1" thick steel needs help welding

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I have a small job I want to do. I have this hook that part of my quick hitch for my tractor.The problem is the hook need to come out 1" long to hook up to my 3 point hitch attachments.So If I weld on this block of steel to extend the holes it will work. My question after grinding a 30 deg. bevel should it be on one side or both sides.Next heating the metal and tack weld the two ends so they don't move. Should I clamp the piece to a table?Next after the root pass will the piece start to warp with the heat of the weld?I'll us my Lincoln AC225 stick with 1/8 7018 rod. I guess the amps would be between  90 and 130.I have one shot at doing this right.It should look like this when done. Attached Images
Reply:Do you have one inch thick steel ? It might be better to cut out two new ones instead of welding to the existing .
Reply:Originally Posted by JKRI'll us my Lincoln AC225 stick with 1/8 7018 rod. I guess the amps would be between  90 and 130.I have one shot at doing this right.
Reply:DSW has some excellent advice.  If I ever have a one-shot job, I do my best to practice and "tune up" on scrap before doing the money welds.
Reply:Thank you for your help. I have been practicing 1" weld. I did OK , but OK not good enough for me.I found a guy that has a water Jet and will cut out a new one for me. I think it will the best way to go.I will still play around with welding thick plate for fun. One day I will fell comfortable with it like I'm with 1/2" or less.
Reply:Originally Posted by JKR My question after grinding a 30 deg. bevel should it be on one side or both sides.Next heating the metal and tack weld the two ends so they don't move. Should I clamp the piece to a table?
Reply:Root pass with 6011 and cap pass with 7018. Lots of bevel, clean to shinny metal out past the weld zone, clamp tight onto your table weld 1/4 way and flip then weld the same. Continue until your done. I have installed several on my tractors in the past with no weld up issues. Prep it good and paint it well because mine wanted to really rust in the weld area. Good luck...........Fireman BillHH 210 MVPMM 211 Spoolmate 100Lotas LTP5000D PlasmaOxy/Accet (Victor)Wards AC/DC buzz box30 ton old hyd pressA few brand name toolsA bunch of cheap toolsA wife to worry me and4 dogs to supervise me
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauJust to answer this part of your question. Since you can get to both sides to weld, the bevel should be from both sides to the center of the piece. Clamp it down to the table, weld one side and flip it over to do the other side. Alternate from one side to the other while welding and this should help minimize any warping. Be sure to clean the flux on each side between passes. And yes, get the amps up over 130 on this thick material to get the heat/penetration you need. Good call on getting a new piece cut for this project, since you are not satisfied yet with your welding on 1" steel. But for your practicing, do as mentioned above.
Reply:Originally Posted by JKRThank you for your help. I have been practicing 1" weld. I did OK , but OK not good enough for me.I found a guy that has a water Jet and will cut out a new one for me. I think it will the best way to go.
Reply:Originally Posted by 4sfedCheck the hardness of the original part with a file.  If it's part of a hitch, it's probably not low carbon steel.  You may be better off modifying the original part.
Reply:Originally Posted by JKRThank you for your help. I have been practicing 1" weld. I did OK , but OK not good enough for me.I found a guy that has a water Jet and will cut out a new one for me. I think it will the best way to go.I will still play around with welding thick plate for fun. One day I will fell comfortable with it like I'm with 1/2" or less.
Reply:If you want perfection, water jet is the way to go.We had the two plates shown below cut with water jet by a custom fabricator. The material is 1" thick.  The arc shape and all the holes were cut with water jet.The plates were to enable us to straighten the axle & mast mounting flanges of a Mitsubishi forklift that had suffered a very traumatic, sidewise "T-bone" type of impact to one of the drive axle wheels.The other photo shows how we used the two plates and 3 of 1" all thread rods to draw the frame back into alignment. Attached Images
Reply:You'll also need to remember to preheat the part before welding.  Beveling both sides is called a K-Bevel and would be paramount in this application.  I'd leave about a 1/16 to an 1/8 landing on the bevel, meaning you do not grind it to a sharp point.  I'd also leave a small gap between the two pieces so that you're sure to get complete penetration.  When it comes to code welding, which is what this would need to be if liabilities mattered, the root would completely penetrate and create a solid foundation for your fill passes.  When all was said and done it would be one solid piece without, hopefully, any imperfections.It's quite possible to create a weld that is as strong as the new piece but experience and equipment help.  I once fabricated a lifting eye for a 50,000 pound vertical pressure tank that would bolt to the top and centered man-way.  The lifting eye was cut from 1-1/2" steel and had the K-Bevel.  Worked like a champ.  I'd keep playing with the thick stuff and build some experience before you try your hand at this particular piece.  Probably was best to get a new piece cut this time.Matthew MortonTexas A&M '06Logsdon Seminary '13"Who Dares Wins""AFTF""WH2PH"SA 200 (Code: 5337)TB 302CP 302 w/22A Wire FeederMillerMatic 200Miller Syncrowave 200MillerMatic 252BurnTables 4x4 CNC MachineHypertherm 65
Reply:Originally Posted by matt1mortonYou'll also need to remember to preheat the part before welding.  Beveling both sides is called a K-Bevel and would be paramount in this application.  I'd leave about a 1/16 to an 1/8 landing on the bevel, meaning you do not grind it to a sharp point.  I'd also leave a small gap between the two pieces so that you're sure to get complete penetration.  When it comes to code welding, which is what this would need to be if liabilities mattered, the root would completely penetrate and create a solid foundation for your fill passes.  When all was said and done it would be one solid piece without, hopefully, any imperfections.It's quite possible to create a weld that is as strong as the new piece but experience and equipment help.  I once fabricated a lifting eye for a 50,000 pound vertical pressure tank that would bolt to the top and centered man-way.  The lifting eye was cut from 1-1/2" steel and had the K-Bevel.  Worked like a champ.  I'd keep playing with the thick stuff and build some experience before you try your hand at this particular piece.  Probably was best to get a new piece cut this time.
Reply:I'm having the hook cut with a water jet.  So for now I'm practicing  welding 1" plate. Not as hard as I though it would be. I just have to be slow and be careful not to warp the steel. Pre-heat is a must and clamp it to a table. The hard part is turning it over and over and re-clamping it. When I get done I will cut it in half and see what kind of weld I did.Like you guys say Practice practice and more practice on until you get it right.
Reply:"What rod did you use???"On that particular setup I was using .045 flux-core.  If I had been welding it with rod, I would have used 5/32 7018 at about 160 DC.Matthew MortonTexas A&M '06Logsdon Seminary '13"Who Dares Wins""AFTF""WH2PH"SA 200 (Code: 5337)TB 302CP 302 w/22A Wire FeederMillerMatic 200Miller Syncrowave 200MillerMatic 252BurnTables 4x4 CNC MachineHypertherm 65
Reply:Originally Posted by matt1morton"What rod did you use???"On that particular setup I was using .045 flux-core.  If I had been welding it with rod, I would have used 5/32 7018 at about 160 DC.
Reply:I used 5/32 7018
Reply:I would just run 1/8 7018 multiple pass. And if your worried do a preheat.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkif you can step across it I can weld it.