Stainless Steel Workbench Top Suggestions

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Hi guys, I need some suggestions on how to go about finishing up a workbench top for my garage.  I made this work bench out of 2x2 tube and angle around a cheap toolbox I took the casters off of and put leveling feet on.  My plan was to use a big piece of MDF and cover it with 20 gauge stainless that I scavenged off of an old restaurant shelves I bough off craigslist to make the benchtop to end up with something that looks like this.The issue I have is that the workbench top needs to be 82"x 22" with a 3/4" bend on the front.  The finger brake and hydraulic shear I have access to have a max of 48".  I thought of a couple solutions and wanted to get the forums input and thoughts.- Use the biggest piece I have (it's huge, bigger than bench top) and get it cut down to 82" x 22 3/4", and bent at the front.  So far I haven't found any sheet metal fabricators that have a shear or brake big enough.  I would probably have to drive a long while to find someone that can do this and pay through the nose.  I would also have to fill in a couple 1/4" screw holes in the stainless.- Cut and bend 2 pieces of 41" x 22 3/4" on the shear and brake I have access to and try to weld the seam.  I have access to a Lincoln Precision 225 TIG machine.  What I lack is the skill, I have been practicing but don't feel comfortable welding such big pieces yet.  I have a bunch of pieces to practice on but I am afraid I will not be happy with the end result.  I would like a top that looks completely seamless, that you can't tell has been welded from 2 pieces.Can you guys think of any other solutions to my issues?  What is easier to learn, filling 1/4" holes in 20 gauge stainless or welding a 22" seam that will be in the middle of the workbench?  With enough practice, can I make the welded seam look.....seamless?thanks in advance
Reply:I wouldn't cover any wood product with steel to use as a welding table. Though you are protecting the wood from direct contact from the welding arc, it will still heat up enough to burn.  You could be starting a fire that you can't see which is more dangerous than one you can see.After welding, I always hang out for at least 30 minutes to see if anything starts burning (possible embers flying across the garage/driveway).  With the wood under the steel top it might take longer than 30 minutes before you would know anything was wrong.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:By the way, nice table/tool box setup!GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:You might be able to use a steel circular saw and cut a shallow kerf and bend by hand. I've done this on heavier metal but not 20 gauge.
Reply:Check out a local heating and air shop that also does their own duct work. Not sure if 20 gauge in stainless would be beyond the capability of their brake since they usually just brake galvanize steel sheeting, but guessing it shouldn't factor in. Same goes for their shear which should handle 20 ga. stainless (ask them). Did the counter top on the long work bench at my shop in galvanized this way and looks good enough (least to me, what with the none matching couple of plywood drawer fronts and cabinet doors due to missing pieces on the cabinets I got from the remodeler friend of mine)...no welded seams as I just had them brake the front to tightly capture the MDF and hardwood veneer conference room doors (stout enough to drive a semi over!) the counter top was made from with the rear braked section ran long to just drape over the back side (not visible because the counter top is against the wall in back and left the ends go with a strap covering the bare ends and screwed to the MDF door on each end. Picture of the bench really doesn't show much, but it is the only one I have available at the moment.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:BTW, if you go the heating & air route and want finished corners, have them brake the necessary tabs on the corner section legs for an inside weld and you shouldn't need to get all that proficient with your TIG work once you notch the mdf (?) or whathaveyou out for whatever weld buildup there is and still stay clean looking on your top...out of sight and out of mind...mostly...helps if you smile smugly to yourself on the cost savings, cleanliness of the end product and forget that nagging feeling that you somehow cheated...just a tad.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelI wouldn't cover any wood product with steel to use as a welding table. Though you are protecting the wood from direct contact from the welding arc, it will still heat up enough to burn.  You could be starting a fire that you can't see which is more dangerous than one you can see.After welding, I always hang out for at least 30 minutes to see if anything starts burning (possible embers flying across the garage/driveway).  With the wood under the steel top it might take longer than 30 minutes before you would know anything was wrong.
Reply:If you can stand to have a lip on the front, just cut the stainless to size as a flat sheet and use some square-corner aluminum angle to cover the front edge/corner like this:http://www.7976491.com/New%20Bench%20final.jpgIt would keep stuff from rolling off and could be replaced easily it it gets banged up too much.With stuff that thin, I would steer away from trying to weld and dress it.  Either keep it flat or have someone with the right equipment bend it.
Reply:Originally Posted by jmvarHi, I actually have a small welding table that I use so this bench is strictly a work surface for other projects and for making a mess of my tools.  No welding will be done on this surface.The toolbox is actually a harbor freight US General 57" box I got on sale.  Thanks for the compliment, I welded it on my driveway so it's not completely square but then again, nothing in my garage is