4X6 bandsaw motor

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I was cutting off some 1.5X3” .125 box last night with the 4X6 bandsaw and after two cuts the motor was too hot to touch. I guess it’s about time for the famed replacement motor. This guy put in the Grizzly ¾ HP motor but discussed the ½ and 1HP.http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm#sequelHas anyone switched their motor, which did you choose and any suggestions on doing it?What did you use to re-enforce the baseplate?You know, when I bought this little thing I never imagined I would be using it this much.thanksRaymond
Reply:Raymond, If you go back in with the same frame size, and at the moment I can't remember whether that was a 48 or a 56, you shouldn't have to do anything other than swap the bolts off and on. I pulled a motor off the shelf that I had liberated from the scrapyard and one of their scrap furnaces for $1.20 and installed it on a friend's bandsaw in this size range with no problems. I believe the motor was a 1/4 hp unit, but you shouldn't have any problems if you stick with a higher hp unit in the same frame size and speed. Watch out for the rotation if the replacement motor is non-reversible.
Reply:You need a NEMA 56 frame motor with a 5/8" shaft. I keep thinking the motor on mine is going to die, it gets hotter than Franz listening to a Hillary speech.  But it keeps on cutting. I  was cutting a bunch of 2x2x1/4" tubing the other day. I put a shop fan blowing on the motor.when it dies this is the best price I've found, should work ok.http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=36549They have them in stock at the nearby HF store.By the way I'm still cutting with the first "Starrett blade that I brazed.HF expert Jim
Reply:Tell us more about blade brazing! why braze, not weld and do you use special rod, flux or process?
Reply:Look at this threadhttp://www.weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread...=&threadid=208And this threadhttp://www.weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread...=&threadid=146Last edited by fla jim; 03-03-2004 at 03:04 PM.
Reply:My 30 year old 4x6 Taiwon motor is still ticking along and does not get hot. Jim, nice pics of the bandsaw brazing but have you tried silver solder? It takes me about......7 seconds to do the joint and I only do one side. The excess is so small that I usually just file it off.
Reply:Mike;I think the older Taiwan motors were much higher quality than the current Chi-com motors. I thought about silver. But the article I read mentioned brazing. Now I have a bunch of brazing rod.
Reply:it seems that these motors are sold at 1200, 1800 and 3600 RPM: any ideas on the best speed?
Reply:The current motor is 1800 nominal speed(1720). Replace it with the same so you will keep the same blade speed, without having to mess with the pulleys.
Reply:Jim, try some 50% silver solder and you will like it. It wicks into the joint and is very strong. I put a dab of flux on the blade joint and heat it up. The flux goes molten at about the right temperature. I then touch the silver solder at the joint and it flows right in. Did I say minimal cleanup?
Reply:Originally posted by Mike W Jim, try some 50% silver solder and you will like it. It wicks into the joint and is very strong. I put a dab of flux on the blade joint and heat it up. The flux goes molten at about the right temperature. I then touch the silver solder at the joint and it flows right in. Did I say minimal cleanup?
Reply:I just looked at the container. Harris safety-silv 45. It is actually 45% silver brazing alloy, 1/16 diameter. AWS A5.8 BAg-5.
Reply:looking at the motor last night I discovered that the pulley was crushing the plastic cover. Removing the plastic cover and re-aligning the pulley's let the motor run freely and cool. Maybe I'm OK for now.