TIG weld pic

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Just a pic of a weld I did using a Lincoln TIG/ARC welder. If anybody has any advice for me I'm all ears. Attached Images
Reply:If you state the amps, rod size, electrode size and type, gas used, material type and thickness-- this helps.Welding on dirty, rusted, pitted stock isn't good, even for practice; even thoughyou'll notice lots of pictures posted here, where this is done.Apparently the tungsten dipped into the puddle, leaving that smokey-reddish hue.Time to change or redress the tungsten-every time that happens.Blackbird
Reply:I dont remember what the amperage was set at. But the tungsten was 2% thoriated 1/8". Filler material was 3/32" steel rod. Base metal was a piece of 1/4" steel sheet. Gas: straight Argon. I know I shoulda prepped the base metal better but Im definitely not gonna say "no" to any chance to TIG weld. Also all the scrap metal we have has seen better days lol.   But thanks alot, Dave for the info. I was wondering what the smokey red stuff was.Other than the fact that I contaminated my Tungsten how does the weld itself look? This is literally the 3rd or 4th time I've touched a TIG torch ever. Thanks
Reply:Very good!Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Looks like u dipped ur tungsten.http://www.facebook.com/LockhartMetalArthttp://www.facebook.com/pages/Grumpy...44306259043484
Reply:If your really serious about learning how to tig weld, start with clean quality material.  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:I know I'm still a newb, but the left part looks like too much filler or too fast travel speed likely resulting in little penetration, and the opposite for the right-most part.  The bead width shows either you were getting close to the edge or you slowed down a tad and/or used a bit less filler.  Am I close?
Reply:Tig welding is so much more that firing up an arc and dabbing filler,  Preparation is EVERYTHING  especially with Aluminum.....If you ever notice how nice a weld looks,look at the rest of the part and notice how clean it is......You won't see too many quality welds made on dirty material...that's just how it works.......  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Originally Posted by B_CIf your really serious about learning how to tig weld, start with clean quality material.
Reply:Originally Posted by B_CTig welding is so much more that firing up an arc and dabbing filler,  Preparation is EVERYTHING  especially with Aluminum.....If you ever notice how nice a weld looks,look at the rest of the part and notice how clean it is......You won't see too many quality welds made on dirty material...that's just how it works.......
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarI know I'm still a newb, but the left part looks like too much filler or too fast travel speed likely resulting in little penetration, and the opposite for the right-most part.  The bead width shows either you were getting close to the edge or you slowed down a tad and/or used a bit less filler.  Am I close?
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonVery good!
Reply:Originally Posted by grumpycricketLooks like u dipped ur tungsten.
Reply:Originally Posted by emeraldbisonH     With that being said if I was to do a serious TIG welding piece I would definitely spend alot of time on it.       The above pictured TIG weld was the result of having a small window of time to get some TIG practice in so I took it. I would never turn down an opportunity to weld anything. Especially at this point in my new found love for welding.
Reply:I graduated from welding school 2 years ago. I do fabrication no pipe (as far as chemical or industrial) and my thought is I try to learn something every time I strike an ark to better my skills all the time. After 6 months in school and 2 years on MY OWN I still am not a master at this art. I try to practice on odd material and positions at least 3 times a week to stay sharp. I don't weld every day or maybee for weeks (as far as work) but I still practice to stay sharp. You never know when that wierd opportunity is going to come along and you can have the confidence to say hell ya I can knock this out.
Reply:Originally Posted by tig dummyI graduated from welding school 2 years ago. I do fabrication no pipe (as far as chemical or industrial) and my thought is I try to learn something every time I strike an ark to better my skills all the time. After 6 months in school and 2 years on MY OWN I still am not a master at this art. I try to practice on odd material and positions at least 3 times a week to stay sharp. I don't weld every day or maybee for weeks (as far as work) but I still practice to stay sharp. You never know when that wierd opportunity is going to come along and you can have the confidence to say hell ya I can knock this out.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWIf you have time for practice, you have time to do it right. Practice is useless if all you are doing is learning bad habits or trying to cut corners. I try to hammer this home all the time to guys at the tech school. they can't understand why they can't get their bevel plates to weld well. I keep telling them 95% of the work is in the prep. A well prepped piece is easy. Poorly prepped pieces are a nightmare. It's why some times they do ok on part of the piece and then things fall apart just a bit farther along.Best suggestion is to take this in small bites. Try and keep as many variables out of the equation as possible. Work on one thing at a time... Usually I suggest students start off with doing beads with no filler, so that's out of the equation for now. Then rest their hand on the material and slide their hand along the work, so they can maintain a constant distance from tungsten to work. Next is trying to slide your hand at a constant speed forward, with no oscillation or fancy torch movements. Last thing is controlling he arc with the pedal. Start off trying to see what happens when you increase/decrease the amps as you go along. Do this until you can get and maintain a puddle size you like/need.Next set your amps at 20% below optimum ( for 1/8" instead of say 125-135, set the machine at 100-110) now do the same drill again, only this time floor the pedal and change a different variable. Run the torch higher and lower and see what happens, or change travel speeds going faster, then slower. You want to see just what each variable does. Then start trying to combine 2 or more all at the same time...Finally go back to the basic 1st drill using just the pedal to vary the amps, but now start to add filler to run plain beads. I usually suggest starting out using the lay wire method. Start a puddle on the plate and then move the puddle until it reaches your filler. Keep the filler in contact with the plate and remember you melt the filler with the puddle, not the arc. Another easy filler method is to slide the filler on the plate in and out of the puddle as needed, or to "tap" the filler. "Stabbing" or dipping usually requires the most eye hand coordination and usually is something that guys find easier to pick up after they have more of the basics down to an instinctive basis. It's sort of like trying to pat your belly and rub your head at the same time... it can be done, but you need to practice a lot. The problem is with tig, you are also doing 3 other things at the same time...Once you can do decent plain beads, then we can start you on flat joints. Good luck.
Reply:Originally Posted by emeraldbisonA lot of great points and information, thank you so much. I really like your suggestion of sliding the filler into the puddle rather than dabbing, much less risk of touching your tungsten right? The lay wire method is pretty sweet too. I can't wait to try them! I really hate to cut corners and I hate when my coworkers do it as well because most of the time their putting other peoples safety at risk, not to mention there own. I agree I should have prepared my base metal first and foremost, I was a tad impatient that day and just grabbed the first piece of metal I saw and headed for the work bench and picked up the torch in one hand the filler in the other and stepped on the pedal. (with a helmet and gloves on of course) Next time I'll spend a lot more time on the preparation even if that means waiting till the next day to even strike an Arc.Thanks again
Reply:The only down side to sliding the filler is that it will some times feel like it wants to stick to the base material. Then it's tough to get the filler to feed smoothly and you have to just hold the filler slightly off the plate. I find that if students can keep the filler in contact with the plate, it helps dampen out some of the "wobble" that they have, especially when they are new and are trying to feed a long piece of wire since they haven't yet learned to feed the filler thru their fingers so they can work with a shorter piece.Yes it helps keep guys from touching the tungsten if you use those methods. Like many things with welding, they are tools to keep in your arsenal. Some times one method will work better than another one will. The biggest thing I find is that it helps remove some of the frustration factor from guys who are trying to learn. One other "trick" is to take a piece of filler and practice feeding filler thru your hands until you get the process down until it's second nature. I often suggest students take home a length of filler and practice feeding filler thru their hands with their tig gloves on while watching tv. It's simply a question of repetition and something you need to do without thinking about it. Being distracted by what's on the tube isn't al that different than watching the puddle while welding. If you have to think about adding filler, then you can't concentrate on all the other variables that you need to control while doing tig..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWThe only down side to sliding the filler is that it will some times feel like it wants to stick to the base material. Then it's tough to get the filler to feed smoothly and you have to just hold the filler slightly off the plate. I find that if students can keep the filler in contact with the plate, it helps dampen out some of the "wobble" that they have, especially when they are new and are trying to feed a long piece of wire since they haven't yet learned to feed the filler thru their fingers so they can work with a shorter piece.Yes it helps keep guys from touching the tungsten if you use those methods. Like many things with welding, they are tools to keep in your arsenal. Some times one method will work better than another one will. The biggest thing I find is that it helps remove some of the frustration factor from guys who are trying to learn. One other "trick" is to take a piece of filler and practice feeding filler thru your hands until you get the process down until it's second nature. I often suggest students take home a length of filler and practice feeding filler thru their hands with their tig gloves on while watching tv. It's simply a question of repetition and something you need to do without thinking about it. Being distracted by what's on the tube isn't al that different than watching the puddle while welding. If you have to think about adding filler, then you can't concentrate on all the other variables that you need to control while doing tig.
Reply:Originally Posted by emeraldbisonWhich welding school did you go to?Are there schools that teach just GMAW, or just TIG etc?  Also I strongly agree with your outlook on things. As soon as I get a new welder or fix this old one I got I'm gonna practice till the cows come home.