Picked up an anvil to work on.

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I picked up this anvil tonight. Its about 70 lbs. Dimensions L 17", W 3" (across top), H 8". The top is fairly flat but the edges are pretty bad. When you strike the top with a hammer you get a ring and the hammer bounces. I was told that if it were cast then you would just get a thud and no bounce. Steel you get a ring sound and a bounce. Plan on grinding the edges back and welding the sides back up and grinding them out. I dont have much in it so if I mess it up I aint out much.Making as much progress as a one legged duck in the middle of a pond, just going in circles.
Reply:Originally Posted by bhardy501 I was told that if it were cast then you would just get a thud and no bounce. Steel you get a ring sound and a bounce
Reply:Very, very interestingk!  City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:I think you are on the right track with your anvil.  Some had steel tops and iron bodies.  Do a google search on anvil, there is a lot of info out there.Be sure to post back with some pics when you get it done."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWNot really true. I have an old Fisher anvil that is definitely cast and it will ring and bounce. Granted not as well as a forged steel anvil will however. If an anvil doesn't ring or bounce, that's usually a sign it's cracked or the top face is loose. They check train wheels for cracks the same way. they strike them with a sledge and if it rings it's good. If they get a thud or odd sound, that's usually a sign there's a problem.
Reply:I'm looking to buy an anvil soon - have had a look around and was surprised by how expensive they are. Can anyone advise how much I should be paying for a good one and importantly how can I recognise a quality one? Iv seen Clarke sell them but i've been a bit put off buying machine mart stuff!www.blackfoxmetalcraft.co.uk
Reply:When I took my forging class this summer I asked the instructor the same question. He suggested between $2-3 per pound was a good average for an anvil in decent shape. That said, I backed out at an auction when a 300lb Fisher anvil topped $900. From talking to several guys since, an anvil that large easily would bring over $1200-1500 because of it's size and the fact they are moderately rare that large... New prices are stupid expensive for good ones topping $6-10 per pound easily.You need to keep your eyes open and don't be afraid to ask if you see one in someones yard as "yard art". Many people love to put old anvils in the yard, but offer then $150-250 for one and you may be surprised if they say "sold". I've got a "loaner" anvil coming from the neighbor of where I have my shop. I tried to talk him into selling the anvil he almost never uses, but instead he agreed I can keep it in my shop on "loan", and use it when ever I want, in exchange for the use of my big steel table or the anvil when he needs it..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:These guys have a lot of information on anvils. Prices, repairs, etc.http://www.iforgeiron.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by tallgrassThese guys have a lot of information on anvils. Prices, repairs, etc.http://www.iforgeiron.com/
Reply:are you going to take it to amachine shop to have the top leveled off?bobs77vet/37ford4drEastwood digital TIG200HH190Lincoln Invertec 155sLincoln weldpak 100sears/craftsman (lincoln) 50a 240v buzz boxO/A rig Harris gaugesnexion cut 50 dxchicago electric (HF) 240v spot welder
Reply:I have access to a mill. Probably do it myself.Making as much progress as a one legged duck in the middle of a pond, just going in circles.
Reply:Originally Posted by 37ford4drare you going to take it to amachine shop to have the top leveled off?
Reply:I think I have just about narrowed down my fix to grinding down the sides to clean them up. Build up back to just under level with 7018s do a cap with a hardsurfacing rod. I think I may be able to get a few from a friend and it not cost me anything, just have to check and see if he has any. If not I can buy enough to do this for about $20. Grind smooth and then use a flap disc to finish clean up. The center is almost dead flat except one little area. As long as I dont take the center down anymore I think I will be fine. I will preheat the anvil prior to starting the weld out. I will post pics of my progress. Probably be next week before I get a chance to really mess around with it.Making as much progress as a one legged duck in the middle of a pond, just going in circles.
Reply:hard to tell but i think thats a vulcan, which is the same as i have.  youre going to need to do a substantial amount of preheating before you attempt to reface it.  you may be better off using a 309 rod. its a stainless, but its made for dissimilar metals, think its called a buttering rod for that reason.  refacing anvils is tricky business from what i understand, good luck and let us know how it turns out
Reply:I've resurfaced several anvils through the year with good results. I was lucky to find an old weldor/black smith that knew how and would tell me. You do not want to use a 7018. Use a rod with 1% moly in them. It will work toughen and will not chip with hammer blows. I never machined any tops though. I ground them down close and sanded them with a belt sander with a straight platen.
Reply:Nice find, I am still working the RR track secton I picked up for 20.00, want to grind it down to a point and cut out the bottom like others here have, if I recall bootsinjim did one.
Reply:Originally Posted by BobI've resurfaced several anvils through the year with good results. I was lucky to find an old weldor/black smith that knew how and would tell me. You do not want to use a 7018. Use a rod with 1% moly in them. It will work toughen and will not chip with hammer blows. I never machined any tops though. I ground them down close and sanded them with a belt sander with a straight platen.
Reply:Hey, Bill.Good find!Post pictures of your progress. Looks like a good project that will pay off.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Worked on the anvil today. Just did a little grinding. I dont want to weld it until I have everything in place and only have to do it one time. Dont want to cycle it through hot and cool several times. Making as much progress as a one legged duck in the middle of a pond, just going in circles.
Reply:Originally Posted by eastexanBob, since you're knowledgable about anvils, I have a couple questions. I have an old 200# steel anvil that needs the tip of the horn built out. Someone had torch cut it off, probably thinking it was a safety hazard. I'm guessing I need to build it out about 2 or 3 inches, since the cut is about an inch in diameter. How much of a point should they have? Does ¼" sound about right to you?Also, since the horn doesn't get the same amount of beating that the top face does, do you think it would be ok to use 7018 to build the horn out? If not, is the moly rods you are talking about, the same as hardfacing rods?Thanks
Reply:Tha anvil given to me wasn't that bad. I used Stoody 1105, it work hardens. So far its been holding up very well. PeterEquipment:2  old paws2  eyes (that don't look so good)1  bad back
Reply:Here is an anvil I made for a neighbor out of some real tall railroad rail. He is an old guy and makes feeders and waterers for rabbits and chickens. It gets beat on every day. It is about 13 years old now and still looks pretty good. I left the back half rounded and the front half I built up and squared of. I used the 11018 rod on it after warming it with a rose bud.