trailer spindle question

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Hey all, I picked up a small utility trailer and one of the axle spindles needs to be replaced.  My questions is, how do you remove the existing spindle from the axle?  Do you just grind the welds and work it out?  Cut the thing off with a chop saw, then somehow pull the remaining spindle shaft out of the axle?   I have never tried to replace a spindle, so figured I would see if I could get the old one off, before I made the decision to replace the spindle only, or the entire axle.   I have searched here and google for the last 3 or 4 hours and can't find a single post, picture, video etc of how it is done.  I just keep reading "cut it off"Brew
Reply:With a small utility type trailer it's usually best to replace the complete axle. I assume a frozen bearing caused the problem?SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:you might check the Dexter website and see if they recomend something.  I think replacing the axle right,Dan  D.Manipulator Of Metal
Reply:Originally Posted by SlobWith a small utility type trailer it's usually best to replace the complete axle. I assume a frozen bearing caused the problem?
Reply:Spindles for small straight axles typically have a 3-4 inch section that slips into the axle tube and then is welded at the end of the tube.  A shallow cut can be made around the tube just behind the weld and the spindle can be pulled out.
Reply:Thanks, that makes sense.  Once I get the axle off the trailer, I will give it a shot.
Reply:I've also seen a lot of them have a 3/4" hole bored into the axle tube sidewalls which when the spindle is inserted, the holes being welded shut binding the spindle stub end to the axle tube. A one inch hole saw will usually remove this welding after boring through the center with a 1/4" twist drill, and a zip wheel will remove the weld at the end of the axle tube allowing the spindle stub to be removed.It's the liability exposure that precluded doing it myself and I'd hate to wind up in the "trailer fail" thread.....SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:I knew many had the holes in a little from the end, but I didn't realize it was a 3/4" typically.   I will see what I find, right now the u-bolts are soaking in lube, my 1000 ft/lb impact wouldn't budge them yesterday.
Reply:Originally Posted by tsbrewersI knew many had the holes in a little from the end, but I didn't realize it was a 3/4" typically.   I will see what I find, right now the u-bolts are soaking in lube, my 1000 ft/lb impact wouldn't budge them yesterday.
Reply:I do always figure new u-bolts on anything like this, so I could just take a grinder to them if needed too.  It was our anniversary yesterday, so I didn't get a whole lot of time to work on it.  I just grabbed my impact and thought maybe I could buzz them off.   I sprayed lube on them a few times over the course of the day, so will try the impact this morning and if that doesn't work, just cut them off.
Reply:I'm surprised you have that much damage to a solid spindle without damaging the lighter tubing it was installed into. Make sure you inspect the rest of the unit very closely for cracks and bends. How I would repair it would depend on the intended use. If it's just for light hauling around the yard, I wouldn't think twice about welding in another spindle, but if there's a chance it could be going down highways at 70mph with a load, you should really be considering a new axle. When removing old spindles etc. I like to use a small 4" hummer disc cut off wheel in my die grinder to cut the weld. It's slower than the cutting torch, but leaves a nice neat cut to weld too, and doesn't put a lot of heat into the surrounding metal. If those Ubolts have been subject to that much torque and abuse over time, I would also replace them.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Originally Posted by tsbrewersI picked up the trailer from a salvage auction, and it looks to me like it was jackknifed.  One wheel was bent way in, and the spindle looks like a banana.  The idea of replacing a $30 spindle is very appealing, instead of a $200 axle.  My thought was to try and see if I could remove the spindle first, then if that doesn't work, move on to a new axle.  I am really trying to watch the budget on this one.
Reply:Ya, it is a snowball thing though.   I do need one spindle and one hub.  My current hubs are 5x5.   I have yet to find an exact match for a spindle only replacement, and if I go the new axle route, I believe I will need two new hubs too for the new axle.  So new axle, 2 new hubs in 5x5 (hard to find) is probably going to be $150, for $200 I can get a kit with everything including springs.   Now, if I go that route, it is still tough to find 5x5 hubs included, and I could go with 5x4.5 hubs, since those are much easier to find wheels for.   But then of course I would need new wheels and tires in the 5x4.5.   So this very quickly could get to be $400 to do it "right"Anyway, since I am trying to not get carried away (yet) I am going to search for a new spindle and matching hub in the 5x5 size.  I got the axle off, and the old spindle off without much problem.  Now just need to scour the net for replacements.  I do not know what brand of trailer it is either, I can not find a tag anywhere.   So going directly to them is out.
Reply:I hear you - repairs can get out of hand sometimes.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Once you start repairing axles with non standard hubs, bearings etc it quickly becomes cheaper to buy new. An entire new assembly with hubs won't be much more than $125. You don't have to stick to that hub size, a hub, wheel and tire may be cheaper.  Lookup dexter, rockwell international, century wheel. I'm not sure whats in your area.  Even tires are cheaper already mounted onto rims.  I don't know how I would repair what was pictured and guarantee alignment.  Future premature tire wear may cost more than a new axle in the long run if it is out of alignment.Last edited by blackbart; 08-10-2014 at 02:44 PM.
Reply:It doesn't look that bad,  a little heat ,a big hammer and it'll be as good as new!
Reply:Is that remaining tube hollow, or is there a stub still in it?  If it's hollow what is the exact ID? If there is a stub in it, can it be driven in further?
Reply:it is hollow, and there is no stub.  I found a spindle from etrailer and ordered it today.   the new spindle has a stub that slides in to the tube a ways 3"?, so it should theoretically be easy to align and weld it up.   If my only choice was a spindle like the factory one (no stub in axle) I wouldn't have even considered it.  I would have gone new.   But with the stub it should be ok and I will probably add a few plug welds in too.  Originally Posted by BrianCIt doesn't look that bad,  a little heat ,a big hammer and it'll be as good as new!
Reply:Your repair should work. The simplest way to assure alignment is clamping the spindles with angle iron. You could also mount the hub, wheel&tire and line it up well before tacking it. My guess is you would want  " toe in " measurement to be from zero to 1/8".  I would just match the up and down angle using a level on a level floor.
Reply:Although it may not look it, there is a bend somewhere else. Many axles don't have toe in, but do have camber.  It'll be fine until you weld it in and start going down the road and you put new tires on every 150 miles.  I can get a new 3500 lb axle on springs for $82 locally (4x5 or 5x5).  You'll only pay that if you go to a box store. 4x5 is standard with most mfg'rs, with 5x5 harder to find but for those people that like the brand that 5x5's fit.  A trip to the junk yard will get you new wheels if a 4x5 is a problem and the only thing you can find.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:i agree a new axle would be cheaper and a much better repair.  Just seemed like he didn't want that option.
Reply:When I said "you'll only pay that"... I meant 200.00 dollars.  If you shop around there's bound to be a trailer supplier or manufacturer in MN that may not be too far away.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:I did find this axle, I think it will work with my hubs, if the spindle option doesn't work out, I might give this one a try.http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6732_200596732I am just wondering about the spring mounting.  My axle mounts above the springs, they said this axle mounts below, so I am not sure.  I have a few local trailer places I can try too.
Reply:You cut the spring perch from the axle and either remount it where needed, or replace it with new. They are not an expensive part.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:Be careful buying bare axles if you want them to match your hubs. There a gazillion different bearing combinations out there that may or may not be machined at the right places for length within in the hub despite being the right inside and outside diameters. Pay attention to where it's machined as well as the diameters.  There is also different combinations for low speed ag applications as opposed to the high speed stuff. I still think a complete axle with new hubs/bearings is going to be the best solution in the long term if this is for highway use. Even the $400 option with new wheels and tires isn't all that bad considering the use you'll get out of the tires as opposed to what you have already.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLesI realize that would be the best way.  I would love to get a new axle, spindles, nice aluminum wheels, tires, etc. but it isn't in the cards right now.   If my "cheap fix" doesn't work, and I  shred tires or something, i will have to look at different options.   Honestly, if the fees of this auction didn't blind side me, I would probably consider converting to a tandem axle with everything new, but the fees were almost double the purchase price, so right now i need to keep it simple.
Reply:Get it all sorted out yet?250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Pretty much,  It is in the shop upside down right now and I am sandblasting/painting, new wiring, etc. to it, but the axle is all together and everything should work.  I am thinking some day of converting it to a tandem axle since it is a heavier duty, 6x12, but only a single axle right now.  I think it was a landscaping trailer in it's previous life.  I added a couple cross members, gussets in the corners, and re-did the entire tongue.  Slightly beefier, slightly longer, new coupler, etc.   It should be a nice trailer when I am done.  Still pissed about how much the fees were from the auction were Brew
Reply:Live and learn. At least you've got a trailer...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Originally Posted by whtbaronLive and learn. At least you've got a trailer...
Reply:LOL!It always comes out that way!No matter how good the Deal seems at the time, it always cost more in the end!
Reply:get your spindles and a tube that will work with the spindles and weld up your own axel assemble.
Reply:I repaired an old axle with a broken spindle and missing hub due to a wreck my dad had with his trailer. For a little more than what I paid for the new spindle and hub I could've had a new axle for my travel trailer. But I figured saving a bit of money was a good thing as the travel trailer doesn't get pulled that often.  I just have to make sure I have the right wheels and tires for spares as one side "the new hub" takes a Buick/Ford Pattern and the other side "old Hub" takes a Chevy pattern. lol It has mismatched wheels. I'll probably get a new hub for the other side later though so I can have matching wheels. But for now it's okay. The axle I repaired and put under my vintage travel trailer was on my dad's car trailer.Chad
Reply:I have repaired a bunch of trailers in similar condition, and can near guarantee you have a tire alignment issue after having the spindle bent like that. It is hard to detect, due to camber in the tube though. Just keep a close eye on your tires when you start pulling it. You can do the chalk trick to tell you how much tread, and what part of the tread is on the roadway. You can also pull it through a little water and watch the tracks to see what part of the print it leaves on the ground. Be sure to mount some bare rims while it is upside down, and do some good measuring between the to make sure you are parallel front and back, and give you some idea how much camber is in the axle.