How do you..

admin

Get nice clean bevels?  Ive used a bench grinder, but the angles are not very consistent.Thanks
Reply:depends on what your doing..for beveling pipe? a lathe or belt sander is a good choice..flat stock?45 degree cutter in a bridgeport or any milling machine..when using a hand grinder sanding discs are easier to "control" than hardwheels...but with anything practice practice practice.. from grinding to welding its all seat time.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:one thing that you can do with a hand held grinder is lay flat on bevel or edge you are grinding and with minimal pressure grind with as much of the stone as possible donot dip the grinder. I can dot this easily with a 5 inch grinder.
Reply:As mentioned above a small hand grinder works well but if you are talking about beveling on thick material I torch or plasma cut my bevel then smooth it out with either 5" sanding discs or a flp disc, but as mentioned by Zap, practice, practice practice......._________________Chris
Reply:Got it, I dont have a lathe or so Ive been grinding away, Ill try the cut method out and see how I do, try making a jig to hold the torch at 45 or 60 deg.  Thanks fellas!
Reply:Originally Posted by DoolittleGot it, I dont have a lathe or so Ive been grinding away, Ill try the cut method out and see how I do, try making a jig to hold the torch at 45 or 60 deg.  Thanks fellas!
Reply:One thing you can do until you get comfortable cutting free hand is to take an angle with equal legs an place it legs down and lay the torch against the angle....._________________Chris
Reply:All factory pipe comes with 37-1/2* bevels. Most people believe that you need to bevel at a 45* angle, which is a big misconception. Making a bevel at a 45* angle will take lots more grinding and welding to make, than needed.Rule of thumb that I was told about, many years ago, when first starting out welding pipe, and I have used many times to gage my welds is; Depending on size (diameter) and wall thickness (schedule) of pipe. The finished weld shouldn't be more than a dime wide and the thickness of a nickel high.I know it sounds like that would make a small weld, but a 12" sch. 40 pipe with a 37-1/2* bevel, properly faced land and 1/8" gap is real close, but just shy of being as wide as a dime.    Hope this helps.Last edited by Diverbill45; 12-25-2006 at 12:47 AM.
Reply:No one mentionined the angle iron trick for the 45* angle when using a plasma or oa setup.  I find it very usefull expecially when doing anything over 1/2".
Reply:Originally Posted by kdc3No one mentionined the angle iron trick for the 45* angle when using a plasma or oa setup.  I find it very usefull expecially when doing anything over 1/2".