ada handrail process

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I have had a couple big ADA handrail jobs that I have had to turn down because I had never done this type of rail and the jobs were much much to big for me.I finally got offered a ADA handrail job that was small enough that I was not worried about my ability to complete it. The job was just two lengths of rail at about 25 feet each down a ramp with a very small bend.Here is what I did:material:top rail = 1 1/4 schedule 40vertical posts = 1 1/2 schedule 40feet for posts = 1/4 plate with 3 holeshardware = 1/2 inch red head wedge anchorsprocess:Shop WorkCNC cut the feet for all the postscut vertical posts (just a square cut)tape end of top rail and vertical posts and paint them remaining un-taped areaweld up 1/2 of the D returnsField Worksnap chalk line down both sides of ramp where the feet will godrill holes in concrete and anchor feet in place. tighten all anchorsplace vertical posts in feet level, plumb and tack in placeNotch the top of all the vertical posts with tubing notcher to follow ramp slopefabricate and lay top rail in placeplace D returns in and tack them upfinish welding vertical postsfinish welding top rail and D returnsgrind and paintIs this process close to what you ADA handrail pros use? Are there things I could do different to be more efficient?Thanks for the advice,wRMiller TrailBlazer 301Miller 12rc feederMiller ShopmasterMiller 22a feederPlasmaCam CNC TableHypertherm 45 cutterDrills, saws, blast cabinets etc.
Reply:top rail = 1 1/4 schedule 40vertical posts = 1 1/2 schedule 40
Reply:yeah, that was one thing that I had decided I would change the next time around.You could not really see it in the installation I did, but the biggest thing is that it forced me to change the hole saw I was using in my tubing notcher between the two sizes instead of just being able to stick with the one hole saw........and of course, there is no reason to have a larger upright.Thanks for the input,wRMiller TrailBlazer 301Miller 12rc feederMiller ShopmasterMiller 22a feederPlasmaCam CNC TableHypertherm 45 cutterDrills, saws, blast cabinets etc.
Reply:Didn't you have anybody you could give or sell the jobs (jobs you turned down) to?The hole saw change over probably wasn't too bad, if you did everything in groups.  Is hole saw faster than a band saw.  I use a jig and Horizontal band saw for notching pipe rail.  It is already on the saw so why not.  You could use a digital level to find the pitch.  If you core drill then you could make height adjustments in the hole.  Have your product powder coated, while you do something else.  Fabricate off site and carry finished parts for installation.  Use mechanical fasteners for connecting rails rather than welding them together on site.  Opus suggested using sched 10 pipe for weight savings.  I thought that was a good idea and I had never thought about it.  I don't know if I could find sched 10 locally.
Reply:I use a JD tube/pipe notcher to notch the vertical pipes. I notched them once I already had them set and welded up. I could have done that with a portaband, but it would have been ugly.Nobody to sell those jobs I turned down to. Not too many of the small, mobile operators around here that I would have recommended, and I just don't know any of the larger operators.I need to look into one of those digital levels to find the pitch, then I can do more work in the shop. Damn good idea.I generally offer to prime and paint at a discount compared to powder coating in case they are trying to squeeze pennies. I do not like to lose on price, so I give a few options to save money. I just tell them that the quality is not there with my prime/paint as compared to powder coating.Another damn good idea about using lighter material for the top rail. I'll look into that.As far as core drilling, I do not have the equipment and the local equipment rentals either did not have that, or it was very expensive. I saw a used core drill at a steel supplier in Sacramento. I think I may try and get that for a song.Thanks again for the input. This type of work seems like it can be easy and profitable. I am going to try and get more it.wRMiller TrailBlazer 301Miller 12rc feederMiller ShopmasterMiller 22a feederPlasmaCam CNC TableHypertherm 45 cutterDrills, saws, blast cabinets etc.
Reply:I find my 24" digital Stablia level indispensable when working on stair rails and so on since I can set it to read in degrees if I want. I picked it up on an impulse buy when a local store had them on clearance and it's quickly become my go to level in the truck for small things. I'd buy a longer one in a heart beat if I ever needed to replace my 4' or 6' Stablia level for any reason.I also have a laser level and receiver that I use on jobs with longer runs, but all it will give me is change in vertical height. I have to do the math to work from there. It is a big help when working on uneven terrain like when installing fences. Most times given rise or fall from a given reference line plus run I can work out what ever I need to even off site..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:As for a digital level, you can use a level app on a smartphone as long as you calibrate it and use it in conjunction with a level or straight edge to get a longer average. Check a ramp in a few spots, it is plenty close enough for a handrail, as long as you have calibrated it beforehand. (Did I mention you have to calibrate it?) Please note that this is not my preferred method, but it does work...
Reply:as a state inspector i can tell you ... get a smart level if you are going to do ADA work.  Make sure it is calibrated and make sure the inspector sees you use it.the problem with ADA is there is go Grey area.  It is either right or wrong, and if it is wrong, it comes out and gets done right, that means everywhere.  Don't push the specs.  if your max is 8.3%, you had better put it in at 8.0% or less, because if something moves, you will be out and get to redo it.http://www.google.com/shopping/produ...&ved=0CJQBEMwDyou will easily save the purchase price the first time you don't have to rip something out.just a couple thoughts ...