End table project

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I'm in the process of building an end table for the bedroom. It's a pretty basic design using 1/8x1x1 angle for the entire project. The plan is for a top and then a bottom shelf just above the floor. Approx size will be 16x16x28 tall. I'll be updating this thread with pictures as I go. Here is where I'm at so far.I plan on using plywood covered with some dark wood veneer for the top and the shelf. I will be attaching the wood to the bottom of the angle iron. That way both the top and the shelf will have the metal trim around them, as well as hiding the edges of the plywood so I dont have to finish them. I've been kicking around ideas on how to attach the wood to the under side of the angle. One idea is to epoxy it in place and clamp it up till it dries. My other thought was to clamp the wood up in there and then weld some 90 degree tabs holding it in on each side. I want a smooth metal trim around the top so that eliminates bolting, riveting, etc.Any other ideas to attach it from underneath?
Reply:If the fasteners are going to be mounted from underneath, they shouldn't show if they are flush mounted. Counter sunk screws comes to mind right away. I've also seen some stuff mounted with simple pop rivets. Use a but of epoxy on the rivets when you insert them and after they expand and the epoxy dries they are locked in place fairly well. The wood won't take any stress at the fasteners since it's supported by the angle iron. All the rivets have to do is simply hold the plywood tight. I doubt the rivets would show, but if that bothers you, counter sink them slightly. If you are painting, you can always hide counter sunk fasteners with a bit of bondo if you have to.Adhesives, even construction adhesive or a good urethane caulk  would probably work if the plywood is flat along with the steel frame..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:wood screws  work for what you need..
Reply:Originally Posted by DSW The wood won't take any stress at the fasteners since it's supported by the angle iron.
Reply:an idea for the top would be to cut your veneer peice to fit inside the the angle so it sits flush(if you havent already thought of it)
Reply:You could weld short studs to the underside of the angle to run through matching holes in the plywood. Drill a slightly larger hole halfway or less through the plywood for nuts to be recessed into. Just deep enough to hide the nuts underneath. That will hold it in there and you can take them off later if you need to refinish the wood for some reason. Just make sure the studs are cut short enough that they don't protrude below the plywood. Use a washer before the nut.Or else you could put the wood in and then weld a 1x1x1/8" of flat bar in on each side(to the angle iron) under the plywood, just a small tab so to speak. Either 2 on opposite sides or 1 on each side, your choice. Just make short welds so as not to burn the wood too much. A little bit of tack, and move to another and another as the first cools, then go around again till you think it is strong enough.Last edited by Bistineau; 02-21-2013 at 12:05 PM.
Reply:Sorry I was thinking it was flipped the other way around. In that case you could weld studs or bolts on as Bistineau suggested, or even tack weld nuts to the underside and counter sink the plywood for them. One other way to do the studs would be to drill thru both the steel and the plywood at the same time. Then insert the threaded rod or cut off bolts and plug weld the top. You'll have to grind the top anyways to deal with the welds on the angle, so the plug welds won't really matter.Construction adhesive would definitely work for what you want to do as well. The problem with most epoxies is that they are very thin and runny. If you don't have a good tight fit, you won't get a good bond. If you go with something like the West System epoxy, they do sell thickening agents so you can get the epoxy to almost a putty consistency. One other thing I have seen done is for you to tape and seal the bottom of the plywood tight to the steel frame. it might even pay to run a small bead of caulk to seal the gap tight. then after the caulk dries, flip the top and level it. Mix and pour in your clear epoxy over the top until it's flush with the steel frame. Here the fact the epoxy is like water will work for you, as it will flow into every nook and cranny and seal the top. Down side is if you have one leak, you'll have a real mess. Usually when I've seen this done they don't use regular epoxies, but special clear 2 part "plastics". I know Smooth-On and Polytek both sell clear casting resins that would work for this..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Some great ideas guys! Thanks. Fortunately the company I work for is a supplier for West Systems. Ive already got the epoxy and high density filler (thickening agent) in my shed at home so I may go that route. I think i'm going to plan on sealing the wood top and the metal frame together to help keep it clean, waterproof, etcWest system sells a special clear hardener I may pick up to do flush clear top as well like DSW described. If I dont go the route of sealing the whole top flush with clear, I'll go the stud route in case I ever want to refinish the wood as Bistineau mentioned. I've got some time to think about it while I finish fabbing up the table frame. I'll keep ya guys updated with pictures of my progress. Thanks for the ideas everyone!
Reply:I like the stud idea, but rather than putting the nuts against the screws, I think I'd add a backing plate behind the wood against which the nuts would rest.  Think of it as a 16" x 1" washer with several holes, instead of just a small round one.  I think that would spread the force more evenly, just in case the tabletop ever gets overloaded.I always have had an eye for overengineering, though.
Reply:I was able to finish up the table over the weekend. I'm pretty happy with the result. I ended up attaching the wood to the shelves by clamping strips of metal to the wood and frames and then welding it in place.  Attached Images
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Reply:I already had the plywood, primer, and paint. I got the formica and glue from a friend for free. Really the only out of pocket cost was the length of 1/8x1x1 angle. Not a bad little table for $15 and about 5hrs of work!
Reply:Looks nice, simple design but very functional.Will   Supports Autism Awareness                            My ToysBobCat 225 PLusMillermatic 130Miller Spectrum 300 CutmateEverlast Power Tig 185 Micro April is Autism Month .
Reply:Simple but nice. It looks great.PlasmaCam CNC cutterLathe and Band SawClamps
Reply:Cool and very sturdy end table. Like dark color of the wood and the steel. Great work!
Reply:Thanks guys! Yeah i'm pretty happy with it.I had to cheat and grind the bottom of two of the legs just a tad (1/4"-ish) to get the wobble out of it. Still working on my fit-up, measuring, cutting etc. But not too bad I guess considering I've never worked with metal before I got the welder 2 months ago.
Reply:Originally Posted by thebuckI was able to finish up the table over the weekend. I'm pretty happy with the result. I ended up attaching the wood to the shelves by clamping strips of metal to the wood and frames and then welding it in place.
Reply:Yeah once I got to kicking around all the options in my head, that seemed simplest to me. I did think about just using small tabs, but I scored the flat bar for free. The company I work for has a BIG ol pile of that flat bar (among all sorts of other metal) laying around from some old metal shelve units that are no longer being used in the warehouse. I prolly have 20 ft of it left I took already and that barely put a dent in the pile in the warehouse. And that reminds me, I'm gonna take some more home tonight before someone else takes it for scrap or something. If nothing else, I know where I have a stash of 56" in my bedroom!