Why is this happening when i weld aluminum???

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ok i have good clean metal and brand new filler rod. I used a few different pieces and rods and tungsten too.I have used Pure tungsten, 2% thoriated and 1.5% lanthanated. I can make a good weld puddle but when i dip the filler rod its gets black stuff in it??? But i have tryed different rod and clean the aluminum good too. here are some pics....what do you guys think it is? I dont think it the gas i get get a good puddle started. I have a lincoln idealarc 300-300 TIG.
Reply:What are you using for gas and what is the setting?...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Just to ask the obvious....1) are you on AC2) high frequency on?3) hard to tell thickness but looks like maybe 1/8 ......I would be running about 145 on the machine4) what is the arc balance set at....clean or penetrate or neutral?to me that looks like an aluminum weld done on DC "Anybody can talk $h!t behind a monitor, I let the quality of my work speak for itself"Lincoln Square Wave 255 and 355 Tig Lincoln 255 Power-Mig w/ spool gun Koike 5 x 10 CNC plasma Hyd-Mech DM-10 bandsaw Ineco QB-76 NC tube bender
Reply:Show us pics of the cup and tung. before and after welding. Can you do a puddle only pic. adding no filler?Just my  opinion, not from a book, just from the road.Howes Welding Inc.www.howesweldinginc.com
Reply:Everything else above, and the brush marks from cleaning are barely noticable. Gotta be cleaned better. Stainless brush that you only use on aluminum, but seems deeper than that. Don't rule out a bad bottle of gas either, it happens often enough to me and my LWS never even questions it, but still a hassle.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:First you need to check your gas.If that's OK, I suspect you're pulling your filler too far out of the covering gas envelope.  If you are, you're contaminating it, and then adding the contamination to the puddle on your next dip.Really don't understand why so many beginners feel that they have to jump right into aluminum and SS without at least getting the basics down on mild steel.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIFirst you need to check your gas.If that's OK, I suspect you're pulling your filler too far out of the covering gas envelope.  If you are, you're contaminating it, and then adding the contamination to the puddle on your next dip.Really don't understand why so many beginners feel that they have to jump right into aluminum and SS without at least getting the basics down on mild steel.
Reply:That looks very much like gas contamination, whether it be from the bottle itself, or from your setup somewhere allowing air to enter. Run some beads with no filler and see if the puddle still has that nasty porosity. If so, check all your connections for leaks, and check your hose for pinholes and leak spots. As a LAST variable, you may have to swap bottles with your supplier. I say that because the last thing you want to do is make accusations on them, only to find out it was your problem all along. Open mouth, insert foot. Haha. You can avoid this akward situation if you can get ahold of another bottle to try. If the bead with no filler looks clean, it's your technique. Practice practice!
Reply:Originally Posted by ZmechanicThat looks very much like gas contamination, whether it be from the bottle itself, or from your setup somewhere allowing air to enter. Run some beads with no filler and see if the puddle still has that nasty porosity. If so, check all your connections for leaks, and check your hose for pinholes and leak spots. As a LAST variable, you may have to swap bottles with your supplier. I say that because the last thing you want to do is make accusations on them, only to find out it was your problem all along. Open mouth, insert foot. Haha. You can avoid this akward situation if you can get ahold of another bottle to try. If the bead with no filler looks clean, it's your technique. Practice practice!
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIReally don't understand why so many beginners feel that they have to jump right into aluminum and SS without at least getting the basics down on mild steel.
Reply:Gamble,Your comment just confirms that you don't know what you're talking about.  It also shows that you, most likely, missed several steps in developing tig skills.But, you go ahead and keep thinking that.PS.  It's one thing to stick aluminum together, but quite another to WELD IT PROPERLY.Last edited by SundownIII; 05-11-2012 at 10:46 AM.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Your right i forgot you know everything old man..Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleYour right i forgot you know everything old man..
Reply:Originally Posted by JohnRWell, considering all his posts, the amount of time he takes to share his wealth of in-depth technical knowledge, and his tone in most posts.. I think you did.Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Reply:Ok i went and got new gas and it works much better!Also I have been welding for years on the farm...Im very good with stick welding and certified. I passed the bend test on a 6G 2" pipe weld at school. I have been going to school for welding for one year also. At my job i TIG weld SS all the time and MIG alot. This is a new welder for me so i wasnt sure of settings and what not. Thanks for the Help guys.This is a peice of mild steel for you SundownIII...how does it look?
Reply:wow. Very nice.your post was a very polite "take that" to people who assumed you were a noob to welding, lol.Hobart EZ-Tig newbie.
Reply:Originally Posted by chimmikewow. Very nice.your post was a very polite "take that" to people who assumed you were a noob to welding, lol.
Reply:Originally Posted by jordan_5600lol thanks
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIGamble,Your comment just confirms that you don't know what you're talking about.  It also shows that you, most likely, missed several steps in developing tig skills.But, you go ahead and keep thinking that.PS.  It's one thing to stick aluminum together, but quite another to WELD IT PROPERLY.
Reply:^^^ interesting to see where this goes. 40 years of welding doesn't mean you are the best welder.....i have a huge amount of respect for someone with that much experience but sometimes even the most experienced can be wrong. Miller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIII suspect you're pulling your filler too far out of the covering gas envelope.  If you are, you're contaminating it, and then adding the contamination to the puddle on your next dip.
Reply:does every post on weldingweb turn into a pissing contest about who's the best?ESAB MigMaster 275Miller Econotwin HFMiller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverThis is complete nonsense.I think you've confused it with stainless rod... or something.
Reply:This has strayed as usual.To the OP, What cfpm flow is the torch set at?? i typically used 25 cfph with aluminum (30cfph if its windy ETC).  Have you dipped your tungsten alot?  Try a new Clean piece of tungsten. also it seems your running a bit hot.Miller bobcat 225g  - spoolmatic 1Mm250 - 30a spoolMiller spectrum 375Thermal arc 95 Everlast Ex 250As the boiler turns, these are the days of our lives
Reply:Originally Posted by astaindsoul5446This has strayed as usual.To the OP, What cfpm flow is the torch set at?? i typically used 25 cfph with aluminum (30cfph if its windy ETC).  Have you dipped your tungsten alot?  Try a new Clean piece of tungsten. also it seems your running a bit hot.Originally Posted by tig_21^^^ interesting to see where this goes. 40 years of welding doesn't mean you are the best welder.....i have a huge amount of respect for someone with that much experience but sometimes even the most experienced can be wrong.
Reply:Ya I jumped in before reading entirelyMiller bobcat 225g  - spoolmatic 1Mm250 - 30a spoolMiller spectrum 375Thermal arc 95 Everlast Ex 250As the boiler turns, these are the days of our lives
Reply:Originally Posted by travisc454It never goes anywhere. I call him out and tell him to post a picture. and then he disappears. 40 years? there is no proof he has welded a day in his life. Do you not find it strange that after almost 2700 posts there is not a single picture. The internet is full of weird people. It wouldn't surprise me if he got a kick out of coming on here and derailing threads. Im a member of many forums and most are an extremely helpful and polite place to share information. They help me learn and i like to think i help others when i can. But if you look back to all the drawn out derailed back and forth bickering threads on welding web you will see SundownIII is the one who starts the $hiT 90% of the time maybe more.
Reply:Originally Posted by hoghttp://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=116681  You might want to look here before you call him out again, he"s contrary as hell but obviously knows his trade.
Reply:travisc454,Don't know why I even bother responding to your attacks, but though I should respond to this one.Frankly, I find you to be the "posterboy" for what's wrong with the welding industry today.  I did go back and read your previous posts (as you have mine), and that further confirmed my suspicions.  You've now been welding aluminum for three years and "know it all".  You started in a shop where "your boss" knew his stuff (your words), but after a year on the job you knew more than he did about running the business.  Maybe if you'd stayed around a while longer, he could have passed off more of his knowledge.With that said, you're a "shining example" of why many "pros" in the business are reluctant to spend the time training up a new welder.  Just about the time they get to the point where they're "covering their salary/benefits" they think they know more than the boss, go out and buy a welder and hang a shingle out and become the competition.  Frankly, there's a lot more to running a fab shop than just being able to "run a bead".  In reality, the welding is the easy part.  Only time will tell if you're going to be successful.With regards to your comment about "starting sh1t", I would reply that, if there wasn't so much bad information put out as fact, then that wouldn't be necessary in the first place.  I come on the forum to try to pass on information gleaned over many years of working around the industry.  I'm not here to be your "buddy" and try to blow smoke up your skirt.  If you don't like my posts, then I suggest you put me on ignore.  If you disagree with my posts, then say so.  I think if you go back and check, you'll find that I don't put out information that cannot be verified.  I don't comment on subjects where I have no background.You'll find, if you read my previous posts, that I don't ask "how do I do.....".  The reason for that is, over time, I've developed relationships with professionals in their fields whose input I know I can trust.  The answers I get don't come from guys who bought their welders last year or two years ago.Aside from the "school of hard knocks", I've had the good fortune to be able to work with pros in a multitude of welding/fabrication fields.  I did consulting with one of the larger fab shops (owner was my next door neighbor) on the east coast who specialized in SS work in the textile industry (Burlington, Dan River Mills, etc) as well as the paper industry.  He employed some of the best SS fabricators in the business.  I learned a fair amount from these guys, but the biggest thing I learned was there was "always more" than met the eye.  Being in the marine field for nearly 20 years, I was around some of the best aluminum fabricators in the country.  Having the opportunity to be around "different shops" gave me insight into what really works in this industry.  One of the biggest things I learned here was that good welding cannot make up for a poor design.I have never claimed to be "the best welder" to come down the pike.  Over the years, I've worked with guys who are far better in their respective fields than I am.  They've done it far longer and tend to focus on a specific area (ie. welding anodized aluminum or welding SS).  In my business, I need to be "proficient" (if not the best) in a multitude of metals since I work with mild steel, SS, aluminum and even bronze.  Each has it's own specific idiosyncrasies.While I understand that many posters here really like to see photos of people's "work", I am much more focused on satisfying the customer and getting the work out, than I am on taking photos.  Frankly, I have "nothing to prove" to anyone on this forum.  Additionally, there are posters who "post up" photos of other's work and claim it to be their own.  What does that prove.In my mind, the best place for photos is when a poster is having problems with a particular process and doesn't know how to correct it.  This is where a photo can replace a thousand words.  Since I almost never post a "how do I do it?/What am I doing wrong?" post, I don't take a lot of photos.We should all be happy that guys like Zap DO take the time to post up photos of their work.  He does some "unique/off the wall work".  While I don't always agree with him with regards to process used, you have to give him credit for "getting it done" with what many would consider a "primitive machine".  Guys like ZT who can do things with a mig that many would consider impossible.  DSW who provides a wealth of information but few photos.  Or KevinMoran who does some awesome aluminum work.  Even some of our "best tiggers" like KB Fabrications or Engloid who seldom post any more.  The list goes on and on with guys who provide valuable input to the forum in their own ways.Unfortunately, we've lost some of our "most experienced posters" because of posters exactly like you.  Guys who are "relatively new" to the industry but have learned just enough to be dangerous.  Guys who have limited experience but feel that "they know it all" about how things should be.  As an example, your comments about using an on/off button vs foot pedal or fingertip remote.  Pretty obvious you've never done much SS work.  If ALL you ever want to weld is aluminum, by all means, start with aluminum.  But, if you want to be an all around tig welder, there are certain steps you follow to get there.  That includes being proficient with the "tools of the trade" (remote controls).  Your repeated boasts about "aluminum doesn't need prep work" is pure BS.  While I agree, that much tube/pipe work with new material (especially anodized that's being bump welded) is often welded with little or no prep, most mill finish material will yield a better weld if prepped properly.In closing I'd suggest you attack what I do post (comments/recommendations) rather than what I don't do (post a lot of photos).  If your purpose here is to start a "pissing contest" I'm up for that also.  Frankly, it wouldn't be difficult to shoot holes in the majority of your recommendations.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:TRAVIS, not sticking up for SUNDOWN but welders for the most part give machinests a run for the money on who is more nuts. Throw in welding and being an off shore fisherman seals the deal. Everyone I work with is completeley insane (except me) and some of the most talented welders, blacksmiths and machinests iv'e met. A smart man can see through the sarcasim, and find the knowledge in the middle. Arguing doesn't solve anything, fighting does. Iv'e only been on this forum for a bunch of months and the same questions day after day do get annoying, that's why he's so abrassive. As far as you SUNDOWN, you can talk crap all you want I know your a sweetheart, just a smart one I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeTRAVIS, not sticking up for SUNDOWN but welders for the most part give machinests a run for the money on who is more nuts.
Reply:Had the same exact thing happen to me three weeks ago and it was a bad bottle of gas......changed it and everything got happy.......If you use your machine a lot and know what it does and all of a sudden it starts welding bad like that......Back up and think what you changed last......A bad bottle won't weld good then weld bad.....it welds bad from the time you hook it up......If your welding fine with a bottle and it starts welding bad......its NOT the gas and you need to decide if your work piece is dirty or you have a flow problem......Unless you machine is taking a crap there's not too many things it can be but the things mentioned.....Mine was contaminated gas...  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeTRAVIS, not sticking up for SUNDOWN but welders for the most part give machinests a run for the money on who is more nuts. Throw in welding and being an off shore fisherman seals the deal. Everyone I work with is completeley insane (except me) and some of the most talented welders, blacksmiths and machinests iv'e met. A smart man can see through the sarcasim, and find the knowledge in the middle. Arguing doesn't solve anything, fighting does. Iv'e only been on this forum for a bunch of months and the same questions day after day do get annoying, that's why he's so abrassive. As far as you SUNDOWN, you can talk crap all you want I know your a sweetheart, just a smart one
Reply:crab fisherman,LOLI was pulling crab pots (Chesapeake Blue Fin) when I was 6 years old.Starting at 9, I was running a Chesapeake Bay buyboat, hauling oysters (Sept-Feb) from Hampton, VA to Baltimore, Md.  Used to make the Friday night run in prep for the Sat AM seafood market in B'more.  Noreasters and ice were the biggest threats on the Chesapeake that time of year.Did east coast/gulf deliveries for Bertram Yachts (Miami, FL) for about 10+ years while I was still on active duty.Never did any crab fishing in the Pacific and dang glad I never had to work in those conditions.  Whatever you make, it's not enough.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by crab fishermanWhat's this about being an offshore fisherman, you think we are "nuts"?Oh yeah, that IS true...!...Sorry, this crazy azzed fisherman got off topic!-Ian
Reply:I noticed you said Bertram yachts. Funny story, they're moving to the old Sea Ray facility not too far from where I grew up. Their boats are beautiful........and I'll never be able to afford one. lol.Hobart EZ-Tig newbie.
Reply:chimmike,YepBertram built some great boats prior to going into bankruptcy in 1991.  They were never the same boats after the Italians got their greasy paws on the company.Dave Napier, who was the naval architect who designed many of their best hull (the 54" for instance) is a very close friend of mine.  Dave had some influence on my son's deciding to pursue a degree in naval architecture.I had already known several of the key players at Bertram from my boat racing days back in the mid 60's.  When I went to grad school at UM, my faculty advisor (Bill Swart) had some ties to the marine industry in S. Florida.  I did all the time motion work for Bertram when they did the plant expansion in 1974.  That's how I got hooked up with them.  First it was running a few boats for them at the Miami Boatshow and then it evolved into east coast/gulf delivery work.I was a dealer for Bertram yachts when they went bankrupt in 1991.  I've owned several of their boats over the years.  Bought my first one, a 28' Flybridge Cruiser, in 1979.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIItravisc454,Don't know why I even bother responding to your attacks, but though I should respond to this one.Frankly, I find you to be the "posterboy" for what's wrong with the welding industry today.  I did go back and read your previous posts (as you have mine), and that further confirmed my suspicions.  You've now been welding aluminum for three years and "know it all".  You started in a shop where "your boss" knew his stuff (your words), but after a year on the job you knew more than he did about running the business.  Maybe if you'd stayed around a while longer, he could have passed off more of his knowledge.choppedIn closing I'd suggest you attack what I do post (comments/recommendations) rather than what I don't do (post a lot of photos).  If your purpose here is to start a "pissing contest" I'm up for that also.  Frankly, it wouldn't be difficult to shoot holes in the majority of your recommendations.
Reply:Cool website TRAVIS, good luck with the business Some nice work there  .I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterI'M both.That must make me ...zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIII
Reply:When I was a lad[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe1a1wHxTyo[/ame]
Reply:Jon K,Didn't like my comment, huh?Maybe you should contact Miller and tell them that they've got it all screwed up also and need to rewrite page 62 of their Tig Handbook.Then again, with your vast tig experience, I'm sure you know it all.PS.  The only reason I even suggested that the OP may be contaminating his filler was, if you look at a couple of his beads, they were bright and shiny with no porosity.  Then when he started adding filler the beads showed up full of porosity.  Normally, with bad gas, a problem shows up right away and doesn't go away.I've explained a simple means for testing your gas before, but I'll do it one more time.  Take a clean piece of aluminum.  Clean it further (to break up the oxides) with a SS brush.  Wipe down with acetone/rag.  Position your tungsten over the workpiece.  Initiate an arc.  Bring the amps up til a puddle forms.  Move the puddle in a small circle.  Back off on the amps til the arc breaks.  Puddle should be clean, shiny and free of porosity.  If not, then you've got a gas problem.  This test eliminates the majority of "outside factors", such as filler contamination that could cause problems with the weld bead.Last edited by SundownIII; 05-14-2012 at 12:46 PM.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIJon K,Didn't like my comment, huh?Maybe you should contact Miller and tell them that they've got it all screwed up also and need to rewrite page 62 of their Tig Handbook.Then again, with your vast tig experience, I'm sure you know it all.PS.  The only reason I even suggested that the OP may be contaminating his filler was, if you look at a couple of his beads, they were bright and shiny with no porosity.  Then when he started adding filler the beads showed up full of porosity.  Normally, with bad gas, a problem shows up right away and doesn't go away.I've explained a simple means for testing your gas before, but I'll do it one more time.  Take a clean piece of aluminum.  Clean it further (to break up the oxides) with a SS brush.  Wipe down with acetone/rag.  Position your tungsten over the workpiece.  Initiate an arc.  Bring the amps up til a puddle forms.  Move the puddle in a small circle.  Back off on the amps til the arc breaks.  Puddle should be clean, shiny and free of porosity.  If not, then you've got a gas problem.  This test eliminates the majority of "outside factors", such as filler contamination that could cause problems with the weld bead.
Reply:Dam the dude found the problem last week some time if you two want to duke it out or have a weld it out contest let's do it because this is getting old I could care less about Sundown's weld pictures. Mods please lock this topic.Will   Supports Autism Awareness                            My ToysBobCat 225 PLusMillermatic 130Miller Spectrum 300 CutmateEverlast Power Tig 185 Micro April is Autism Month .
Reply:Originally Posted by SteelwillDam the dude found the problem last week some time if you two want to duke it out or have a weld it out contest let's do it because this is getting old I could care less about Sundown's weld pictures. Mods please lock this topic.
Reply:Originally Posted by hoghttp://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=116681  You might want to look here before you call him out again, he"s contrary as hell but obviously knows his trade.
Reply:Filler Rod holderWelding table i made for work out of some left over steel.My Ford 8N I just finished restoring. Already got her working the field.
Reply:Nice work and nice tractor man, lookin for a 8n myself right now. I'm runnin a kubota mx5100 but the ol lady needs something to give me a hand. I'm on 87acres and it's a handfull by myself. Cool stuff! I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys