Options for coatings when making furniture?

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I'm going to make some of my own furniture for my new place using various diameter steel tube etc.  Besides powdercoating, what other surface finish options are there that are suitable for furniture? Most of what I am going to make will need to be black when completed.
Reply:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...able+pic+heavyI used some euro putty for the seams and Rustoleum Matt black on the above and it's held up to 2 years of abuse with no issues.
Reply:Lately, I've taken to using a wire brush  wheel on the angle grinder.   I brush the surface steel and make concentric "swirl" marks on the surface.   Then I coat the surface with a simple gloss or flat clear-coat of whatever I can find.   The metal sometimes has like a brushed "stainless" look with the clear coat, yet costs much less than actual stainless steel.  If cash isn't a concern, you could also clear powder coat if you want to take it to a Finisher.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Spray paint.John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:I have had good luck with rustoleum paint, including outdoors.Note that in painting, it is all in the prep, including sanding and degreasing.Richard Originally Posted by RSDI'm going to make some of my own furniture for my new place using various diameter steel tube etc.  Besides powdercoating, what other surface finish options are there that are suitable for furniture? Most of what I am going to make will need to be black when completed.
Reply:X2 on the Rustolium.Spend time on the prep. Thin for spraying and go for it.Moderate cost. 3 years before it'll need it again.Be wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:Many thanks for the replies everyone.  Could someone please post a link to which Rustoleum product that you are using, as I'm not seeing one that sounds like it is what you are using - it could be possible that not all of their range is sold down here.
Reply:Dahm! You ask the toughest questions.I buy the quart cans of color or "Rusty Metal Primer" they are simply marked with the Rustoleum brand name. No hammered-wet-looking-special-finish.They are on the shelves at Lowes, Home Depot and Wal Mart. Color choices will vary by store.Make sure to pick up plenty of mineral spirits in the metal can for thinning. (Plastic bottles for thinner? Bad outcome)I tried to find a URL for the plain old Rustolium product and the best I came up with was the Wikipedia article.Call it old school, but sometimes the tried and true works best.Be wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:I'm a big fan of the 2x coverage stuff, I use it all the time at work. http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...ltra-cover-2x/On steel deck railings, I've used the hammered spray paint by them with really good results. http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...ed-spray-paintThe texture really helps hide any small imperfections in the metal, and it is weathering very well up in snow country on my parent's house.If you really want a professional look, paint it first, then clear coat over that. There are also a ton of really cool chemical patina solutions out there, I see them used all the time in high end architectural metal work around here. Blotch it on with a rag, wait ten minutes, and clean it off, then clear coat.
Reply:If you want to have high lights of other colors or make it antique looking then you might try gilder's paste. You can clear coat or powder coat over it or you can just buff it to a sheen. Truely beautiful colors and shades can be achieved.https://www.gilderspaste.com/I usually put a coat of flat paint down first and smear or wash in the gilders paste over it. If you are going to clear coat powder coat over it then use BBQ paint as a base layer. Attached ImagesLast edited by Bob; 05-20-2014 at 10:19 PM.
Reply:OK many thanks for all of your help - I've located them now on the Aussie websites - took a bit of hunting but got there in the end! Originally Posted by mike837goDahm! You ask the toughest questions.
Reply:What are you guys using to clean and de-grease the metal prior to primer? Ive used acetone and it cleans really well, however the paint doesn't seem to ever cure correctly (you can dig into it with your finger nail and scrape off the paint and primer)Lincoln Pro Mig 180Lincoln Pro Core 125Hypertherm 30xpPorter Cable Drill PressAcra 7x12 bandsaw48" sheet metal brakeCrap load of other tools, working on metal now.
Reply:Originally Posted by KMcCurdyWhat are you guys using to clean and de-grease the metal prior to primer? Ive used acetone and it cleans really well, however the paint doesn't seem to ever cure correctly (you can dig into it with your finger nail and scrape off the paint and primer)
Reply:Cool. Thanks for the info guys. I do have a few powder coat guys in my area. I have used them for some motorcycle brackets and such, and they took forever. Maybe Ill try the route of blasting it on my own, then taking it to them.Lincoln Pro Mig 180Lincoln Pro Core 125Hypertherm 30xpPorter Cable Drill PressAcra 7x12 bandsaw48" sheet metal brakeCrap load of other tools, working on metal now.