Tieing into a tack on root pass on pipe

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I'm having a problem every time I'm tieing into a tack when welding my root on pipe! I feather the edge paper thin on the tack and when I'm welding up onto it and then breaking the arc I'm constantly getting a bubble or a crater! What am I doing wrong! Is there a certain technique for tieing into tacks on pipe?Il attach a pic so u can see what I mean!Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Looks like you started/stopped right on the edge of the tack. Try welding past the edge so it ties in the tack a little more while speeding up travel speed so the puddle gets smaller then break the arc. Your root pass is looking really good.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Sometimes they just come out that way. 6010 is not an exact science. Your only other option is grind thin and burn all the way through the whole tack.
Reply:Are we looking at the inside of the pipe here? If so, are you welding your 'root pass' from the inside? What is you gap, land, rod size, amps?
Reply:thats the inside, hes welding from the outside though. Thats what a 6010  root looks like from the backside/inside of the pipe- Christian M.C3 Welding & Fabrication - CNC Plasma Cutting-Mobile Welding-Custom welding and fabwww.c3welding.com
Reply:Thats tge backside of the weld, wow he is good.Fireman BillHH 210 MVPMM 211 Spoolmate 100Lotas LTP5000D PlasmaOxy/Accet (Victor)Wards AC/DC buzz box30 ton old hyd pressA few brand name toolsA bunch of cheap toolsA wife to worry me and4 dogs to supervise me
Reply:That happens to me every once in awhile. I feather a ramp in my tacks with a die grinder. Then run up to the middle of the tack, and stop there. Feather that stop out with the die grinder, and start 1/2 to 3/4-inch ahead of the stop, and walk back to the stop, and start again. Some pipe welders use bridge tacks, and cut them out before they get to the bridge tack. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Try pulling pulling out of your tack at the top of the crown of your feathered tack,I agree with the others you are pulling out of your tack as soon as you enter.when I tie in to the tack I slow down my travel speed and slowly whip back into puddle at least twice before slowly pulling out,trying to prevent a crater with a recess in the middle.Inspectors don't like a crater on the root pass from my experience.Ideally you want a slick looking root pass, and cannot tell where you tie in to the tacks.Keep practicing you will get it down pat.       william
Reply:Something else you can try: Make it where your side tacks are going in the same direction of travel as your root, that way you tie in to the start of the tack and not the keyhole like you did there. You can make it that way on the side tacks, but of course you are going to have one keyhole tie in at the top, but, up there gravity will help a little. What I always like to do when tacking is to speed up approaching the end so the keyhole is smaller, that way you don't have a big hole to fill up.
Reply:Originally Posted by TimmyTIGSomething else you can try: Make it where your side tacks are going in the same direction of travel as your root
Reply:I always hated taking a stick test. I busted out on a pipeline test up in Wyoming once, had a tiny speck of undercut on the bottom tack tie in going downhill. Inspector says: "wellllllll.... I don't know, you think you can fix that spot?""Oh yeah, I can fix that, no sweat."So I grinded it thin and ran back over it, burned thru and pushed it in real nice. Inspector says: "yeah, we ain't gonna be able to use you, you got outside the rest of your bead right there."It was a spot about an eighth long and a sixteenth wider than the rest of it.
Reply:I weld 4 spots between the tacks, then grind the tacks out and weld up the rest of the pipe.ChrisAuction Addict
Reply:I run three tacks, 12, 6 and 3 o'clock. Feather 12 o'clock Burn 6 to 12 thru 9. Feather 6 and 3 o'clock.  Burn 6 to 3, consuming the 3 o'clock tack. Feather 12 o'clock again. Burn thru 12 o'clock to tie into the other side of the root. Leaves only one spot to worry about.  Sent from my SGH-M919 using TapatalkLong after the price is forgotten, the quality will remain.Both of my Poppy's 1954 Short Hoods -Third generation to weld with it and teaching a fourthSA 2## - Bought and sold more than I can remember or care to list, 8 in the shop right now
Reply:Don't over think what you are doing here. If you prepare ( grind ) that area  correctly, and are running your hot pass correctly, that little crater will fill in nicely.
Reply:Originally Posted by TimmyTIGI always hated taking a stick test. I busted out on a pipeline test up in Wyoming once, had a tiny speck of undercut on the bottom tack tie in going downhill. Inspector says: "wellllllll.... I don't know, you think you can fix that spot?""Oh yeah, I can fix that, no sweat."So I grinded it thin and ran back over it, burned thru and pushed it in real nice. Inspector says: "yeah, we ain't gonna be able to use you, you got outside the rest of your bead right there."It was a spot about an eighth long and a sixteenth wider than the rest of it.
Reply:I haven't done 6010 in a while... What everyone is saying about pulling out too early is what I'd say.Also, when I tie into the tack, I shorten my steps and hold it bit longer after each step to really burn it in.