 plate. Burn through at the start, get cold and melt everything at the end. Cuss, stomp, wipe away tears and then lay some beads on flat again. lol.Super fun then frustrating as ever, then super fun then.....Ah well, for me anyhow that's why it's just a hobby.Nice to see your progression and thick skin posting up your stuff. Good luck.How do you know the blacksmith's dog? When you hollar at him he makes a bolt for the door!
Reply:Since I'm not done with the cart... this next part is hard to visualize....I have uprights on both sides of the Plasma cutter.... Here is a pic of what I'm working on with the uprights.....And the ones after are pics of the uprights as I welded them.... Attached ImagesPrecision TIG 185 and MP 210Bobcat 225NTCutmaster 42O/A tanks.... 2 Argon tanks...... 2 C25 TanksFacebook...... F2 Metal WorksETSY....... https://www.etsy.com/shop/F2MetalWorksF2MetalWorks.com....... http://www.f2metalworks.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by that'll_buff_outSounds a lot like me.You should be, and will be, lambasted for trying to tig alum round tube before learning all the basics.  But who am I to say, I do the same thing. I've been at it for about the same time frame and I am learning the hard way (trial and error by myself.)Alum is tough, then after running a few consistent beads on flat plate I'll get all gung-ho and try to weld something like the side of 1/16 round tube to a flat 1/8 plate. Burn through at the start, get cold and melt everything at the end. Cuss, stomp, wipe away tears and then lay some beads on flat again. lol.Super fun then frustrating as ever, then super fun then.....Ah well, for me anyhow that's why it's just a hobby.Nice to see your progression and thick skin posting up your stuff. Good luck.
Reply:had similar results (little pimples in the bead puddles) using similar welder.  had much better results using 5356 filler / 2 percent ceriated electrodes."Steel is weak. What is steel compared to the hand that wields it?"- James Earl Jonesmiller 225 w/ 3035spoolmate, Lincoln sq wv 275 w/radiator, hypertherm 600 plasma cutter, other stuff
Reply:Here are my SUPER fails....I needed to put some flat plate on the bottom so I could bolt casters to them......I cursed at how bad this went.........After this I cleaned up the garage and called it a day....I was super pissed at these welds and quit for today..... thankfully these are not going to be seen...... Attached ImagesPrecision TIG 185 and MP 210Bobcat 225NTCutmaster 42O/A tanks.... 2 Argon tanks...... 2 C25 TanksFacebook...... F2 Metal WorksETSY....... https://www.etsy.com/shop/F2MetalWorksF2MetalWorks.com....... http://www.f2metalworks.com/
Reply:That's it for today.... My camera battery died and so I have no more progress pics....I do have video showing my cursing..... but I doubt I will upload that.....Now.... Mild Steel seems EASY!Precision TIG 185 and MP 210Bobcat 225NTCutmaster 42O/A tanks.... 2 Argon tanks...... 2 C25 TanksFacebook...... F2 Metal WorksETSY....... https://www.etsy.com/shop/F2MetalWorksF2MetalWorks.com....... http://www.f2metalworks.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by FexalI feel compelled to do what is beyond my limits.........I am happy to post my fails.....
Reply:Blow holes. As the seams are closing up, air is expanding and blowing out fouling your welds. You need to drill vent holes.Beyond that, you are doing well. I had about the same amount of hours in the 70's when I was put to work welding these. See all the holes and slider sections.Last edited by shovelon; 05-19-2012 at 10:47 PM.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:My advice is clean clean clean clean clean.  Sch 40 is tough, you could have benefited from a little bevel.  I'd probably have run more  than 125A for that.  Use a wire brush and then acetone.  You need that stuff clean.  What filler you using on 6000 alloy?Miller Diversion 180Hobart Handler 140 (Soon to be replaced with Miller 211?)Miller Spectrum 625 Extreme
Reply:Originally Posted by Jon KMy advice is clean clean clean clean clean.  Sch 40 is tough, you could have benefited from a little bevel.  I'd probably have run more  than 125A for that.  Use a wire brush and then acetone.  You need that stuff clean.  What filler you using on 6000 alloy?
Reply:I use 5356 for stuff I am not sure of, but for 6000 I read you want 4xxx filler.Miller Diversion 180Hobart Handler 140 (Soon to be replaced with Miller 211?)Miller Spectrum 625 Extreme
Reply:I have been welding aluminum full time for about 8 years now, and it can still be frustrating at times. In the last couple of months I have been slowing down a touch, I  can weld quite fast but my welds were inconsistent. I was offered a job welding commercial airplane parts a couple months ago and the owner told me "I don't care how long it takes, but I want every weld to be perfect." From then on every weld on every job I have tried to make every weld look the same even thou they are not for airplanes the speed will come with time, and doing every weld perfect.Just keep at it, and it will get better.
Reply:fexal, it looks to me like you bought plain ole 1" pipe schedule means the pipe wall was 'standard' instead of heavy or lighter wall than standard.  Sounds confusing but is fact.The cuts being slightly rolled or a little off in angle might have been 'averaged' by tacking the entire frame at one time. This may have allowed you to leave a fraction of the overall error at each end, so you have a few wider welds but not all in one place?when you miter pipe, it will turn out to be easier to reduce the puddle size by about 50% by beveling the edges more. What would happen is the ends of your pipe would then be thinner and take less amperage to get to fusion.so with a 60-75% wall miter or shoulder removed around the ends, the weld could be much smaller requiring less heat and filler.  The outer edge of the tip of the miters may have to be left more full since the two edges of the pipe could get very thin if you didn't pay close attention to your bevel.6061 can be welded with 4043 but 5356 would be a better choice for the work you're showing in my experience.All the welds you show that were frustrating seem like blow outs to me.  If you want to weld on the finished frame, drill a single hole not large say 3/16" in the pipe frame. Weld your two mount plates allowing the heated air to go out the hole, not out your puddle!  Then if you want to fill that hole get a cold water, wetted rag and lay that on the frame and it will chill the frame, causing a vacuum (relative to the outside air).While the cold wet rag is on the pipe; light up and fill the hole, as the vacuum will suck the weld in and you're sealed. Obviously, it goes without saying not to get the water near the weld!The main reason lots of more experienced welders suggest you practice flat or on steel or something it that vein is;  its hard to learn four or five facets of the trade at one time.   Many of the questions asked by newer TIG welders, might be learned for themselves with more time practicing.  When someone shows a fast pedal-out crater, as you show with the end of weld dimples, it implies that you may not have taken time with some basics.   I'm not finding fault, I'm just pointing out that this can be frustrating too those who have more or less taught themselves.   My thoughts on the weld dimple.If you'll stop the weld travel but hold the torch still and then begin to slowly (not a good term) but steadily retract the pedal/roll back the control wheel/ turn down the welding amperage the puddle will cool and you can see if you need a 'dab on top' before you're finished?What you're showing is weld arc crater from cooling too fast. The molten puddle is highly expanded, the metal 'has its elbows out'. When you stop you'll need to acquire the habit of lowering the heat more slowly, and evenly to avoid the metal in the center of the puddle (where the arc core is hottest) from contracting fast and shrinking downward into the rest of the 'frozen' metal.When you lower your amperage too fast you will see a hollow, or even a crater with a crack in it. (hence the term 'crater crack')  If you do see a hollow at the last puddle then dip a bit more filler and if this beads up too high, add just enough pedal/control/amperage to flatten and fuse that last filler/top drop since its just to compensate for the contraction of the last puddle.IF you add to the top of the last puddle and put a little heat on it to fuse it then continue to slowly 'back out' of the weld. That term is used to describe the arc core coming to the top of the weld and then becoming less and less in power till the puddle freezes. Then continue to lower the amperage and keep the gas over flowing both the tungsten and puddle for a three  or four count before lifting off the work.  The huddling chamber that is provided by the gas pooling on the workpiece holds more gas to the hot tungsten for a few key seconds while it cools to a more stable heat.Pipe is measured ID but the smaller 12-14 sizes are 'named' for their ID number and Tube is measured OD.  Round stock does not have any center hole but to fully confuse things when you buy material half way between these two products; its called Mechanical Tube!I think practice like you're doing will improve your skills and I hope that the explanation of the crater helps you to practice a more controlled weld ending technique?Cheers,Kevin MorinKenai, AK
Reply:Thanks Kevin. That explanation is very helpful. I'm looking forward to working on the pedal control.ThanksPrecision TIG 185 and MP 210Bobcat 225NTCutmaster 42O/A tanks.... 2 Argon tanks...... 2 C25 TanksFacebook...... F2 Metal WorksETSY....... https://www.etsy.com/shop/F2MetalWorksF2MetalWorks.com....... http://www.f2metalworks.com/
Reply:The crater comes from. Backing down the amperage to quickly, when your going to stop welding slowly rock out of the amperage until the puddle solidifies, then back out the rest. I find with the transformer machine like yours that the freq balance being set how it is tends the liquify the tungsten a bit much and if you have contamination on the tungsten above the ball it will spit into the puddle and cause contaminations like the pics you labeled as super fail. Try a new piece of Tungsten. It's easier for me to show someone then to explain, so I hope your understand what I was trying to sAyLast edited by astaindsoul5446; 05-20-2012 at 10:32 AM.Miller bobcat 225g  - spoolmatic 1Mm250 - 30a spoolMiller spectrum 375Thermal arc 95 Everlast Ex 250As the boiler turns, these are the days of our lives
Reply:That fan better NOT be running while you are attempting to weld anything..That is a huge ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterThat fan better NOT be running while you are attempting to weld anything..That is a huge ...zap!Good thread with no drama...Makes me wanna post my super fails so here we go......nah maybe later Good job Fex and keep at it. It's inspiring for us newbies!How do you know the blacksmith's dog? When you hollar at him he makes a bolt for the door!
Reply:Flex, one issue I see a lot of guys do is use a short square to set 90/45 deg angles on saws. I use as large a square as I can when I have to set the saw for an angle. I was moving things today and came across this. It's the miter base I picked up for my table saw. If you look close at the pict, You can set angles to within 1/2 deg easily, and probably even closer than that if you were careful. The trick is that the protractor is fairly large. I'd bet the side with the angles is 16-18". Too big to be useful in  most saws, but a lot more accurate than the tiny machinist squares I've seen guys try to set many saws with.One thing I've found cutting round tube is that it helps to do a few reference marks before you start. I use a length of angle  as a straight edge to lay out a reference line on the tube. That line then always is at the top of the fence and the tube is always in the same plane. Others might have other tricks to accomplish the same thing. I generally don't do all that much with round tube and miters. I've seen it done with levels also, but my  unlevel floor isn't really set up for that...No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:love aluminum fabrication. thanks for those photos and good luck!
Reply:Fexal rather than use the fan to blow smoke away, get a duct and use it to draw smoke awayMiller Diversion 180Hobart Handler 140 (Soon to be replaced with Miller 211?)Miller Spectrum 625 Extreme
Reply:do you have a really short post flow time set?  I made that mistake thinking the post flow was for cooling the puddle.. once I learned it is to allow the tungsten to cool before air hits it I found my beads to be a lot cleaner.  Your flat plate beads on the kart bottom you are dissatisfied with look like my dirty tungsten beads.  Looking good though, I will follow in your footsteps and try some tubing and then go back to plate and see if it seems easier!miller syncrowave 250hobart handler 140home made 400 amp engine driven in progress...
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterThat fan better NOT be running while you are attempting to weld anything..That is a huge ...zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by jdchmieldo you have a really short post flow time set?
Reply:Saturday I was practicing some aluminum on flat with my 3/32 Red and for the first 3 inches I was welding like a champ..... good ripple spacing..... feeling confident that I had the puddle under control...... was in great position to keep it going for another 6 or  8 inches when all of a sudden......I hiccuped or jerked just slightly and ZAP...... I touched the Tungsten to my puddle and glow immediately turned green......DANG!More practice...... that's what I need........ and now that I have a new bottle of Argon..... I plan to do just that......Precision TIG 185 and MP 210Bobcat 225NTCutmaster 42O/A tanks.... 2 Argon tanks...... 2 C25 TanksFacebook...... F2 Metal WorksETSY....... https://www.etsy.com/shop/F2MetalWorksF2MetalWorks.com....... http://www.f2metalworks.com/
Reply:Practice practice practice...I'm sure there's plenty of people around here familiar with that sharp  BZZZZZZZZZZT of tungsten touching aluminum.You didn't build that.'85 Miller AEAD-200LE
Reply:Btw Fexal, I've run my machine flat out with the 9 series torch on aluminum. You can go above 125 within reason. PapaLincoln Idealarc 250 (circa 1962)Lincoln Weldpak 155 w/Mig KitLincoln Squarewave TIG 175
Reply:Hey Papa......I've gone over 125....... But my hand gets hot pretty quick.......Precision TIG 185 and MP 210Bobcat 225NTCutmaster 42O/A tanks.... 2 Argon tanks...... 2 C25 TanksFacebook...... F2 Metal WorksETSY....... https://www.etsy.com/shop/F2MetalWorksF2MetalWorks.com....... http://www.f2metalworks.com/
Reply:I can remember my obsession with aluminum when I started years ago. I remember everyone gettting googly-eyed about the "stack of dimes" look, and all the talk of how it was harder, yadda, yadda. In my mind, when I hear something like that, I think "Challenge ACCEPTED!". As soon as I had the stuff to do aluminum, it was all I did. I would sit there for HOURS and just weld random bits and pieces together, run beads on plate, anything. As long as you're not putting anyone at risk of danger (including yourself) I say practice on whatever the hell you want. However, do understand that some materials and joint configurations are harder than others, so don't get too discouraged. You picked a particularly sneaky one, too, which is 1" round. You have to be watching your torch angle constantly, because you only get a few dips before it's already changed pretty drastically if you're not staying with it. In the instance where something goes wrong (tungsten to puddle, filler to tungsten, etc), stop immediately. Similarly, if you notice contamination or anything else out of the ordinary, stop. Straighten it out, brush off all the contamination you can, then start again. Welding along in the midst of contamination is an exercise in frustration. Unfortunately, without balance control, your tungsten is going to get balled like crazy, although, doesn't the Square wave pro 175 have the "auto balance control" thing? When I was welding with a non-square wave welder with no balance control, I got into the practice of grinding the tungsten to a fine point. Then I'd stick it in the welder and set the machine to electrode positive. Then strike and arc on clean metal and intentionally ball the tungsten back the right amount for the amps I was about to use. Then put it on AC and go to town. I abandoned that practice long ago, but I still use thoriated tungsten, haha. On a side note, I saw your welder on the local craiglist while doing my daily prowl for a syncrowave.