Brush bucket

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This came to me from a friend who uses it to move more than "brush". He got the bucket with a tractor he bought several years ago and has slowly exploited its weaknesses. He asked if I could "fix it up" and this is what I came up. 3 inch channel paired and fully welded all the way around then welded to 3/8 inch plate for the bottom. I still have a little more welding to do which I'll finish up tomorrow. Lots of pictures for fun  Attached Images
Reply:More of the story line. Attached Images
Reply:The (hopefully) happy ending Attached Images
Reply:Why didn't you make a set that was removable?
Reply:Nice work!Was it necessary to replace the entire bottom plate?- MondoMember, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.
Reply:Necessary: No, Easier: ProbablyI appreciate the question because I struggled with which way to go for way more time than I should have. In the end I decided it would be too much effort to gouge out and grind down all the old welds. Although there was alot more welding involved with replacing the entire bottom.... it was no problem because I like welding more than I like grinding.
Reply:This is a spare bucket. he has another bucket slightly larger than this one, so this one is dedicated for "wood work". This is a guy who exclusively burns wood for heat so he tosses trees and logs around alot. That's what tore it up.If anyone's interested, post #2, pic 4 shows the clamping technique I used to hold the new bottom in place. When I cut the old bottom out, I left about a 1/2 inch lip all the way around. There are two vise-grip clamps at the front edge of the bucket to hold the front down. I put 2 C-clamps at the upper back of the bucket and then cut some scrap slightly longer than would fit between the C-clamp and the bottom of the bucket (one is marked: Mark Ferazzotto). I tapped these in with a hammer until the back of the new bottom was tight against the lip, See pic 5.
Reply:I'm interested to know how the c-channel will hold up. I know it's a bit late now... did you think about spear pockets?  Some pockets (square tube maybe) would allow the spears to be replaced when they get bent up. I know my 4 spear bale forks get used for brush quite a bit... although I strong discourage it.
Reply:Tooth bar, 2 bolts and fairly cheap. I'm all for building, no doubt. But only if you can do it cheaper. Good job tho I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Nice job, but I agree w/ Forhire. Some 2" sq tube w/ walls as thick as can be found and bolt them to the bucket bottom. Taper the ends and weld a cap over it.                                             MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:The success/Longevity of those tines will be directly proportionate to the experience and ability of the operator. I did my grapple like this and it has been fine for brush and logs, but no good for pulling stumps and large rocks2x2x1/4 SQ tube ends capped"Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:Like Clint said" A man's gotta know his limitations", and a good operator's gotta know the limitations of his machine.                                            MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Nice job Mark, That should last a very long time if used properly.. I have seen more loader and bucket damage do to not being used properly then by metal wearing out or welding failures. excluding the wear pads on the bottom and cutting edges. Sometimes green and red,blue ect.. paint is mistaken for construction yellow