Home built 3-pt pallet lift?

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I've run across 48" x 4" wide pallet forks that are stamped 4k lbs capacity and look to be in original condition, with a 2" round eye at the top as the attachment point.  Also 2" solid round stock that could use a good grinding.  I'd like to build some 3-pt pallet forks.  It looks like most forks sold commercially now slide on flat stock.  Cheaper/simpler?  A 19" section of 2" round stock for each fork should allow for adjustment from 18" to 48" outside width.Thanks
Reply:Here is a build from a member here. Same general idea of what you want, I think...Check to see it if is, and you could steal his ideas.
Reply:Pics and drawings of what you're thinking?
Reply:Here is a set I built for a JD 2205. I made the forks out of 4" C channel with a set of gussets and flat bar laid on the edge as a strongback underneath. The forklift forks you have and round bar should work dandy. If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:That looks nice larp.Can I get a closer up pic of the region I circled with special green?  I can't tell exactly what you're doing in the pic. Is it a set screw provision to keep the forks from drifting, or a means of separating the upper hook if you need to take the forks off?And is that a SECOND outfit you got going on (special green arrow)?  Doggone idea must have gotten popular right away around your camp.  What kind of tractor you got that is green and yellow? I thought we had a "thumbs up" smilie in the bag, well this one will do.  Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by larpheadHere is a set I built for a JD 2205. I made the forks out of 4" C channel with a set of gussets and flat bar laid on the edge as a strongback underneath. The forklift forks you have and round bar should work dandy.
Reply:Thanks Doc Walker, I dont have a tractor. Those were for a buddy of mine. I DID end up building 2 sets (One for my buddy and one for my boss at work) but the other ones in that pic are for the front. They were painted yellow because that is what I had. Thats the owner of one of the tractors here.Unfortunately I dont have a close pic of that area. But you are exactly right, It is a 3/4" bolt used as a set screw to hold them in place. The rear forks are boxed in around the square tube to keep them from coming off. The fronts I made removable so if they ever needed repaired.  See the difference? Notice also I left the bottom of the 3 point forks unattached to the frame so they can be placed as close as possible. I built both sets over a year ago and as far as I know they are still holding up great. And neither of these two guys are known to be exactly gentle on equipment. If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:Yeah, I see the difference.Well, I was thinking you might be one of them Deere people, my bad.A friend of mine just recently built a fork attachment for his Deere FEL.He obtained a set of Class II forks from a guy in his church and came to me asking about how he could fabricate something to make them work on his front boom with the bucket off.  His bucket has the Kwik Tatch set up so dropping the bucket and hooking forks ain't a big job.I asked around to some forklift dealers and came up with a forks side shifter main frame for real cheap (scrap steel price) and he welded some steel plates/angles together to adapt it to the FEL boom.  He is pleased with how that turned out.
Reply:Originally Posted by larpheadThanks Doc Walker, I dont have a tractor. Those were for a buddy of mine. I DID end up building 2 sets (One for my buddy and one for my boss at work) but the other ones in that pic are for the front. They were painted yellow because that is what I had. Thats the owner of one of the tractors here.Unfortunately I dont have a close pic of that area. But you are exactly right, It is a 3/4" bolt used as a set screw to hold them in place. The rear forks are boxed in around the square tube to keep them from coming off. The fronts I made removable so if they ever needed repaired.  See the difference? Notice also I left the bottom of the 3 point forks unattached to the frame so they can be placed as close as possible. I built both sets over a year ago and as far as I know they are still holding up great. And neither of these two guys are known to be exactly gentle on equipment.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerweldYeah, I see the difference.Well, I was thinking you might be one of them Deere people, my bad.A friend of mine just recently built a fork attachment for his Deere FEL.He obtained a set of Class II forks from a guy in his church and came to me asking about how he could fabricate something to make them work on his front boom with the bucket off.  His bucket has the Kwik Tatch set up so dropping the bucket and hooking forks ain't a big job.I asked around to some forklift dealers and came up with a forks side shifter main frame for real cheap (scrap steel price) and he welded some steel plates/angles together to adapt it to the FEL boom.  He is pleased with how that turned out.
Reply:Nice work larpI keep thinking about making something like those just have not had the need so farBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:Here is a set I built for my little tractor about 12-years ago. Later I added pad eyes to it so I could use it on the 3-point. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400