Kubota tractor part made.

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A guy brought me this bracket that had an ear broke off and wanted me to make another bracket from 1/2" plate. That was the easy part. As the bolts were metric and had a taper like the old VW wheel studs. So i dreamed up a tapered washer to use between the 7/16" grade 8 bolts i found and made the tapered washers from 3/4" 4140 barstock. Then the braket had tapered seats on the side where the bearing housing sat. So i had to rig up a way to drill the taper using a 4 flute 1 1/16 #3 MT drill bit which doesn't fit my drill press. So i used my lathe spindle to hold the #3 MT drill (and it does fit the SB lathe spindle just fine). And i held the plate to drill with my compound mounted angle plate and some vise grips. Oh i used my 8" 4 jaw chuck to hold the plate to bore the 3" round hole for the bearing housing. Then i had to bandsaw the 2" split in it. Nice hour job on this crummy day outside. My buddy is going to weld it back on the tractor where ever he cut it off of. Enjoy...Bob Attached ImagesBob WrightSalem, Ohio  Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drillhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbend10k/http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sawking/1999 Miller MM185 w/ Miller 185 Spoolmate spoolgun
Reply:4 more pics...Bob Attached ImagesBob WrightSalem, Ohio  Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drillhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbend10k/http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sawking/1999 Miller MM185 w/ Miller 185 Spoolmate spoolgun
Reply:Awsome job bro! Came out great I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Maybe I'm missing the point of this. Why drill the tapered holes in the new plate if you are using standard nuts and bolts? I can see the need for tapered washers to allow the use of standard bolts with  the original piece, or I can see the need for tapered holes if using the original bolts, but not a need for both unless I missed something....No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWMaybe I'm missing the point of this. Why drill the tapered holes in the new plate if you are using standard nuts and bolts? I can see the need for tapered washers to allow the use of standard bolts with  the original piece, or I can see the need for tapered holes if using the original bolts, but not a need for both unless I missed something...
Reply:aametalmasterYou have grade 8 bolts, and grade 0 nuts.Nylocs are not an implement lock nut.Opus
Reply:Looks good from here
Reply:i miss manual machining well done good use of the four jaw
Reply:Great work! Looks really great and well made. __________________________-www.sawblade.com
Reply:Originally Posted by OPUS FERROaametalmasterYou have grade 8 bolts, and grade 0 nuts.Nylocs are not an implement lock nut.Opus
Reply:Those look like Grade 8 Nylocs to me.Good job on that part, Bob.http://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:It was definitely a labor of love. Turned out awesome! Nice job man!PlasmaCam CNC cutterLathe and Band SawClamps
Reply:ZTFab Good to see you again.Agreed, the dimples are the tell.Heavy equipment manufactures generally use Nylocs on peripheral mounts, and not on main frame components.Grade 8, fine thread, hard washers, with solid steel lock nuts, are the typical standard for main frames fixturing.  Heavy-hex is also common.This combination is the most cooperative with a hot-wrench on latent repairs. Plastic is for tourists.OpusLast edited by OPUS FERRO; 03-07-2013 at 02:09 AM.Reason: punc.
Reply:The same reason for tapered lug nuts...........................The idea is to center the wheel/part with no radial movement once it's secured.  You don't want this thing walking on you, it'll tear out the bolt holes, and eventually shear the bolts.Tapered holes also allow for wear if a fastener becomes loose in service.  Instead of a wallowed out hole you simply retighten the bolt, and it draws down into the taper for a new seat.  In a perfect worldNylocs, and distorted nuts, are pretty common on parts subject to vibration.  I can't tell you how many deformed nuts are used in my truck suspensions  I sort of feel this is ok, but if the bolt really gets loose it will still lead to destruction of the part.  It's torque that provides your safety margin, not things like Nylocs and cotter pins.  UNLESS YOU FORGET TO TORQUE THE BOLT "Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabThose look like Grade 8 Nylocs to me.Good job on that part, Bob.
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcZT, just as I can't tell what grade nut those are from the pic, how can you?   I'm just curious and wondering if my eyes are missing something.
Reply:SuperArc  -  I was mistaken. "You have grade 8 bolts, and grade 0 nuts."ZTFab was gracious when busting my privates for my oversight."Those look like Grade 8 Nylocs to me"  -  ZTF"Agreed, the dimples are the tell"  -  OFSuperArc  -  Dimples on the crown of a Nyloc denote its grade. I didn't saw the dimples until ZTF's austere observation.  Nyloc - Grade 8 identification noted   -   plastic is still for tourist.  OpusLast edited by OPUS FERRO; 03-08-2013 at 04:39 AM.Reason: punc.